Emotional maps

Remembering our ancestors, just a stone’s throw from the mighty oxen

In the hamlet of Cattabiano, houses and generations follow one another. In the memory of a poet and writer, the changes recorded in the land registry mingle with those of the heart and mind

Illustrazione di Chiara Morra

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

On the 1887 cadastral map, the hamlet of Cattabiano – situated halfway up the hillside, where the bed of the Parma stream is still wide enough to resemble a river, before it climbs towards Corniglio, gradually narrowing and changing in shape and character – does not look very different from how it is today: a tiny little square, one side of which is entirely taken up by the large old house belonging to the R. family, whilst the other side is lined with a few small houses leaning against one another, as if to support each other so as not to fall over.

All around, on every side, the R. estate stretches out, with its vast fields and neatly laid-out woods. The small square and the houses surrounding it seem to be the only places suited to the lives of men and women, landowners and sharecroppers. Beyond the ‘real world’ of the houses lies the Kingdom of Nature, where humans are merely guests.

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Everything seems just as it is now. But if I look more closely at the stark, precise outline – devoid of imagination – I realise that this is not the case, nor could it ever be. Even here in Cattabiano, where everything seems the same year after year, generation after generation, nothing has remained as it was in 1887, the year of the birth of Antonio R., the eldest son of Sesto and Countess Teresa Cavatorta della Valle di Castrignano, designated heir to the family’s estates and lands, forty-three years before his death.

The details on the map are both revealing and disappointing. Many features no longer correspond: the current layout of the manor house with its small outbuildings; the stable that closes off the farmyard towards the Fossa di Rì; the routes of the cart tracks leading to the main meadows – the Madone, the Canapaio, the Vigna Vecchia and the Piana del Massone; the village’s main road, altered in 1920 to facilitate access to the village. And then there is the building overlooking the small square known as Pellegrone, a massive early sixteenth-century stone structure with small windows and a broad roof of flat slate slabs. It was dismantled immediately after the last war to make way for the new church, which was more convenient for the R. family than the late seventeenth-century one—certainly modest, albeit with its own elegant simplicity, but deemed, without appeal, to be too far from the village and therefore expendable. Maria, the young widow of Antonio R., wanted to pray close to home, in comfort; for this reason, she had donated the Pellegrone, with its surrounding woodland—where a monumental oak tree at least three centuries old stood—to the Curia, so that the new ‘house of Our Lord’ might be built there. Thus, perhaps without realising it, for the sake of convenience Maria had decreed, along with the end of that memorable plan, the abandonment of that ancient little church, which, amongst other things, had also had the merit of preserving a late medieval watchtower, transforming it into a bell tower. The convenience of prayer sometimes entails harsh sacrifices, evidently.

I look at the map and find myself wanting to see more. Being used to Google Maps’ Street View mode has got me accustomed to an exploration full of surprises – even if virtual – and suited to the imagination – even if unrealistic – and I feel a sort of growing disappointment as I move from one point to another on the canvas-backed sheet of paper, from one meadow to the next along the route of the cart tracks. I’d like to see, back in 1887…

I follow the path that leads from the ‘vera’ of the houses up to the old church and the cemetery, where the R family’s dead are laid to rest. Just a few centimetres – six or seven hundred metres. To the right of the church, just before the perpetually shaded fork in the road leading to Pantera (the most mysterious place in that world dominated by greenery, perfect for the imagination of a child prone to melancholy and nourished by Salgarian exoticism), there lies a vast meadow offering the most striking view of the entire estate: a long stretch of stream, the dark patch of centuries-old chestnut trees around Orzale, the imposing vertical forest of Monte Fuso with the fortified and ruined peak of the Rocca di Belvedere above Rusino; further on, far from everything, motionless, the Alpe di Succiso.

The meadow has no name today; perhaps it never had one. In the document, it is listed as plot no. 180, and it holds a surprise: the outlines of two buildings that have now disappeared – one main and the other a service building – bring a vague family legend into line with the documentary evidence, which is clinical, precise and free from error.

Here stands the main house of the R. family, abandoned around 1870 for no apparent reason. Pellegrino R., Antonio’s younger brother, recounted that as a child, on a clear, frosty winter’s morning in 1910 – a memory etched indelibly in his mind – he had witnessed the demolition of this ancient building, which had already been largely dismantled so that the building materials could be reused in the extension of the house in the village – the one that would henceforth be their home. They brought down what was still standing using a team of oxen. Having secured the ropes in a veritable ritual—attaching them to the six beasts on one side and to the first column of the portico on the other—they waited for the animals’ strength to overcome the memory of those who had built those stone walls centuries earlier. Seen in this light, the incident seems like a rite of passage, the definitive settling of accounts still left unresolved. At some point, someone in the family had decided for everyone and had sacrificed the scene of events best forgotten. By demolishing the ancestral home, someone had sought to save future generations. What really happened and when, or whether it can all be traced back to the short, tormented and wretched life of Dositeo R., an epileptic, as recorded in the municipal census register, cannot be said or even surmised.

In Pellegrino’s memory, the event and its underlying reasons were beyond question. He, who as an adult would go on to become a steadfast example of poise, sound judgement and profound humanity for the whole family, remembered that winter ritual as a joyful celebration, something good for everyone. As if to say: we shall be happier, we shall always be alive, in another world far from here. But still in Cattabiano.

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