Micam and Mipel, companies aim at relaunch. At the fairs 20 thousand visitors

Footwear and leather goods are experiencing a very complex moment: for more than a year and a half now, they have seen their turnovers drop, partly due to the slowdown in orders from the big luxury brands. And the editions of Micam 100 and Mipel 128, which registered 20,000 attendees from 126 countries, represent an important test: earlier than in previous years for logistical reasons (the fair will host some Olympic disciplines and work is in progress), during the two events the exhibiting companies will (literally) reckon with the buyers, both Italian and above all foreign, to understand whether or not the long-awaited "turnaround" is desirable for spring-summer 2026.

According to data from the Centro Studi di Confindustria Accessori Moda, in the first six months of 2025 the footwear sector recorded a drop in both turnover (-5.6%, according to survey participants) and industrial production (-9.5% according to Istat, with an improvement to -7.5% between April and June). Exports showed a two-speed trend: the number of pairs exported rose by 3.2% in the first five months of 2025, but the value of exports dropped by 2.7% due to a slowdown in the former USSR and the Far East. The 15% tariffs, in force since 7 August, then, could have a negative impact on the United States, which in 2024 was the second market for exports in value (about 1.4 billion): "The tariffs could affect the purchasing decisions of American customers and directly on the margins of exporting companies should they decide to 'absorb' all or part of the new tariff," said Giovanna Ceolini, president of Assocalzaturifici. Micam is one of the reference fairs in the sector and hosts 870 exhibitors with foreign companies outnumbering the Italian ones by a few dozen.

There are about 200 brands on display at Mipel, including manufacturers of bags, accessories and small leather goods. The sector archived an 'unsatisfactory' first half of the year: turnover fell by -6.9% (in the sample of associates surveyed by the Confindustria Moda research office). With exports at -7.5% and the domestic market stagnating (-2.2%). "In a complex phase for the sector, it is essential to keep our points of reference steady and continue to create spaces for openness, discussion and business opportunities, especially in support of the small and medium-sized companies that form the backbone of the sector," commented Claudia Sequi, president of Assopellettieri.

Interviewed on the last day of the fair, the exhibitors gave "lukewarm" feedback on the events: "We are happy, we aim to expand in the next edition," said Marco Barachini, ad manager of the Vicopisano (Pi) footwear company that, in addition to the proprietary brand Luciano Barachini, has licensed the Jeannot and Menbur brands (this one for a few months) -. There was no shortage of important customers, even overall the influx was down. The fair, however, is an important moment of confrontation with insiders. I believe that our good results are the result of these synergies. We have to stop seeing other entrepreneurs in the sector as our competitors: we have to unite, make economies of scale and try to influence each other as best we can'. The Tuscan company operates only in the 'physical' market, with a network of multi-brand shops and a market that is 85% European: 'The average European consumer's willingness to spend on clothing has declined, but I don't believe that the market is in crisis: it must reorganise itself to be able to meet the needs of the B2b customer,' the CEO concludes.

He speaks of 'important contacts', but also of a 'complicated moment for the sector' Raffaele Carlino, president of Miriade Group (Francesco Biasia, V73): 'At Micam we made important contacts again, in particular abroad, in Europe. We liked it: it was worth investing in this platform, also because those who came were intent on buying'. Among the most receptive European markets in terms of acceptance of the spring-summer 2026 collections, Carlini points out 'Germany, Portugal, Spain, France. Certainly Saudi Arabia and South America are among the most interesting in general'. According to the president of Miriade, which also distributes Valentino brand bags, 'The difference today is the quality/price ratio. We have to repopulate the medium segment and also try to help small companies and artisans',