Luxury

Kering, first quarter revenues down 14% to 3.9 billion

The result is below analysts' estimates. All geographies declined, with China -25%.

by Mo.D.

FILE PHOTO: A model presents a creation by the Gucci Fall-Winter 2025/2026 collection during Fashion Week in Milan, Italy, February 25, 2025. REUTERS/STRINGER/File Photo

3' min read

3' min read

Results below analysts' estimates for Kering in the first quarter of 2025. The French luxury group reported revenues of EUR 3.9 billion, down 14% on both a reported and comparable basis. All geographies weighed on the result, but the largest decline was recorded in Asia. The Asia-Pacific region recorded a decline of 25%, in line with the negative trend in the last quarter of 2024. The other major regions also showed signs of a slowdown: Western Europe -13%, North America -13%, Japan -11%.

"As we had anticipated, Kering faced a difficult start to the year. In this context, we are entirely focused on implementing our plans to achieve our objectives and to strengthen the positioning of our Maisons in the different markets. We are intensifying our initiatives to address the challenges facing the industry, convinced that we will emerge stronger from this situation," comments François-Henri Pinault, Chairman and CEO, in a note released to the market.

Loading...

La geografia dei ricavi

Kering presentation

In Paris today, the share price rose 2.93% to €174.96 per share before the release of the quarterly report, in a positive session for the entire sector: Lvmh +4.35%, Hermès +2.25%, Burberry +5.36%, Moncler +1.19%, Salvatore Ferragamo +5.6%. The Kering share has fallen 25.6% since the start.

Sales channels

.

During the quarter, the group rationalised its retail network with the net closure of 25 shops, bringing the total number of directly operated shops to 1,788. Sales in the direct retail channel, the core of the group's strategy, were down 16% on a comparable basis. The wholesale and other revenue segment saw a decline of 9%. Specifically, wholesale sales of the group's brands fell 23% on a comparable basis, reflecting the strategy of strengthening distribution exclusivity. In contrast, Kering Eyewear and Kering Beauté grew by 2%, while royalties and other revenues increased by 11%.

The individual brands

.

Particularly notable was the drop in sales recorded by Gucci during the period: the brand posted a drop of 25% to 1.571 billion from 2.079 billion. Direct (retail) sales, which accounted for 91% of the total, contracted by 25% at comparable rates, against a backdrop of low shop traffic, continuing the progressive strengthening of the offer. Indirect (wholesale) sales decreased by 33% at comparable rates.

"Gucci's continuing products business continues to perform weakly," admitted Francesca Bellettini, deputy ceo of Kering, who pointed out during the conference call with analysts: "We don't have to wait until 2026 to see some of the first products from gucci's new designer, Demna. Bellettini added: 'We are putting pressure on suppliers to reduce Gucci's time to market'.

For Saint Laurent, revenues were down 9% to 679 million. Direct (retail) sales, which accounted for 78% of the total, declined by 8% at comparable rates, with growth in the Middle East and resilience in the US and European markets. Indirect (wholesale) sales contracted by 24%, continuing the rationalisation phase, while Royalties and Other recorded strong growth (+20% at comparable rates).

Against this trend Bottega Veneta posted +4% to 405 million. Direct (retail) sales, which accounted for 87% of the total, increased by + 7% (at comparable rates). All product categories recorded a positive result, with double-digit growth in Western Europe, North America and the Middle East. Indirect (wholesale) sales decreased by -13% (at comparable rates).

Sales of the other maisons amounted to €733 million in the first quarter (-11% at current and comparable rates). In detail, Balenciaga posted solid performance in the leather goods category, in a general context of low shop traffic; McQueen sales declined; Brioni confirmed its growth trajectory, particularly double-digit growth in its own shops, driven by North America and Western Europe. The jewellery houses continued their growth trajectory: Boucheron had a good quarter; Pomellato had an excellent quarter driven by new products in the Nudo line; Qeelin posted an exceptional quarter of growth.

The estimates for the rest of the year

.

"The quarter," the statement said, "highlights Kering's difficulties in coping with volatile demand in key markets, particularly in Asia. However, the group continues to focus on network rationalisation and more selective distribution to support the positioning of its luxury brands in an uncertain global environment."

During the conference call, cfo Armelle Poulou emphasised that the group also expects a double-digit decline for the second quarter of the year, but with a better result than in the first quarter. The second half of 2025, then, should be better than the first six months. At the moment, however, the cfo pointed out, there is little visibility on the future development of Chinese demand. 'We can hope for an improvement in the second half of the year in China if the stimulus measures and initiatives undertaken by the company bear fruit,' said Poulou.

Speaking instead of the overseas market, the cfo commented: 'We remain extremely cautious about the US market, there is high volatility.

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti