In Sicily

Lampedusa, an island-world combining nightlife, nature and independent travel

Ahead of Pope Leo XIV’s pastoral visit on 4 July, the local council is stepping up its urban regeneration programme and calling on the government to introduce measures to tackle the area’s geographical isolation

by Donata Marrazzo

6' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

6' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

There are those who would like to see it transformed into a sort of Ibiza, all new-age hippy and nightlife. Others see it as a sanctuary for migrants: throngs of supportive tourists marching in procession to the ‘Porta d’Europa’, an installation by Mimmo Paladino situated between Cala Spugne and the Porto Vecchio, in memory of all those lost at sea. Others see it as reduced to a militarised zone, with Air Force bases, the Guardia di Finanza and detachments of the Carabinieri and the police. And with that hotspot, run by the Red Cross since 2023, which is there but out of sight: the facility set up in Contrada Imbriacola, with dozens of staff and volunteers, is in reality a bastion of humanity, despite Europe’s recent crackdown on migration and asylum. More than 180,000 migrants have been accommodated over the last three years, in completely refurbished facilities.

The essence of Lampedusa

Lampedusa has a character all of its own: rather than a mere rock, it is a plateau – a rocky expanse of 20 square kilometres – which rises in the north before sloping down towards Africa. And it is, in fact, part of Africa, starting with its geology. Together with Linosa and Lampione, it forms the Pelagie archipelago, closer to Tunisia than to Sicily, which lies twice as far away (250 km). Administratively, it belongs to the province of Agrigento.

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Every cove and every landscape opening out onto the sea is spectacular. The Isola dei Conigli nature reserve, where bookings are compulsory for visits from 8 June onwards, is surrounded by every shade of blue. It is also home to sea turtle nesting sites and conservation areas. The rock is bare and limestone, covered in places by small, fragrant bushes of thyme, chamomile and helichrysum, limonium, Phoenician juniper and carob. Nothing but Mediterranean scrub, with North African plants and cornflowers. The caper bushes in early summer are bursting with flowers and small fruits. Barely concealed by the vegetation, one can glimpse shipwrecks and the remains of sunken vessels.

Awaiting Pope Leo’s visit

Smiles everywhere – at the harbour, in front of the boats for organised tours, in the souvenir shops, at the Bar dell’Amicizia or the one on Via Roma. The tourist welcome is a bit of a DIY affair, but very warm. In the town centre, scooters and Meharis whizz past open-air building sites. The island – with 6,000 residents – is preparing to welcome Pope Leo’s pastoral visit on 4 July, ‘which will begin with a private moment inside the cemetery, in front of the migrants’ graves,’ reveals Mayor Filippo Mannino. “Then there will be a stop at the Porta d’Europa to meet the community and some immigrant families. This will be followed by a visit to the Favaloro pier – a key landing point – for the blessing of a commemorative stele dedicated to Pope Francis, after whom the pier will be officially named.” From that walkway overlooking the sea, Francis, in July 2013, denounced the “globalisation of indifference”.

Sustainability projects

Pope Leo XIV’s visit will conclude with Mass at the municipal stadium. The public order and safety committees are hard at work. The urban regeneration programme is gathering pace, with road resurfacing taking place in many areas. ‘We are laying a special type of road surface that is permeable and capable of combating heat in sunny areas,’ explains Mannino, who has been mayor since 2022. This forms part of the ‘green islands’ programme under the National Recovery and Resilience Plan (PNRR), for which Lampedusa has received funding of 41.3 million euros.” With the remainder, the local council is funding various environmental sustainability projects, such as the purchase of electric vehicles to support tourism operators.

Tutta la bellezza del Mediterraneo tra le calette e i sentieri dell’isola

Photogallery12 foto

The property market is soaring

It is essentially small local businesses that are driving tourism. There is a lack of major investors. And B&Bs – both licensed and unlicensed – are springing up everywhere. In the town centre, prices for dilapidated properties have skyrocketed: over 100,000 euros for – at a push – 40-square-metre properties, all in need of renovation. Tourists do not pay a tourist tax, so it is difficult to obtain an accurate figure for tourist numbers. However, a landing fee is charged to those arriving by plane or ship. According to the mayor, ‘last year there were around 150,000 arrivals. And this year it seems tourist numbers are on the rise. The season has got off to a good start, with a 4 per cent increase,’ he says. But in 2025, actual arrivals may have been higher, given that the landing fee (€5 per person) brought €900,000 into the council’s coffers. “So we’ve invested a small portion in tourism promotion and the rest in waste management.” Lampedusa’s rubbish leaves the island, goes to Sicily and then ends up in Germany.

The island grapples with the presence of migrants

The mayor, representing a centre-right majority, governs with goodwill. He was elected following the tumultuous mayoralty of Giusi Nicolini (recipient of the UNESCO Peace Prize, the Passione Civile Prize in Verona, the Simone de Beauvoir Prize in Paris, and the Olof Palme Prize in Stockholm). And following the outcry caused by so many landings and shipwrecks. Those were the days of a different Lampedusa. Today, there is a palpable temptation to portray the island as if the migrant issue did not concern it – indeed, as if it did not exist at all. But then Mannino admits that ‘this is also part of Lampedusa’s story, and indeed, the presence of migrants is an added value. It’s just that things are better now – he is keen to point out – whereas before it was just an emergency, with only cooperatives taking advantage of the situation. With management entirely geared towards the cameras. We, on the other hand, with the refurbishment work now complete and a more prudent organisation, have restored dignity to these people. The hotspot is also equipped with a mobile gynaecological clinic.”

The disadvantages of insularity

Right now, the mayor is in talks with the government to protect the community: the disadvantages arising from the island’s remote location are severe. The Parliamentary Commission on Insularity is seeking measures to alleviate the situation. ‘We have never featured so prominently on the government’s agenda,’ Mannino continues with satisfaction. ‘But our location turns ordinary problems into enormous challenges. For a start, nobody here can commute.’ Not even doctors. The hospital operates solely as an A&E department. If that is not enough, patients are transferred by helicopter, at their own expense, to Palermo, which is the health district to which the island belongs. No babies have been born on Lampedusa for 30 years: women nearing childbirth move with their families to Agrigento or other Sicilian cities.

Rising fuel prices put fishing at risk

The islanders now, however, have a fully equipped ambulance, provided by the National Institute for the Promotion of Migrant Health and the Fight against Poverty-Related Diseases. They also have a heated incubator that can be transported safely by helicopter. A decentralised oncology service has recently been launched, serving 50 patients. ‘We’re also facing difficulties with school and administrative staff. There are further problems with the fishermen, for whom we’re calling for a tax exemption scheme on fuel and gas.’ Fishing is the island’s main industry. But now, with the rise in petrol and diesel prices, most boats prefer to stay in port. The fishermen know that the day’s catch will not cover their costs. “We need a reduction in VAT from 22 to 5 per cent.”

A new vision

Following its participation in the ITB in Berlin and other international trade fairs, Lampedusa aims to attract not only Italian tourists – who currently come exclusively from the north – but also European travellers, particularly Germans and French. And whilst the mayor plans to spread visitor numbers more evenly throughout the year – “because the sea here is warm even in November” – he intends to spend the 45 million allocated under the ‘Decreto Sud’ on a strategic infrastructure plan covering the road, sewerage and water networks. And to build a fuel storage depot. These are urgent measures, intended to compensate for the hardships the island is experiencing. But on their own, they are not enough to ensure the island’s effective, harmonious and comprehensive development: Lampedusa still needs a vision, a model, a project – economic, cultural, and focused on regenerative and creative tourism – that brings together all the facets of this ‘island-world’.

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