Once-in-a-lifetime trips

In the Namibian wilderness, among cheetahs and sea gems

Recalibrating our gaze on the essential. The power of light, the horizon carved between sky and bush, wild animals rescued from poaching and few human traces.

by Barbara Sgarzi

La riserva dello Zannier Omaanda Lodge, poco lontano da Windhoek. (© pierre mouton)

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

It is a constant, almost physical presence that imposes discipline: here nothing can be superfluous, because everything is laid bare. It is a country that works by subtraction, reduces to the essential and forces one to slow down. The lines are sharp, the horizons absolute. It is not an accommodating aesthetic, but an almost severe language that demands attention.

Qui, dopo il safari, ci si ferma ad ammirare il tramonto e si cena con i tavoli apparecchiati nel bush. (© BARBARA SGARZI)

Where TREES MAKE STONE

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We understand this as we move towards the first date. Travelling, here, means entering a world in which displacement is also part of the experience. Distances are never neutral: they are crossed slowly, often from above, and serve to recalibrate the gaze. As in the flight that takes us to the dune of Sossusvlei, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, with its 50,000 square kilometres, one of the largest conservation areas in the world, an infinite theory of ochre to red shifting dunes, which break off to meet the Atlantic Ocean. Nothing is by chance: the word Namib means vast in the local language. From the Windhoek airport, the same one where we landed on arrival, we fly for about an hour over an expanse of velvety-looking red earth, barely etched by the white of the roads and runways and interrupted at times by piles of dark rocks, which we seem to be touching, so close they are to the aircraft's nacelle; rare bushes, even rarer trees. The absence of human traces hints at the country's population density, one of the lowest in the world: two million people scattered over an area of 825 thousand square kilometres, about three times the size of Italia. From up there, the desert seems motionless, but all it takes to land is for everything to become unstable, yielding, alive again. Like the sudden curving slopes that rise up to 300 metres in the immense ochre sand dunes of Sossusvlei, one of the most astonishing spectacles in the world, even for those who are used to deserts. After the flight, it takes an hour by jeep to get there, with the light cutting the landscape in half - the red of the earth, the blue of the sky - to begin the silent climb up the dune called 45, like the temperature of the air when we get there, tempered however by a dry wind that brings relief. At the top, the silence is unreal: a forest of black petrified trees emerges from an ancient dried-up salt marsh, its jagged bottom and cracks glistening in the sun. All around, an ocean of waves of red sand as far as the eye can see restores at least part of the size of the Namib Desert, the oldest in the world, with an estimated age of 55 88 million years. No one speaks: to this sight of red and blue lines of sky intersecting with the black of logs turned to stone, there is really nothing to add.

TERRA OF CREATIVE INSPIRATION

It is in this radical light that Namibia's link with the Parisian haute joaillerie maison Messika is grafted, which takes us on a journey of discovery to celebrate twenty years following the thread of another very pure light, that of diamonds. "Namibia has a very pure, minimalist aesthetic. It is nature to the nth power, primal force, inspiring,' sums up Valérie Messika, hostess together with her brothers Ilan and Ben. Founded in Paris in 2005 by Valérie, artistic director, with her father André Messika, historic diamond dealer, representing its technical and commercial memory, the maison is today one of the most recognisable names in contemporary jewellery. Over ninety boutiques worldwide, a head office in Paris, a perfectly organised family structure. And a clear identity: essential frames, protagonist stones, an idea of luxury that favours movement and precision over ornamentation, as in the now iconic Move collection. Of a natural elegance, cosmopolitan like the whole family and genuinely passionate about these landscapes, Valérie is also luminous, constantly on the move. "Namibia enters my collections not in a figurative form, but as an atmosphere of light, pure essence. I have collected colours, shades, animal forms, which I do not draw precisely, but evoke. I work by subtraction, as if I wanted to distil this land'. As we chat, the quiet luxury of the Zannier Omaanda Lodge is an oasis of calm. Linear architecture, raw materials, low volumes that seem to rise out of the earth and an obsessive attention to detail, which can be found in the raw materials, the punctual but friendly service and the spacious rooms with windows wide open to the bush, where light floods in and the vintage bathtub gives off My Africa style vibes. And it's easy to see animals passing by just a stone's throw from the glass.

Even closer we see them during the sunset safari. In the Omaanda nature reserve, lionesses, zebras, giraffes, elephants and rhinoceroses appear almost suddenly without choreography, chase or excessive emphasis. It is the landscape that decides the distance, and not the desire to see everything, right away. Images that are imprinted in the memory, to be recalled during dinner in the bush, based on typical South African dishes and wines, where at the end there is never a lack of a glass of Amarula, the creamy liqueur produced by the iconic tree of southern Africa, that Marula also called the elephant tree. If the morning light defines the contours and that of the afternoon softens them, the evening dissolves them. At sunset, the bush changes rhythm and an open-air dinner becomes a game of chiaroscuro: low flames, long shadows, essential tables dressed all in white. After sunset and before the stars, the sky returns to an almost electric, infinite, breathtaking blue.

An ECOSYSTEM TO PROTECT

Nature is apparently so strong, imposing itself on the landscape. And at the same time fragile and in need of protection. "We celebrate every day that passes without poaching incidents. But, in order to do so, we need constant monitoring,' begins Rudie van Vuuren, founder with his wife Marlice of the Na'ankuse Foundation, of which he is director. He warns that he is ready to answer every question except the one about the number of white rhinos living in the reserve; top secret, in order to protect them. In his moving account, he traces the stages of what is now a solid conservation reality in Namibia. Founded around a clinic - van Vuuren, a doctor, felt strongly the need to give the San population, the Bushmen, an indigenous people of the Kalahari who live between South Africa, Namibia and Botswana, free medical care - it has become over the years a centre for the recovery and care of animals injured or orphaned by poaching. Today it has three nature reserves, a bush lodge, a hotel in town and a school for the children of employees and volunteers. Thanks also to donations from numerous supporters around the world, including Angelina Jolie, who was so in love with Namibia that she gave birth to her daughter Shiloh here; one of the three Wildlife Sanctuaries in Na'ankuse now bears her name.

Bolt, uno dei due giovani ghepardi salvati nel 2016 a una settimana dalla nascita e ospitato, con il fratello Flash, dal Na’ankuse Foundation Wildlife Sanctuary, a un’ora circa dalla capitale namibiana. (© pierre mouton)

WALKING WITH GHEPARDS

It is difficult, on a trip like this, to choose a favourite activity. What is certain is that, in terms of emotions, few things come close to accompanying two cheetahs on their daily walk in the bush. Before we know it, a gate opens and we find ourselves following, holding our breath, Bolt and Flash, two young male guests of the reserve. Far from being domesticated, of course, but sufficiently accustomed to the presence of man to indulge in our adoring glances as they trot, play, and climb a Namibian acacia tree, their feline elegance and nonchalance not even remotely affected by a forest of mobile phones clicking away. "Because of man they have been orphaned, unable to receive from their mother the teachings to survive in the wild," explains our guide, as we take turns crouching for a photo next to these wonders, close enough to hear their purr. With these images in our eyes, we ski Namibia, which has taught us to look at its light. And now it will be hard to stop doing so.

Collier Incandescence con diamante giallo da 20 carati, dalla collezione Terres d’Instinct di alta gioielleria disegnata da Valérie Messika e ispirata ai paesaggi namibiani. (© Yoann & Marco)

SEA GEMS

Gifts that come from the water. Namibian diamonds are not mined from the earth, but recovered from the sea by dredging the sand to a depth of 140 metres. Of alluvial origin, they are transported by the Orange River to the ocean and shaped for thousands of years by the currents: "Only the most resistant ones survive, and it is this natural selection that determines their exceptional quality, the least waste, the best colour," explains Ilan Messika who, following in his father's footsteps, works in the selection and trade of gems and also selects the stones for his sister Valérie's creations. Ethical diamonds, essential in the country's development. The Namibia Diamond Trading Company (Ndtc), a joint venture between the Namibian government and the De Beers group, supervises and values local stones. In the Windhoek office we follow their journey, after showing shoes in and out, to check that a fallen stone has not slipped into the soles. The gems then go to the André Messika Diamonds cutting and polishing workshop. If the territory tells the story of the rough light, the cutting, in a high-tech centre, shows its transformation. According to Sarine protocol, each stone is scanned to become a digital fingerprint, guaranteeing provenance, quality and complete traceability, from rough to polished diamond. Using 3D mapping, craftsmen plan the optimal cut, preserving the purity and beauty of each stone. In parallel, the environmental impact of the process, in particular the carbon footprint, is measured. In the final stages, gemologists come into play, who identify, evaluate and certify each stone before it is sent to Gia (Gemological Institute of America), where its quality is assessed according to the famous 4Cs: Carat, Colour, Clarity and Cut. Equally important is the social impact: gender equality has almost been achieved in the workshop; 95 per cent of those who work there are Namibian and employees hold 25 per cent of the shares. Before visiting, the rudiments of sign language, Lis, are taught. At the behest of André Messika, about half of the workers are disabled, often hearing impaired, and a Lis interpreter has been hired to facilitate communication.

Dettaglio dal tavolo di selezione, la prima scrematura dei diamanti prima dell’invio al laboratorio ANDRÉ MESSIKA DIAMONDS. (© pierre mouton)

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