Luxury

Kering beats market estimates and runs on the stock market

In Paris, shares gained over 11% driven by 2025 figures that saw revenues of EUR 14.7 billion and a positive outlook for 2026

by Monica D'Ascenzo

FILE PHOTO: People stand in front of a Gucci store in Milan, Italy, September 24, 2025. REUTERS/Yara Nardi/File Photo

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Kering 2025 results beat market estimates and boosted buying on the stock and the entire luxury segment. The French luxury group reported revenues of €14.7 billion (down 13% at current rates, down 10% on a comparable basis) for the full year 2025 with direct sales (retail, including e-commerce), equal to 76% of total sales, down -11% on a comparable basis and indirect sales (wholesale), equal to 24% of total sales, down -7% on a comparable basis. In the fourth quarter alone, sales amounted to 3.9 billion, down 9% at current rates and 3% on a comparable basis. In terms of profitability, current operating profit amounted to 1.6 billion (-33% on a like-for-like basis), representing 11.1% of sales.

In Paris, the share price jumped to the upside and by mid-morning was gaining just over 11% after having risen more than 14%. The positive news is affecting the entire European luxury sector. In particular, Hermès, which will release its 2025 figures on Thursday 12 February, gained over 2%.

Loading...

"The 2025 performance does not reflect the Group's true potential. In the second half of the year, we have taken decisive steps: through strengthening our financial structure, containing costs, and making strategic choices that lay the foundations for our next chapter. On 16 April, during the Capital Markets Day, we will present a clear roadmap to relaunch growth, with clearly defined strategies for each Maison, a more effective organisation and strict financial discipline. Now, at the beginning of the year, all teams are committed to helping create a leaner and faster group, improving brand positioning and sales, re-establishing margins, and strengthening cash generation to ensure sustainable, long-term value creation," comments Luca de Meo, CEO of Kering.

Kering's number one, during the conference call with analysts, expressed optimism and stated that the group's brands will perform better in the current year. Gucci included: "There are a lot of positive signs, also as far as Gucci is concerned, because the first intervention with 'La Famiglia' (the collection presented last September, ed.) was actually quite successful," he said, pointing out that for now it still represents a relatively limited part of the offer.

"I'd like to remind everyone that Demna's first fashion show will be held on 27 February: we haven't seen anything yet," he stressed, asserting that the Gucci team is working hard, with an awareness of where the brand is today and where it should be, and they are aware of the need to develop a collection that covers all the categories that are fundamental to the business.

"That is why I am quite confident, indeed very optimistic," De Meo said, recalling, however, that the luxury sector is experiencing an under-dynamic period. "In 2026 we will see growth. We will also see an improvement in margins across all brands. This is, in essence, the situation from management's point of view,' he concluded.

The geography of revenues

At the end of December 2025, the group had a total of 1,719 directly operated shops. In the geographical breakdown of sales, Western Europe was worth 30%, Asia Pacific 29%, North America 24%, Japan 8% and the rest of the world 9%.

Revenue per maison

The year-on-year decline in revenues for Gucci remained heavy: 2025 sales were €6 billion, down 22% at current rates and -19% on a comparable basis. In the fourth quarter, sales were 1.622 billion, down -16% at current rates and -10% on a comparable basis. Current operating profit was EUR 966 million, accounting for 16.1% of sales.

Saint Laurent reported sales of 2.6 billion, down 8% at current rates and 6% on a comparable basis. Sales for the fourth quarter of 2025 stood at 735 million (-5% at current rates, unchanged on a comparable basis). For the full year, current operating profit was EUR 529 million, representing 20% of sales.

Bottega Veneta's sales were stable at current rates (+3% at constant rates) at 1.7 billion for the full year, while in the fourth quarter alone they were 467 million (-3% at current rates, +3% on a comparable basis). Current operating profit 2025 was EUR 267 million, accounting for 15.6% of sales.

In 2025, the group's other brands achieved sales of 2.9 billion (-10% at current rates and -6% on a comparable basis), while in the fourth quarter alone, sales of Balenciaga were 789 million (-4 at current rates, +3% on a comparable basis). In detail, infourth quarter Balenciaga's retail sales turned positive again, driven by leather goods, while Alexander McQueen is continuing its restructuring path. Brioni maintained strong momentum. The jewellery houses recorded dynamic expansion: Boucheron achieved double-digit growth, Pomellato maintained a steady trajectory, DoDo accelerated and Qeelin continued to show a solid path. The area's recurring operating result in 2025 was negative EUR -112 million.

Kering Eyewear and Corporate

In 2025, Kering Eyewear sales were 1.6 billion, up +1% at current rates and +3% on a comparable basis. Kering Eyewear's recurring operating profit was 252 million, representing 15.8% of sales.

Estimates 2026

Kering enters 2026 with a clear objective: to return to growth and improve margins, reads the group's note. "In a still uncertain macroeconomic environment, the group puts operational excellence at the centre, supporting each Maison in implementing more incisive and sustainable strategies, as well as the operational support needed to accelerate the development path."

At the Capital Markets Day on 16 April 2026, the roadmap that will guide the next phase of Kering's transformation will be detailed. "The 2025 performance does not reflect the Group's true potential. In the second half of the year, we took decisive actions, strengthening the balance sheet, reducing costs and making strategic choices that lay the foundations for our near future. On 16 April, during our Capital Markets Day, we will present a clear roadmap to increase the desirability of our Luxury Houses and revive growth, with clearly defined brand strategies, a more effective organisation and sound financial discipline. Going into 2026, the entire team is fully committed to building a leaner and faster Group that improves brand positioning and sales, rebuilding margins and strengthening cash generation to ensure long-term sustainable value creation," comments De Meo, who also announced new additions to the Group in the coming weeks.

"In the coming weeks you will see announcements of new entrants, also to fill roles that do not exist today, because we have to structure the organisation differently. We must focus more on the 'upstream' part of the business: production, purchasing, logistics, product development. In these areas, it is essential to have top management figures with different experiences, capable of bringing a new perspective to the sector and to our organisation,' the manager revealed on the conference call, adding: 'I am not looking for executives at competitors, also because there are often one-year 'garden leave' periods and I don't have time to waste: I need people who are immediately operational'. In addition, he recalled that there is already 'quality and competence of people' within Kering. And so in the last cycle many promotions took place internally. 'We have people with great potential, who know what they are talking about'. In any case, the manager, who comes from the world of cars, stressed that 'one of the main opportunities is to integrate people from different paths, to complete the vision of a group that has been working in luxury for decades'.

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti