Great Journeys

Lemurs, baobabs and turtles between Madagascar and the Mitsio archipelago

by Luca Bergamin

Il paesaggio delle Miitsio

3' min read

3' min read

The Indian Ocean off the Mozambique Channel irresistibly attracts with the adamantine beauty of its waters and the amazing animal and plant inhabitants living on its islands. Especially the Mitsio Archipelago beloved by turtles for nesting. Those who wish to wake up and paddle within the necklaces of pearls that are its beaches and bays, swim at night among the iridescent fish by virtue of the lustre of their skin pigment, and share the thrill of fishing with the local population, can realise a dream on this handful of islands.

Un pescatore a Nosy Be

Hell Ville the picturesque market in Nosy Be

In Nosy Be, one is always thrilled by the unintentional spectacle put on by the traditional pirogues, the lakas, that ply the waves to carry the goods needed to meet daily needs. Works of wooden craftsmanship from the skilful work of the caulkers, they are carved from a single tree trunk and dot the sea by the thousands in the morning. When the fishermen return to shore, the pirogues are occupied by local travellers, especially traders heading for the Hell Ville market: it is a colourful and very picturesque place. The pyramids of exotic fruit that can be seen and then tasted always make a great impression, as does the variety of spices arranged on large, colourful plates. Resisting the temptations of the spicy street food dripping with sauce is impossible, as is not playing foosball or engaging in discussion with the vendors of colourful clothes, the draped lambas reproducing geometric designs or figures from nature. Children, meanwhile, amuse themselves on the merry-go-rounds with their bizarre and somewhat ramshackle architecture, while the youngsters polish their muscles in the open-air gyms using weights and very vintage equipment. Then, on the peak of the island, you can reach the primary forest called Lokobe Nature Special Reserve where the curators, somewhat like local witch doctors, go up every day to collect medicinal plants: the route unfolds in various circuits through which trekkers will encounter lemurs, birds and rare plant species...

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Ankarea appare all’orizzonte

The baobabs loved by the lemurs in Ankarea

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The symbolic tree of Madagascar is the baobab, which can reach truly astounding shapes and sizes, forming with its bombastic branches authentic cathedrals of leaves destined to be dens of colourful birds and especially lemurs, greedy for the fruits of this totemic tree. Certainly, the Avenue of the Baobabs that one encounters when travelling between Morondava and Belo Tsiribihina undoubtedly represents the national botanical icon of the whole of Madagascar, but it is always crowded with cars and tourist buses. It is therefore worth approaching these creatures of nature precisely by sailing to the islet of Nosy Ankarea, where one encounters endemic forests located right in the heart of this virgin handkerchief of land into which one lands by trampling an expanse of shells. Almost uninhabited, Nosy Ankarea transports you into a wild and primordial atmosphere in which the acrobatics of these primates, the lemurs in fact, make one think of real acrobats, clowns of nature. While butterflies rest involuntarily and imperceptibly on their hands and arms.

At Nosy Komba amidst volcanic organ pipes

At Nosy Komba, one is greeted by turtles that also seem surprised by the landing of human beings in what constitutes a natural paradise sculpted by volcano and wind into the shape of a carapace shell. Just over six kilometres long and five kilometres wide, it is characterised above all by its organ-shaped basalt reeds and granite rocks. In the Malagasy language, its name means island of rocks. In the small villages of huts at Antera and Anjiabe - you can stay at the Canopee Lodge - you are won over by the kindness of the inhabitants, who offer to share their fried fish dishes and willingly guide you on treks to observe the many species of lemurs and chameleons, up to the panoramic peaks from which you can enjoy the view of the cliffs, as well as by dugout canoe.

Un lemure a Nosy Komba

Tsarabanjina e l’Oceano indiano

The Tsarabanjina Jewel and Reef

The jewel is definitely the small island of Tsarabanjina, a paradise surrounded by blue and green, transparent waters, where very fragrant flowers grow Its small inlets are hemmed in by heart-shaped rocks. Fishermen lay their fish on the rocks to dry, and you can even visit the tomb of an ancient Madagascan king set in the ravines of the cliff, which is a tender pink. In the coves curled up like alcoves, the white foam powdered the body's limbs. The Constance Tsarabanjina Resort with its design-style huts and the many excursions it organises in the archipelago, including unforgettable underwater explorations, e.g. to Nosy Tolholo where the groupers are beautiful, and to other reef 'spots', makes the trip to the Mitsio a truly dreamlike one.

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