Technology, AI and shopping

E-commerce and the rule of three actions: search, seek, dream

Increasingly visual, increasingly emotional. Data in hand, Christophe Mille, head of Google's luxury segment, explains why luxury shopping has atypical rhythms.

by Barbara Sgarzi

Christophe Mille

5' min read

5' min read

A flash of desire captured on the smartphone display. Suspending for an instant the incessant flow of images, obtaining with a click the information on the object that has attracted priority attention and buying it in an instant; guided by technology, but on the wave of emotion. One of the countless alchemies offered to luxury connoisseurs is a universe of sophisticated search techniques fused with the potential of artificial intelligence. "Change has never been so fast, and it will never be so slow again," begins Christophe Mille, who holds the position of head of luxury vertical at the colossus Google and is a privileged observer of the dynamics of high-end consumption.

With more than 20 years of experience in strategic digital marketing, he has been at Google since 2011, where he long ago launched the BrandLab, a creative workshop to refine media strategies and the power of video content for business partners.

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"2024 saw the luxury market facing challenges and uncertainties; on the other hand, however, it was a crucial year for AI, with significant advances and many opportunities for brands," he says. And also for tools, such as Google's, that live at the intersection of search and purchase. "Searches are increasingly visual: those for images, made through Lens, are more than 20 billion a month and 1 in 4 expresses purchase intentions. In such a visual world, the 'Circle and Search' function, to get more information by highlighting an item or accessory in a photo, is one of the fastest ways to lead to a purchase," he explains.

It is not just an online phenomenon: according to a recent McKinsey report, web searches are increasingly influencing in-store purchases as well: '80 per cent of offline sales are actually digitally driven. Consumers are not only moving between platforms, they are fluently jumping between online and offline modes to gather information prior to purchase'. They look for accurate and timely, but never redundant, information: '66 per cent of Europeans have delayed or avoided making a decision when faced with too many options or too much information, while 63 per cent have abandoned the purchase altogether,' he points out. A number that absolutely must be taken into account.

What are the data that ignite desire when exploring a luxury object online? Those that make sensoriality and emotion vibrate in unison? According to Mille, technology must become ancillary, make the experience fluid and then disappear: the less you see, the better. "Luxury brands should focus on craftsmanship and values, create personalised experiences and know how to tell the story. Using the right tools; the one for storytelling, in Google's portfolio, still seems to be YouTube, which acts as a historical archive and also a bit of an antidote to the ephemeral frenzy of social media. The Panerai maison, for example, has published a video that in four minutes - an eternity, in the mad pace of other platforms - traces the innovations made in the art of watchmaking. Hermès focused on content highlighting the craftsmanship in its ateliers, Cartier used it to illuminate the centenary of the iconic Trinity ring, Fendi reknotted the threads of family history across generations. The most interesting aspect is that these videos do not age, they become timeless content that continues to inspire. Balenciaga's 2021 Simpsons story reached twenty-three million views and continues to attract millions of users each year. Versace's 2018 fashion show, the one that brought together all the supermodels of the 1990s, has reached six million users, and many in the last year alone. The video channel also proves to be an ideal stage for another rising trend: live content. Currently, 37 per cent of the time spent on YouTube in the fashion industry is dedicated to live. Chanel broadcast its fashion show in China, preceded by a preview by Wim Wenders, Louis Vuitton captured over 6 million clicks with its latest fashion show.

Observed through the lens of Google, luxury lovers all over the world show many similarities: 'For about ten years, 15 per cent of daily searches are completely new. And queries on luxury are becoming more detailed and punctual. Starting with the form: today 60 per cent contain seven words or more, because the searcher wants something specific. Artificial intelligence tools already interest more than 6 out of 10 buyers'. Cultural peculiarities, however, give rise to different buying dynamics. A recent study in collaboration with Kantar revealed the distinctive nuances of Italian fashion lovers: 'They are much more driven by emotions than by rationality in their luxury purchases: 69 per cent move following the impulse. They use Google as a sort of control: 74 per cent of those who discover a product on social media then do targeted searches with our search engines to find out more".

Similarities and differences also cross the different generations of users, Millennials and GenZ have a special relationship with luxury, aimed at sustainability and attentive to social impact. "In China and South-East Asia, interest is still very high and focuses on quality and hyper-personalisation. In Western countries and Japan, the attraction for vintage and preloved has been emerging for some time, fuelled also by the nostalgia operations crowding social media. Brands have the not easy task of balancing exclusivity with reaching a wider audience. This is where communication, aided by AI, becomes crucial'. However, generative intelligence is not limited to orchestrating the desire narrative. Alongside Gemini, Google's signature AI, applications designed specifically for the luxury world are flourishing. In the United States and Australia, and soon in other countries, augmented reality for beauty products has been integrated in Google search and on YouTube, allowing make-up to be tried on virtually. Also in the US, Astra, a virtual assistant that promises to simplify the choice and purchase experience, both online and offline, is being tested. Like a friend during a shopping session, Astra responds simultaneously to heterogeneous inputs: text, images, audio and video. It identifies products, provides detailed information, stores conversations, allows virtual fittings of clothes and accessories, and compares prices and boutiques in a fraction of a second.

"Online it is difficult to know what the clothes worn will look like. According to Ipsos data, 42 per cent of customers do not feel represented by the models and 59 per cent are dissatisfied with the purchase made on the web. The advantages of artificial intelligence? It makes it possible to see how a dress fits, stretches and forms pleats and shadows on a series of real models in various poses, with sizes from XXS to 4XL, representing different skin tones, body shapes, ethnicities'.

The future of luxury is here and is played out, once again, in the integration of physical and digital. From virtual fitting rooms, which allow the perfect fit to be experienced, to AI that anticipates desires, even before they are expressed, the high-end is being redesigned through technologies capable of making the intangible tangible. Transforming luxury into a concrete dream, to be touched by hand.

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