Interview

Linardos (Rlc Global Forum): 'Retail and brands united to overcome the crisis. The Gulf? It will recover"

On 3 and 4 June in Milan the Rlc Fashion Summit, the second one organised in the city in less than a year: 'It is the place that best represents the two souls of fashion, creativity and business'

by Marta Casadei

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

2026 was supposed to be the year of recovery for a luxury market that, from 2024 onwards, experienced critical moments. International events, however, have once again shuffled the cards, forcing companies - some of which are engaged in efficiency-boosting processes to return to growth - to review certain strategies. In this context, the conversation between companies and retailers, which have similarly come to terms with the need for evolution and have not always succeeded, is always open - and, indeed, it is stronger - in the search for new solutions, as Panos Linardos, president of RLC Global Forum, a platform that brings together leaders, innovators and institutional decision-makers and that for the second time in less than a year has chosen Milan for a comparison between international players: on 3 and 4 June, in fact, the Rlc Fashion Summit will bring together brand managers (from Prada to Golden Goose, via Kiton and Cucinelli) and retailers (Selfridges, LuxExperience and Saks among others).

President Linardos, the fashion and luxury industry has initiated a number of changes in response to the crisis. What are the most necessary and what is retail focusing on?  

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The industry is moving away from the model that focused on growth at any cost, expansion at any condition. Brands are trying to return to efficiency and reduce complexity, while putting the consumer and values at the centre, which, in the eyes of the buyer, have regained great importance. And this is the real challenge because consumers have become more informed and therefore more selective, and also by virtue of this less loyal if they do not find themselves in the values of brands. Retail has a key role to play in this context: consumers demand that these values be extended beyond the product to the experience, to services. It has to be said that consumer confidence around the world is on the upswing but this is happening unevenly geographically and, in general, there is a lot of caution. For this reason, it is crucial for brands and retailers to restart from values.

The international situation is challenging markets, such as the Emirates, which had experienced positive moments in the post-Covid era. What do you expect?

What is happening on a geopolitical level (instability in the Iranian and Gulf area, ed.) is having a negative impact on some markets of great importance for the fashion and luxury sector, such as the Emirates, Saudi Arabia and Qatar. There have been immediate consequences on tourist flows, for example, but we believe that despite this the Gulf will play an increasingly strategic role in the global luxury market in the future. Not only because, in the past, even in the face of major emergencies such as the pandemic, it has shown greater resilience than other locations, but also because in countries such as Saudi Arabia a long-term plan has been designed and put in place to acquire a significant role in the sector.

You have chosen to return to Milan, after a stop in Riyadh, for the 2026 fashion summit. Why Italy?

The choice to be in Milan with our summit for the second consecutive year is definitely intentional. The city has become a global hub for fashion and luxury and fully embodies the duality between the souls of the industry: on the one hand creativity and on the other the discipline of business that is needed to sustain creativity. It is also the place where culture and craftsmanship meet and, therefore, the best place to discuss what is happening and what will happen.

What are the most pressing issues to be addressed?

The issues on the plate are many, from fragmented markets to artificial intelligence, but the most urgent - considering that the market is saturated at the moment - concerns the need for clarity and alignment in the relationship between brands and end consumers. At the centre must return the concept of desirability.

Has the crisis changed the relationship between retailers and brands?

The relationship between brands and retailers is much more pragmatic than in the past. In a difficult time like the current one, with markets that as I said are very fragmented, the consumer's journey in the world of luxury is more multifaceted and therefore partnerships between brands and retailers need to be rethought. Multi-brands can offer special care in the selection of brands and products, lead consumers to discover or rediscover brands, precisely because they have a deep knowledge of the market. And then they are very strong in local clientelling. The link between brands and retailers must be strengthened and must move from being a transactional relationship to a strategic one.

The stakeholders you will be comparing are large physical department stores and web platforms. Does it still make sense to differentiate between online and offline sales?  

There is no longer a boundary between online and physical shopping, to the extent that many consumers look for information online and then buy in the shop, which is no longer perceived as a 'point of sale' but as a place to experience. Shops in recent years have proved to be a mainstay for sales of fashion and luxury products.

Then there is a variable to consider: artificial intelligence? What impact will it have?

Artificial intelligence is transforming the industry and will transform it even more in the future both in terms of infrastructure support and the way retailers engage consumers in shopping experiences, with after-sales services, consumer care, appointment books and engagement, to name but a few. We see that from being on the agenda of tech divisions, in the last 12 months Ai has become a priority for CEOs and even at board level. The risk is that if the industry does not focus on studying this technology, which is still immature, it will not be able to keep up with the pace that will be required of it.

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