High-end

Lvmh limits decline to 2% and closes nine months with over 60 billion in revenue

The world's largest luxury group suffers from the slowdown in Greater China, global uncertainties and consumer changes - From Italy, Ferragamo's accounts also negative

4' min read

4' min read

It is the largest luxury group in the world and holds the world's most famous luxury brand, Louis Vuitton (above, the Voyager collection fashion show), which is also number one in terms of revenues: it is therefore natural that Lvmh's first nine months results were the most awaited and 'pre-announced' as early as Monday.

The climate of tension

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A spasmodic wait also fuelled by two other factors: China's slowdown and the various stimulus packages put on the table by Beijing, and the uncertainty enveloping the high-end, not only because of geopolitical factors but because of the changes taking place in the consumption habits of the high-end, on whose exegesis many are exercising themselves, perhaps too many, in an atmosphere that resembles panic and that has led, in recent weeks, to whirlwinds and replacements of stylists and managers and to a renewed rush to pharaonic-like events that seem made to stun, rather than to solve problems or dissolve doubts.

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The data don't lie

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Total revenue dropped by 2% from EUR 62.205bn in January-September 2023 to EUR 60.753bn. The biggest decline was in Wine & Spirits (-11%), followed by Watches (-5%), while Perfumes & Cosmetics (+3%) was positive. The figure would be stable at constant perimeter and exchange rates, but down 2% when considering changes in perimeter and at current exchange rates. Europe and the United States recorded slight growth at constant perimeter and currency, while Japan continued to record double-digit sales growth; the rest of Asia reflected in particular the strong growth in spending by Chinese customers in Europe and Japan. "In the third quarter," said the group's scarce note, "the slight decline in revenue was mainly due to lower growth in Japan, mainly as a result of the strengthening yen. In an uncertain economic and geopolitical environment, the French giant remains confident and will maintain a strategy focused on continuously improving the desirability of its brands by leveraging the authenticity and quality of its products, distribution excellence and organisational agility'.

The Reasons for the Decline in the Wine&Spirits Sector

Champagne sales declined reflecting the ongoing normalisation of demand post-Covid but remained significantly higher than in 2019, the note said: champagne revenues fell by 6% to EUR 2,143 million in the nine months and cognac and spirits revenues fell by 11% to EUR 2,051 million. Hennessy cognac was held back by weak local demand in the Chinese market, while the US saw a return to growth in the second quarter, in a market that remained cautious.

The moves in recent weeks

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It's hard to remember two weeks more 'frantic', as the Americans would say, for the Lvmh group and its 75 maisons, numbering over 6,000 shops worldwide, all potential 'antennas' for purchase changes. The group has announced changes at the top stylistic summits of Celine, with the departure of Hedi Slimane, who many believe will go to Chanel, and of Fendi, where Kim Jones has left the creative direction of the women's part (keeping that of the men's part of Dior, another top maison of Lvmh). A replacement, Michael Rider, has already been chosen for Celine, while developments are awaited at Fendi (and Dior), perhaps with movements within the group. Among the candidates to be "promoted" to one of the most important maisons is JW Anderson, who in ten years has exponentially increased the revenues and fame of Loewe, another brand in the LVMH portfolio. Then there was the sale of Off White, the brand founded by the late Virgil Abloh, who was also creative director of the Vuitton man, and the almost simultaneous entry into the capital of the Moncler group. Lvmh also formalised a sponsorship with Formula One and the purchase of Paris Match magazine, perhaps signalling a renewed interest in magazine publishing.

America's Cup-related curiosity

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Today Louis Vuitton entered the America's Cup Hall of Fame with the presentation of the prestigious Sir Richard Francis Sutton Medal. The America's Cup Hall of Fame established the Sir Richard Francis Sutton Medal, in honour of the 19th century Royal Yacht Squadron sailor of the same name, to recognise and encourage the spirit of sportsmanship cherished by the organisation. The medal is awarded to individuals or entities that have demonstrated the same spirit in their association with the America's Cup. The close bond between Louis Vuitton and the America's Cup, two entities born in the same era, took shape in 1983, marking the beginning of a historic partnership. A relationship based on a love of travel and shared values such as a thirst for adventure, the pursuit of excellence, resilience in the face of challenges and an unwavering commitment to creativity and innovation. Pietro Beccari expressed his gratitude to Grant Dalton, CEO of the America's Cup, for the unwavering trust and bold vision with which he has developed this extraordinary partnership.

Negative data again for Ferragamo

Bad numbers in Q3 2024 and the first nine months also came from one of Italy's most famous high-end names, Salvatore Ferragamo. Third-quarter revenues were €221 million, down 7.2% at constant exchange rates and 9.6% at current exchange rates compared to Q3 2023, while revenues for the first nine months were €744 million, down 9.8% at constant exchange rates and 11.9% at current exchange rates compared to the first nine months of 2023. "Third-quarter results were affected by the difficult macroeconomic and consumer environment, a situation that we expect to continue in the latter part of the year," commented Marco Gobbetti, CEO and General Manager of Salvatore Ferragamo. "The lower propensity to buy on the part of consumers is most evident in the Asia-Pacific region and is the factor that has most impacted sales performance. The secondary channel was also impacted by the low level of traffic, which continues to affect the wholesale channel. Against this backdrop, the performance is below our expectations and is delaying the realisation of our financial targets. The work on enriching the product offering continues, as do the marketing and retail actions aimed at maximising the brand's potential and the acquisition of new customers, pursuing our own narrative and enhancing the experience both in-store and online, while maintaining strict operational discipline. In the quarter, these efforts produced encouraging results in sales in the primary retail channel in Europe, Japan and Latin America, in all the main product categories of the renewed continuation offer, and in particular in women's handbags and shoes also driven by some new icons.

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