Economics and finance

Magnusson (Acne Studios): ‘We want tomorrow to be our moment once again’

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Fashion and luxury brands are trying to work out how to navigate a landscape that, over the past six years – driven by a series of geopolitical and other events – has changed radically, placing them in varying degrees of difficulty. Thirty years have passed since Acne Studios was founded, and what began as a multidisciplinary collective – established in Stockholm in 1997 by artists including creative director Jonny Johansson – is now a growing brand, strengthened by its commitment to remaining true to itself and to its vision of cross-pollination as a catalyst for inspiration. The story of Acne Studios is told by CEO Mattias Magnusson, born in 1980, who has spent twenty years with the company and holds one firm conviction: ‘We believe in disciplined growth’.

The acronym Acne stands for ‘Ambition to Create Novel Expressions’. Thirty years on, do you think the company has realised these ambitions, and if so, how?

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There are two principles that have always guided our work successfully: uncompromising creativity and a multidisciplinary approach, which we use to offer a fresh and original perspective on what lies ahead. We are always focused on the future; we are never nostalgic.

What new forms of expression are you aiming to create now?

Our strategy is based on staying true to our core values: design first and foremost, genuine creativity, and the desire to inspire and offer an exciting experience. These remain the reasons why people visit our shops.

The fashion and luxury sectors are going through a difficult period. How has the past year been for you, and how are you coping with the changes currently taking place?

The last financial year went very well for us: we closed the 2025/26 financial year on 30 August 2026 with revenue of 400 million euros, up 34 per cent on 2024/25. We are very ambitious, but we firmly believe in disciplined growth: to those who say ‘this is your moment, seize the day’, I reply that our moment will still be here tomorrow, which is why we do not believe in growth at any cost. It’s not easy because, paradoxically, the difficult thing today is to resist the urge to chase after so many opportunities. But we prefer quality over quantity.

You are an independent company in a world of conglomerates. Has this disciplined growth been made possible by your independence?

Independence is very important to us. The company’s owner must understand that this measured growth is essential to our success. Customers today are looking for something special; they no longer buy luxury products ‘at random’, as they did in the past, and we must make the effort to provide them with something unique. We are very proud because this is precisely what we strive to do, and I think people who visit our shops can sense that.

You have a network of 77 flagship stores worldwide. Are you planning any new openings?

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We are ‘obsessive’ retailers: I believe that high-end retail will never go out of fashion because the shop is the perfect space to engage with people and tell customers our story. In a world where everything is ‘just a click away’, substance matters more than ever. We’re expanding our network of shops both by refurbishing existing ones and by opening new ones. Next on the agenda are London, with an opening on Bond Street, and Shanghai, where we’ll be opening our largest shop in the world (currently, the largest is in Tokyo, ed.).

Are there already positive signs coming out of China?

A great deal. We are well aware that this is a difficult time for the Western fashion and luxury industry in this market, but we are seeing growth.

And how are the other, more mature markets faring?

Our growth is widespread: Europe is the market where we’ve been operating for the longest time, but I believe there is still a great deal to be done. And we’re investing in the US: we’ve opened a new flagship store in New York and will soon be opening one in Hawaii.

You have a flagship store in Milan, Italia. Are you planning to open any more shops in our country?

Italia is a market that works well for us. We’d like to open a second shop in Milan and also set up in Rome. We’re actively looking for suitable premises.

Do you maintain a global wholesale presence?

At present, the wholesale segment accounts for 20 per cent, and I believe this share will decrease to make way for retail, but there are some multi-brand retailers that have a strong vision and identity, and we want to maintain our presence within them.

You have recently announced a collaboration with Hussein Chalayan. Over the years, partnerships have increasingly been used by companies as a marketing tool. What is your view on this?

For us, these are artistic collaborations, not ways of linking up with other brands. We want to shine a light on an artist’s work – in this case, a fashion designer.

To mark your 30th anniversary, you published a special edition of Acne Paper, your magazine. What role does it play in a world where magazines have lost readers and influence?

For us, it is a space for free expression, a way of giving voice to creativity. The same applies to the new Acne Paper Gallery, which we opened in 2025 in Paris, at the Palais Royal. They are an integral part of Acne Studios’ identity, where fashion plays a role but remains a collective endeavour.

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