Lampedusa, an island-world combining nightlife, nature and independent travel
Ahead of Pope Leo XIV’s pastoral visit on 4 July, the local council is stepping up its urban regeneration programme and calling on the government to introduce measures to tackle the area’s geographical isolation
Key points
There are those who would like to see it transformed into a sort of Ibiza, all new-age hippy and nightlife. Others see it as a sanctuary for migrants: throngs of supportive tourists marching in procession to the ‘Porta d’Europa’, an installation by Mimmo Paladino situated between Cala Spugne and the Porto Vecchio, in memory of all those lost at sea. Others see it as reduced to a militarised zone, with Air Force bases, the Guardia di Finanza and detachments of the Carabinieri and the police. And with that hotspot, run by the Red Cross since 2023, which is there but out of sight: the facility set up in Contrada Imbriacola, with dozens of staff and volunteers, is in reality a bastion of humanity, despite Europe’s recent crackdown on migration and asylum. More than 180,000 migrants have been accommodated over the last three years, in completely refurbished facilities.
The essence of Lampedusa
Lampedusa has a character all of its own: rather than a mere rock, it is a plateau – a rocky expanse of 20 square kilometres – which rises in the north before sloping down towards Africa. And it is, in fact, part of Africa, starting with its geology. Together with Linosa and Lampione, it forms the Pelagie archipelago, closer to Tunisia than to Sicily, which lies twice as far away (250 km). Administratively, it belongs to the province of Agrigento.
Every cove and every landscape opening out onto the sea is spectacular. The Isola dei Conigli nature reserve, where bookings are compulsory for visits from 8 June onwards, is surrounded by every shade of blue. It is also home to sea turtle nesting sites and conservation areas. The rock is bare and limestone, covered in places by small, fragrant bushes of thyme, chamomile and helichrysum, limonium, Phoenician juniper and carob. Nothing but Mediterranean scrub, with North African plants and cornflowers. The caper bushes in early summer are bursting with flowers and small fruits. Barely concealed by the vegetation, one can glimpse shipwrecks and the remains of sunken vessels.
Awaiting Pope Leo’s visit
Smiles everywhere – at the harbour, in front of the boats for organised tours, in the souvenir shops, at the Bar dell’Amicizia or the one on Via Roma. The tourist welcome is a bit of a DIY affair, but very warm. In the town centre, scooters and Meharis whizz past open-air building sites. The island – with 6,000 residents – is preparing to welcome Pope Leo’s pastoral visit on 4 July, ‘which will begin with a private moment inside the cemetery, in front of the migrants’ graves,’ reveals Mayor Filippo Mannino. “Then there will be a stop at the Porta d’Europa to meet the community and some immigrant families. This will be followed by a visit to the Favaloro pier – a key landing point – for the blessing of a commemorative stele dedicated to Pope Francis, after whom the pier will be officially named.” From that walkway overlooking the sea, Francis, in July 2013, denounced the “globalisation of indifference”.
Sustainability projects
Pope Leo XIV’s visit will conclude with Mass at the municipal stadium. The public order and safety committees are hard at work. The urban regeneration programme is gathering pace, with road resurfacing taking place in many areas. ‘We are laying a special type of road surface that is permeable and capable of combating heat in sunny areas,’ explains Mannino, who has been mayor since 2022. This forms part of the ‘green islands’ programme under the National Recovery and Resilience Plan (PNRR), for which Lampedusa has received funding of 41.3 million euros.” With the remainder, the local council is funding various environmental sustainability projects, such as the purchase of electric vehicles to support tourism operators.

