Food production

Lombardy's DOP Economy is worth 2.5 billion and is the third in Italy

69% of the value comes from the cheese chain, in particular the production of Grana Padano

by Micaela Cappellini

Prodotto in regione il 70% delle forme di Grana fatte in Italia. (Imagoeconomica)

3' min read

3' min read

In Lombardy, the DOP Economy is worth EUR 2.50 billion a year and has grown by 3.3% in 2023. From Grana Padano to Gorgonzola, from Provolone to Bresaola, the economy that revolves around controlled-designation productions knows no setbacks. And it assigns Lombardy the bronze medal of the most PDO region in Italy, behind first place Veneto (4.8 billion, but up only 0.4%) and second place Emilia Romagna (3.8 billion, but down 2.4%).

The data come from the latest report by Ismea and the Qualivita Foundation, according to which the national PDO Economy has now exceeded 20 billion euro in value per year.

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Lombardy is home to 75 of Italy's 317 protected designation of origin products: 34 are PDOs and PGIs in the food sector, 41 are DOC, DOCG and IGTs in the wine sector. 69% of the value comes from the cheese chain alone, followed at a great distance by wines (19%) and cured meats, which contribute only 11%. The PDO Economy accounts for 15% of the region's entire agri-food turnover and can count on 8,418 operators. If we analyse only the food sector, Lombardy's PDO food industry is worth 2.085 billion euros, growing by 4.2% and is the second largest in Italy, while the wine sector, which is worth 496 million euros (seventh in Italy), remains at the same level as last year.

"The cheese chain confirms itself as the region's real gold mine," recalled Alessandro Beduschi, Lombardy Region's Agriculture Councillor, who is also an Ismea councillor, at the presentation of the report. "Among the cheeses produced in our region, nationally Grana Padano is the top Italian PDO product with 1.88 billion in production value. In the Italian top ten of dairy products we also find Parmigiano Reggiano with 1.59 billion, Gorgonzola with 430 million and Provolone Valpadana with 55 million. Of the whole cheese sector, Lombardy alone accounts for 1.7 billion Euro and holds the absolute record at national level. This result is not just an economic fact, it is the sign of territories that know how to look to the future'. Another Lombardy icon, Bresaola della Valtellina, is also among the top 15 denomination products in the national ranking, with a value of 225 million euro in 2023.

The champion of Lombardy's PDO Econonomy, however, unquestionably remains Grana Padano, as the region produces about 70 per cent of all the wheels made in Italy. Grana cheese factories are concentrated in the provinces of Mantua, Brescia and Cremona. The share of Parmigiano Reggiano, on the other hand, is much smaller: Lombardy is responsible for less than 10% of national production, with production concentrated in the 19 Mantuan dairies that are members of the protection consortium.

Gorgonzola, the sixth PDO at national level, is the fourth most important certified product in Lombardy in terms of economic value: of the more than 5.1 million wheels produced in Italy last year, over 1.4 million were made here. All the rest, however, is the prerogative of Piedmontese dairies. As for Provolone Valpadana, the PDO is currently produced in six regions: as far as Lombardy is concerned, the bulk of production is concentrated in the province of Cremona.

Exclusively from Lombardy, on the other hand, is the production of IGP Bresaola della Valtellina, whose typical area coincides with the entire Sondrio province. In 2023, just under 11,900 tonnes were made, 3.45% less than the previous year, generating a consumer turnover of around 451 million euro, also down 8.28% on 2022.

At a territorial level, the sum of food and wine sees the province of Brescia at the top, with 929 million euro, which alone accounts for 36% of all regional PDO production and in the Italian classification is in fifth place, ahead of even a reality like Modena considered the epicentre of national Food Valley. In tenth place in the ranking, and second in Lombardy, is the province of Mantua, with 602 million euros in value and 23% of the regional PDO production; followed by Cremona with 307 million euros and Sondrio with 278 million.

As regards the food segment alone, five Lombardy provinces are in the top 20 nationally in terms of value: Mantua (4th place) with 594 million euros (+2.8%), Brescia (5th place) with 581 million (+7.5%), Cremona (8th place) with 307 million (+8.6%), Sondrio (11th place) with 260 million (-4%) and Lodi (20th place) with 110 million (+10.1%). In the wine sector alone, Brescia is in 6th place nationally with a value of 348 million euros, while Pavia is 20th with 114 million.

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