Men's fashion, stable exports. France is the first market

The men's fashion industry is preparing for Pitti Uomo in Florence (17-20 June, edition number 108) in a difficult market phase, which has prompted the organisers to renew fittings and content to stimulate interest and purchases. "Pitti Uomo remains a very interesting fair for both buyers and exhibitors," explained Pitti Immagine president Antonio De Matteis, presenting the fair in Milan, "The 2025 edition started with a series of announcements that in some markets have spread concern, but Pitti is there, it is healthy, and it will have a high level edition with the collections of 730 brands, 43% of which are foreign. Pitti Uomo, explained Antonella Mansi, president of the controlling holding company Centro di Firenze per la moda italiana, can now boast recognition as a historic brand of national interest, having obtained, as the first fair in Italy, registration in the relevant register of the Ministry of Business and Made in Italy.

It is the White House announcements that are worrying: 'The duties have had an impact from a psychological point of view, putting companies in a state of wait-and-see,' explains Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, 'but so far they have had no impact on sales. There is a part of the real economy that is ready to react, and men's fashion is holding up better than women's'.

Foreign trade figures for 2024 indicate exports of the menswear industry in line with the previous year (+0.1%) at 9.5 billion - dominated by France (+5.5% to 1.2 billion), Germany (-3.1% to 950 million), the United States (+1% to 893 million) and, surprisingly, China in strong growth (+20% to 777 million); imports, on the other hand, fell by 5.4% to 6.5 billion, penalised by China (-6.9% to 779 million), which became a case study: for the first time, imports and exports of men's fashion are equal.

Forecasts for the 2025 trend are still uncertain, even though the year is shaping up to be a minus sign. Will the grey climate be reflected in the arrival of buyers? "Many would not move from home, waiting for the collections to be brought to them," explains Napoleone, "but they will be in Florence thanks to Ice's incoming programme. Managing Director Agostino Poletto adds: "We have worked with the Ice offices to select international buyers and many independent retailers. We are aware that this is a time of transformation, in which we must invest and take risks". This is why Pitti has revamped the fittings, included new international collaborations, and chosen the theme Pitti Bikes. Among the guests who will parade are Issey Miyake with the Homme Plissé collection; the Koreans of Post Archive Faction and the young Niccolò Pasqualetti.