Trends

Low-alcohol wines, Italy stands still while France and Spain run

According to UIV data based on Nielsen-IQ, in contrast to conventional wine, dealcoholised wines closed the half-year in retail in the US, UK and Germany with a total value of EUR 79 million (+16%)

by Giorgio dell'Orefice

I vini a bassa gradaiozne piacciono sempre di più ai giovani

3' min read

3' min read

Alcohol-free but full of uncertainty. This is the condition of Italian wine producers determined to venture into the new frontier of alcohol-free or low-alcohol wines. A market segment that is on the rise, especially abroad. According to data from the UIV Observatory based on Nielsen-IQ, bucking the trend compared to conventional wine, alcohol-free wines closed the half-year in the retail sector in the USA, the UK and Germany with a total value of 79 million euro (+16%). With an increase in the US (which accounts for 50% of total demand) of 35%.

A segment in which Italy plays a residual role while other competitors, France and Spain in primis, have launched themselves promptly and decisively. It has recently been reported that the French luxury brand Lvmh, which owns Champagne brands such as Moet Chandon, Dom Perignon, Krug and Veuve Clicquot, has signed a partnership agreement with French Bloom, a label that has established itself in the production of non-alcoholic sparkling wines of quality, with a production of half a million bottles sold at prices even higher than $100. Much more than a signal.

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In Italy, on the other hand, everything is on the high seas, or worse, shrouded in the mists of uncertainty, not least because the round table on the production of dealcoholised wines announced by Minister Lollobrigida last July in late October has still not met once.

There are two knots to be unravelled in particular: on the one hand, the constraint laid down by the 2016 Testo Unico del Vino according to which a drink can be called 'wine' if it has a minimum alcoholic strength of 8.5 degrees. And so anyone who wants to make a product with a lower if not zero alcohol content must use a fancy name.

In reality, there would be theEU law that authorised the production of wines with a lower alcohol content, but the Italian law in conflict with the EU law has not yet been amended and producers in doubt as to whether or not they will be penalised avoid such processing within their company.

On the other hand, the second element of uncertainty: in a draft decree of Masaf circulated before the summer, there was a requirement to carry out dealcoholisation operations exclusively in authorised distilleries. A stringent constraint, especially when compared to the total freedom of manoeuvre envisaged in France and Spain. 'We cannot go on like this,' explains Massimo Romani, CEO of Argea, the leading private wine group in Italy with a turnover of EUR 449.5 million). We have launched a line of eight dealcolate labels that we have to produce in Germany. We suffer from too many rigidities while our competitors are running and occupying space in a market where the further we go, the harder it will be to catch up. We want to invest in this sector and our plants are ready but without regulatory clarification we will not move forward. We are all missing an important opportunity'.

"I have found my own way,' explains Chiara Soldati, owner of La Scolca, with almost a million bottles of wine produced and 60 hectares of vineyards, 'with a naturally low alcohol 9.5 degree wine. So I don't suffer the constraint of minimum degree nor that of elaboration as I follow a natural process. In 2023 I produced the first 15 thousand bottles, which became 35 thousand this year. All sold out. I will probably double production again. But it would be very important to have more freedom of manoeuvre. It's a shame we can't compete in all market segments'.

"Minister Lollobrigida has made no secret of the fact that he does not like this option,' comments Martin Foradori Hofstätter (one million bottles produced, 100,000 of wine dealcoholised from 52 hectares of his own property plus about 70 from external providers), 'but I would not point the finger at the minister. I fear that there is actually resistance within the supply chain. Certainly not from the industry, but in the farming world as well as in other links. I believe that those who are opposing this are not serving the interests of wine growers. Too often it is forgotten that it is not the minister or the industry associations that shift the balance, but the market. And it is the market that we have to look at and adapt to'.

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