Luxury

Lvmh, Arnault ceo until 85. And on duties: 'Blame Brussels if we increase US production'

by Marta Casadei

LVMH CEO French Bernard Arnault attends the LVMH Innovation Awards on the sidelines of the 8th edition of the Vivatech technology startups and innovation fair, at the Porte de Versailles exhibition centre in Paris, on May 23, 2024. (Photo by GEOFFROY VAN DER HASSELT / AFP)

3' min read

3' min read

The shareholders' meeting that met at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris put in place, as expected, a number of pieces of the enormous jigsaw puzzle that is Lvmh, the largest luxury group in the world, with 84.7 billion euro revenues 2024 and a capitalisation of 242 billion euro: firstly, the management's proposal to extend the maximum age for leading the group from 80 to 85 was approved, thus allowing Bernard Arnault, 76, to keep the reins of what is to all intents and purposes his 'creature', of which he is chairman and ceo, firmly in place for another nine years at least.

In the saddle until age 85: Arnault wins the yes of 99.2% of shareholders

The raising of the age is a decision taken almost unanimously (approved by 99.18% of shareholders, a majority that in other contexts would be described as 'Bulgarian') and much awaited, despite the fact that Monsieur Arnault has long since begun to test and reward the managerial skills of his five children: Delphine (ceo of Christian Dior), Antoine (chairman of Berluti), Alexandre (deputy ceo of Moët Hennessy since 1 February; since yesterday on the board of Moncler), Frédéric (ceo of Loro Piana since 26 March) and 26-year-old Jean, watch director at Louis Vuitton.

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Arnault: friendly and intelligent negotiations. British ahead of us

Arnault, who therefore does not intend to leave the helm of Lvmh for some time yet, spoke out very strongly on what - even in the world of luxury, the one with the most price inelastic clientele - is the topic of the moment: Trump's duties and the possible trade war between Europe and the United States.

The owner of Lvmh pointed the finger at Brussels: 'If we end up with high duties, we will be pushed to increase our American production, compulsorily, to avoid duties,' he said at the general meeting. He added that, in that case, 'we will not have to say that it is the companies' fault. It will be Brussels' fault if that happens. These negotiations are vital for many companies in France, and unfortunately, I have the impression that our British friends are more concrete in advancing the negotiations'. Arnault also said that the EU 'is not led by a political power, but by a bureaucratic power that spends its time publishing regulations'.

That of a possible increase in American production of Lvmh products to avoid the impact of the duties seems an almost provocative hypothesis, at least as far as the fashion/leather goods sector is concerned: already in 2019 Louis Vuitton had opened a factory in Texas, only to then, as told by a Reuters investigation, reduce its production capacity to a minimum due to the difficulty of finding competent labour.

Arnault - who has a long-standing relationship with President Donald Trump, so much so that he attended the latest inauguration ceremony with his entire family - appealed to European leaders to 'amicably' resolve trade tensions between Europe and the United States, also saying he was 'in favour' of establishing a free trade zone between the two major economic powers.

Changes at the top of the maisons to relaunch the fashion and leather goods division

The second move, as expected as the raising of the age to be group CEO, was the confirmation of Jonathan Anderson - who had relaunched the Spanish brand Loewe, also in Lvmh's portfolio, over the past 10 years - at the helm of Dior menswear.

The momentum is complex: the first three months of the year reported revenues of EUR 20.3 billion, down 2% on the almost EUR 20.7 billion in the same period of 2024, and the fashion and leather goods division - the heaviest: worth almost half of sales - was down 5% to EUR 10.1 billion on Q1 2024. The market did not react well: Lvmh's shares were down 36% on January.

In this context, creativity will be one of the main drivers for luxury fashion houses that have to tease out a demand that is inelastic to price increases, but still slowing down. And, therefore, a change of pace was expected in Avenue Montaigne. The next "special observed" is Fendi, the Roman maison that just in February celebrated its 150th anniversary and that from 1 July will have a new CEO, Ramon Ros, reporting to Sidney Toledano, historical manager of the group and senior advisor of Mr Arnault himself.

The president and ceo of Lvmh went on to say that the group's strategy will focus on growing the higher end of its product range, as less affluent buyers will be more vulnerable to rising inflation and interest rates.

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