Luxury

4 billion partnership between Kering and L'Oréal in beauty

The company led by Nicolas Hieronimus takes over Maison Creed and obtains the licences for the luxury group's beauty and fragrance products

Luca de Meo, amministratore delegato  del gruppo francese del lusso Kering, tiene un discorso durante un'assemblea straordinaria degli azionisti. REUTERS/Tom Nicholson/File Photo

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

The new CEO of Kering is pursuing this goal through a concrete strategy, the cornerstone of which is the agreement signed on Sunday with L'Oreal. The binding agreement sanctions the start of a long-term collaboration in the luxury beauty and wellness sector, which includes the acquisition by L'Oréal of the Maison Creed, as well as the licensing of beauty and fragrance products of the main maisons of the Kering group for 50 years and the creation of an exclusive joint venture to explore business opportunities in the wellness and longevity sector. All this for a revenue for the French luxury group of about 4 billion, which will be paid in cash at the closing of the operation, expected in the first half of next year.

A move that brings decisive relief to Kering's coffers, which had net debt of €9.5 billion as of June 30. In the absence of further divestments, Mediobanca analysts estimate that leverage (the ratio of net debt to Ebitda) could reach 3.5 times (excluding IFRS 16) by December 2025. "Based on the agreed valuation, leverage is expected to fall to 1.5 times on a pro-forma basis by year-end. As of December 2026, pro-forma leverage is expected to fall to 1 times, compared to 2.4 times currently," write Mediobanca.

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L’operazione ha un’importante valenza strategica in quanto rappresenta un passo avanti nella riduzione del debito e nella razionalizzazione del gruppo, coerentemente con gli obiettivi espressi dal nuovo ceo al suo insediamento il mese scorso, scrivono gli analisti di Equita, aggiungendo poi. «Inoltre, l’accordo aumenta la visibilità sullo sviluppo delle licenze Beauty per i marchi del gruppo considerato il forte track record di L’Oréal, che tra l’alto gestisce già con successo per il gruppo la licenza perpetua del beauty di Saint Larent». A riguardo nella nota di Kering si legge: «L’accordo rappresenta una nuova fase della collaborazione tra due leader globali dai punti di forza complementari: da un lato, l’expertise di Kering nella gestione di brand iconici del lusso; dall’altro, la leadership mondiale di L’Oréal nel settore della cosmetica. Questa sinergia punta ad accelerare la crescita e a generare valore in categorie ad alt

There was a positive reaction on the Paris Stock Exchange, where Kering closed trading up 4.92% and L'Orèal up 1.2%.

The terms of the understanding

In detail, under the terms of the deal, Kering, which was assisted in the deal by advisors Centerview and Evercore, will have the right to divest L'Oréal Kering Beauté, including the Maison Creed, to L'Oréal. Integrated into the L'Oréal Luxe division, Creed, founded in 1760, will be able to further enhance its global expansion, targeting both female and male customers, the note said.

"This strategic alliance," comments Luca de Meo, "represents a decisive step for Kering. By joining forces with the global beauty leader, we will be able to accelerate the development of the fragrance and cosmetics lines of our main maisons, enabling them to acquire adequate scale and unleash their full potential, as has already been the case for Yves Saint Laurent Beauté under L'Oréal. Together we will explore new frontiers in well-being, combining L'Oréal's unique expertise with our ability to generate desirability in luxury. This partnership allows us to focus on what really sets us apart: the creative strength and attractiveness of our maisons.

The agreement also provides for the granting to L'Oréal, assisted in the transaction by Rothschild, of exclusive 50-year licences for the creation, development and distribution of Gucci branded fragrances and beauty products, effective upon the expiration of the current licence agreement with Coty, in accordance with Kering's contractual obligations. Similar licences will also be granted for the Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga brands, effective upon closing of the transaction. L'Oréal will pay royalties to Kering for the use of the licensed brands.

From an income statement perspective, Mediobanca analysts note: "The impact on eps (earnings per share) should be limited. Although Kering Beauté is estimated to contribute a mid-single-digit percentage to the group's Ebit, the use of the proceeds to reduce gross debt should limit the negative effect on earnings to the low single-digit range. In addition, the possibility of accelerating growth in the beauty segment for the licensed brands represents a potential positive contribution in the medium term," Mediobanca concludes. In addition, the transaction would also "improve Kering's return on capital. Kering Beauté's current pre-tax Roce is estimated to be a mid-single-digit percentage, well below the medium-term potential of the group's core business.

The L'Oreal side operation

L’Oréal acquisisce un business che nel 2024 ha generato ricavi per €323 milioni, con un margine operativo stimato intorno al 40%, secondo le stime del team Luxury. Guardando al 2025, le previsioni di Carole Madjo, analista di Barclays, indicano un fatturato di €350 milioni e un contributo all’EBIT di circa €140 milioni. Non sono stati forniti dettagli sul livello di indebitamento della divisione. «Sulla base di queste stime per il 2025 prosegue la nota di Barclays - i multipli impliciti sono pari a 11,4 volte il rapporto enterprise value/ricavi e 28,6 volte enterprise value/Ebit, evidenziando un’operazione premium ma in linea con l’appeal strategico dell’asset». Kering, dal canto suo, aveva acquisito Creed nel 2023 per circa 3,5 miliardi, quando il marchio registrava vendite superiori a 250 milioni e un Ebitda stimato intorno a 150 milioni.

 «Sono entusiasta di avviare questa alleanza strategica di lungo termine con uno dei gruppi del lusso più prestigiosi, creativi e visionari al mondo. Questo accordo consolida ulteriormente la nostra posizione di leader mondiale nel settore del beauty di lusso e ci consente di esplorare nuove opportunità nel campo del benessere. L’integrazione di brand straordinari come Creed, Gucci, Bottega Veneta e Balenciaga rafforza il nostro portafoglio e amplia significativamente la nostra presenza in segmenti dinamici e ad alto potenziale del beauty di lusso» sottolinea Nicolas Hieronimus, ceo del gruppo L’Oréal. Per garantire l’allineamento strategico tra i marchi del gruppo Kering e L’Oréal, sarà istituito un comitato congiunto incaricato di monitorare i progressi della partnership

What will be the financial impact on L'Oréal's accounts? Barclays' estimates indicate "an expected free cash flow for 2025 of around €6.7 billion (Bloomberg consensus: €6.9 billion), confirming the group's significant self-financing capacity. However, the two acquisitions made at the beginning of the year, namely Medik8 and Color Wow, which L'Oréal has quantified as a total commitment of around €2.3 billion, as confirmed in its first half 2025 results, must also be considered. These transactions will result in a reduction in financial income, with a consequent increase in net interest costs. For 2025, in our current model, we assume an underlying effective tax rate of 24%."

Partnership in Luxury Wellness

In addition to the beauty segment, the two companies will also join forces in the field of luxury wellness, through a joint venture (50/50) aimed at developing innovative experiences and services that combine L'Oréal's capacity for innovation with Kering's in-depth knowledge of the luxury customer.

The agreement is subject to the usual closing conditions, including regulatory approvals and compliance with Kering's obligations under French labour law.

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