Jewellery withstands challenges and uncertainty thanks to its intrinsic value

Civilizations without jewels have never existed: this is the title of the exhibition dedicated to Andrea Branzi that will open next week, on 18 December to be exact, in the spaces of 10 Corso Como, in Milan. 'Every civilisation known to man is linked to the development of jewellery', we could translate, losing the effectiveness of the English. Or again: 'Never have civilisations existed without jewellery'. A strong statement, but one that many art historians and lovers of ancient jewellery and beyond might agree with. It should come as no surprise that the statement is linked to the creative universe of Branzi, who passed away in October 2023 at the age of 84, and who was a master in many arts and crafts, from architecture to design and jewellery.

Some might say, looking at the ongoing conflicts on the planet and the contradictions in our societies, that jewellery reflects a civilisation in involution, rather than evolution, as would be desirable. But one can turn the question around and see the vitality of the world of jewellery as a solitary bright spot, from which to start again in order to regain a positive outlook on the world. As we recount in this Special, the world of jewellery, particularly in Italy, is - yes, it is - in perpetual evolution, driven by the creativity of designers, the passion of entrepreneurs and the interest of the end public, which recognises in jewellery an intrinsic - almost eternal - value that it is hard to see in other personal goods, luxury and otherwise, according to 2024 sales figures of other categories and the prospects for 2025.

Hence the cautious optimism with which we close the year and look to the future, as demonstrated by the testimonials you will find in these pages and the account of strategies and investments. Alongside the external unknowns - starting with the slowdown of the Chinese market, until 2023 the first and most promising market for personal luxury goods - there are those internal to the sector: as for many other sectors, in order to continue to grow and evolve, it is necessary to invest in the training of young people. Compared to other branches of the fashion industry, jewellery has an advantage because over the years it has lost less appeal and attractiveness than other craft professions. Then there is sustainability, which was the focus of the annual Cibjo congress, about which Laura La Posta and Rita Fatiguso report in detail on page 8, just back from the big event in Shanghai.

Other positive signals come from historic maisons, Italian and otherwise, which until now were not involved in jewellery, but rather concentrated on the core business of clothing and accessories, however high-end. Over the past few months, Loro Piana and Bottega Veneta have presented their first jewellery collections (see the article on page 14) and - just three days ago, Monday 9 December - Jil Sander, which belongs to the Otb group founded by Renzo Rosso, launched its first fine jewellery line, on the occasion of the opening of the brand's largest flagship store in the world, in Ginza, Tokyo's most exclusive district. Prada had made a similar choice two years ago and at the beginning of December presented a further extension of the range, characterised - the first case in the world of luxury - by the use of recycled and certified gold, a project that is part of the broader environmental and social sustainability strategy of the brand and the group of the same name led by Miuccia Prada, Patrizio Bertelli and Andrea Guerra.

Good news also from the retail sector: the Damiani group has signed an agreement with the Damiano Parati company (see Il Sole 24 Ore of 6 December) that will allow ten boutiques, including single-brand and multi-brand, to join the Rocca network (the Damiani family's group brand): the new Rocca shops will be located in some of the best-known and most important places in central Italy, from Florence to Perugia, passing through Siena and Arezzo and adding a new shop window in Porto Cervo.