Watches, the largest and richest Cartier collection at auction at Sotheby's
Between this month and June, three auctions in Hong Kong, Geneva and New York will offer over 300 Cartier watches, featuring iconic and extremely rare pieces. Revenues of at least $15 million are expected
For aficionados, the one organised by Sotheby's will be a historic event: in three auctions, to be held in Hong Kong, Geneva and New York from this month until June, "The Shapes of Cartier" will offer the largest and most extensive collection of Cartier watches ever presented, with more than 300 pieces from various eras, among the most representative but also among the rarest ever made by the maison founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier.
Crash, Santos, Bagnoire, Pebble, Octagonal, Maxi-Oval, Cintrée, Reverso, Driver and their extremely rare variations will be the stars of the 'Important Watches' auctions scheduled in Hong Kong on 24 April, in Geneva on 10 May and in New York on 15 June.
It has taken 25 years to put together this exceptional collection, which aims to achieve revenues of over $15 million. "The attractiveness of vintage Cartier watches lies in their ability to capture a moment in history in design while remaining timeless," notes Sam Hines, Global President of Sotheby's Watch Division. "Whether in the asymmetry of the Crash or the proportions of the Baignoire Allongée, each watch reflects a unique dialogue between artistic skill and innovation. This collection is fundamental not only for its breadth, but also for its depth, especially through its unprecedented ability to bring together Cartier London watches, many of which are among the most important pieces ever to come to market."
The Hong Kong auction will open the series with a 1987 Cartier Crash, London, estimated at between $400,000 and $800,000, a figure that brings it close to the record of $1 million spent on the Cartier "Cheich" Montre Bracelet, a unique piece sold in 2022 at Sotheby's that started from a lower estimate ($200-400,000): it is one of three pieces made in 1987, belonging to a model created in 1967 and known for its enigmatic shapes, representing the revolutionary spirit of the 1960s. For years, it was believed that its peculiar shape was inspired by the 'liquid' watches painted by Salvador Dali in his 'The Persistence of Memory', while according to another 'legend' it was derived from that of a Baignoire Allongée deformed by a car accident. It was Francesca Cartier Brickell, a descendant of the founders, who shed light on its origin in her book 'The Cartiers' (published in 2021 but not yet available in an Italian version). According to her, Jean-Jacques Cartier and Rupert Emmerson, head of the design office of Cartier's London branch, revamped the Maxi Oval, distorting its profile. The one in London, along Bond Street, was in fact the most visionary and open to innovation of the three Cartier offices at the time - the other two were in Paris and New York - and from there, between 1967 and 1970, some 12 Crash watches were released, a figure that makes this model one of the rarest and most sought-after.
Also shining in the Hong Kong auction catalogue will be a Cartier Decagonal, also made in London, one of only five known pieces (estimate $60-80,000), a 1992 Tank Asymétrique (also Cartier London) ($60-80,000), a Cartier Driver's ($50-80,000) and a 1973-4 Baignoire ($50-68,000).
