Late autumn landscapes from the Bernina Train with a stop in Pontresina

The end of autumn is still magical when the Bernina train takes you along the railway line from Tirano, Italy, to Pontresina, Switzerland, through a breathtaking Alpine landscape. The journey, which takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes, includes stops such as the helical viaduct in Brusio and the highest point, the Ospizio Bernina, at an altitude of over 2,250 metres. There is also Alp Grüm, with its panoramic view of the valley and glaciers, and Ospizio Bernina (the highest station at over 2,000 metres), where you can admire the impressive Lago Bianco and Lago Nero. Along the way you can admire the peaks that crown the Poschiavo Valley. When you reach the Bernina Pass, the panorama becomes superlative, you can see the great peaks over 4,000 metres that are whitewashed. And then comes the beautiful descent to Pontresina and from there to the Roseg Valley or Lake Staz. St. Morizt is very close and so is the enchanting village of Silz, another excursion on this hypothetical itinerary. This year the foliage season, thanks to the high temperatures, has not yet ended and on board the train the spectacle of the red larch trees plunging into the waters of the small mountain lakes is enchanting. November is that transitional month where the colours are still intense, one is often immersed in the quiet away from the hustle and bustle of mass tourism and where one can still dedicate oneself to low-altitude hiking trails

The Bernina Red Train is as much a 'myth' train as the Orient Express or the Trans-Siberian Railway, and the railway on which it runs is even a Unesco World Heritage Site. It is the highest altitude (2253 m) track in Europe, passing through forests, lakes, glaciers, arched bridges, hairpin bends and breathtaking views. A jewel that travels at those altitudes even in the middle of winter, every day without a hitch, thanks to a mechanism in the engine that acts directly as a snowplough. And it is spectacular when everything around is snow-covered, a real fiabian landscape (think what a sight it must be to make the journey when it is all white). The viewpoints are not missed because the stops, indicated on the maps on the carriage tables, are announced in several languages anyway and some stations are just stops in the middle of the woods from which you can perhaps set off on a walk or bicycle tour...

Pontresina Giacciaio del Monterash in autunno

Anyone who thinks of Pontresina inevitably also thinks of mountaineering. The impressive mountain world offers various challenges for mountaineers, including the "king of the Eastern Alps" Piz Bernina. Whether climbing icy walls, ski tours or, in this season's hiking season, trekking with snowshoes, every mountaineer's heart beats a little faster in Pontresina. It is no coincidence that Pontresina's mountaineering school is the largest and most renowned in Switzerland. In the Alpine Museum, you can learn interesting facts about summer and winter mountaineering, from the pioneering days of climbing the Bernina massif to the development of modern mountaineering. For those who enjoy winter descents, the night-time descents on the Diavolezza are not to be missed. In Romansh "Glüna Plaina" means full moon. And it is precisely when the full moon shines in all its intensity that the Diavolezza cable car, weather permitting, resumes its night-time service: Piz Palü emerges majestically in the darkness, the snowfields glow in the light of the full moon as skiers venture down the prepared piste lit only by the moon. But those who prefer to observe the mountains from a 'safe distance' also find a varied programme in Pontresina. For example, the village is regarded as one of the strongholds of curling in Switzerland, and during the winter season, tournaments in this discipline are regularly held on the charmingly situated Roseg natural ice rink. But the valley is beautiful in this season, romantic to reach sitting in a horse-drawn carriage. One enjoys the view to the rhythmic pawing of the hooves, the scent of the pine forest and feels as if in a fairytale. On foot, however, a walk to the Lej da Staz is a must, which lies calmly and on its dark shimmering surface reflects the surrounding forests and mountains. After a long summer, the lake water is still pleasantly warm and, on the shore, a barbecue area and playground invite you to linger. Walking through the small streets of Pontresina, one now glimpses the Sta. Maria mountain church or the typical Engadin houses with their unmistakable graffiti. And then some buildings that have made history.

Poschiavo

One of these is the Grand Hotel Kronenhof, nicknamed The Grande Dame of the Engadine, a hotel that has been welcoming guests since 1848. With its 19th-century neo-baroque architecture, the Grand Hotel Kronenhof is unique and one of the most important examples of neo-baroque architecture in the Alps, so much so that it is protected by the Ministry of Culture as a historical monument and a visit to it is well worth a trip to Pontresina. Founded in 1848 as Gasthaus Rössli by the Gredig family, the Kronenhof is one of the most representative buildings of the Alpine Belle Époque. Today, after more than 175 years of history, it continues to be one of the most iconic destinations for luxury tourism in Graubünden. The hotel, a member of Swiss Deluxe Hotels, retains the period charm in its architecture and salons, but welcomes travellers with the comfort of the present. The recent renovation signed by Pierre-Yves Rochon has brought back the original elegance of the 112 rooms and suites, many of which overlook the Roseg and Bernina glaciers, and has restored new harmony to the public areas: from the Lobby to the Kronenhof Bar and the Fumoir, each room reflects meticulous attention to detail. Beautiful is the striking Kronenhof Spa with a view of the ancient Le Pavillon, the summer solarium surrounded by greenery. Its panoramic indoor pool overlooks the surrounding peaks, and the atmospheric outdoor yoga platforms invite guests to stop and recharge their batteries and indulge in unforgettable moments of relaxation. Hiking trails to the nearby Roseg Valley and the Morterasch Glacier captivate guests of all ages, while the free Camerata Pontresina concerts held every Sunday in the Taiswald forest ensure an absolutely unique and priceless experience.

Kronenhof

The hotel is open all year round, except for a short break in May, and has a full programme of activities during these months as well. One example is the Torch Hike with the General Manager - an atmospheric hike under the starry sky led by Claudio Laager, Director of the Kronenhof. Illuminated only by torchlight, the panoramic trail in Pontresina takes on an enchanted atmosphere, allowing guests to reconnect with nature and experience the authenticity of the mountains at nightfall (dates 14, 21 and 28 November). Gourmet passion is another must for the hotel's guests. In the kitchen, autumn brings a game menu to the gourmet restaurant Kronenstübli, which celebrates the season with elegant and sophisticated dishes accompanied by local wines. This place (it is one of the hotel's three restaurants), which is also open to outside guests, has been the jewel in the "thousand" kitchens of the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in Pontresina (Michelin Star) for years. In 1848, the Gredig family began their adventure here, making it their Gredig wine shop and serving wines painstakingly transported on horseback across the Bernina Pass at 2,300 metres above sea level. The Gourmet Restaurant Kronenstübli is the original core of the hotel, including the Gredig family's first home. Don't miss "The Scent of Wine": an exclusive experience in the hotel's historic wine cellar, during which you can refine your taste buds with the aromas of fine wines and above all discover fascinating stories and backgrounds behind their production (18 November).