Milan Wine Week: wine in search of a new identity

Wine remains a staple in the shopping trolleys of the vast majority of Italians, but the way they choose and drink it is changing. According to NielsenIQ, which presented the figures ahead of Milan Wine Week, 84 per cent of households buy wine, with over 600 million litres sold, and the sector employs around 500,000 people. Furthermore, spending per purchase is on the rise: a sign that attention is shifting from quantity to quality and, consequently, to the service that accompanies the bottle.

This is where the discussion turns to the dining room. Federico Gordini, president of the event, points to around 8,000 unfilled positions in both Milan and Rome and sees the sommelier as an indispensable figure, whose role has shifted ‘from educating a passive customer to building their loyalty’. The key to winning that loyalty, according to the chairman, is the glass of wine: “It allows customers to sample the wine without committing to a whole bottle and, with a lower alcohol content, can serve as an alternative to after-dinner cocktails.” The glass-by-glass option, however, only works if the price is reasonable. “Excessive mark-ups,” warns Gordini, “cause you to lose customers,” especially as the now widespread price-comparison apps allow you to compare one venue with another in a matter of seconds, thus making it clear who is overcharging.

However, the picture regarding wine is not complete without also considering the market outside restaurants, where two complementary channels compete for the domestic market: wine shops and large-scale retailers. For Gordini, the former remain key because they ensure a direct relationship with the customer, whilst large-scale retail makes it possible to extend access to wine to a wider audience.

This mosaic of events is complemented by the ninth edition, from 17 to 25 October, featuring over 100 events taking place across the city. “The 2026 edition stems from a desire to bring together all the different facets of the sector,” says Gordini. The professional hub is the Milan Marriott Hotel, whilst the public meeting point is the Enoteca MWW at the Dazi dell’Arco della Pace, open for the entire duration with hundreds of wines, tastings, meetings with producers and the exhibition “Wine Changes Shape” on packaging design, organised in collaboration with Spazio Di Paolo.

The event kicks off on Saturday 17th at the Marriott with the Wine Hospitality Forum and the Wine Hospitality Awards, which recognise 50 wineries across ten categories. At 6 pm, the free opening reception moves to CityLife, with Carrefour as the main sponsor. The theme of the event takes shape on the 18th with the fourth edition of the Wine List Italia guide, edited by Alberto Tasinato, Ciro Fontanesi and Marco Reitano, head sommelier at La Pergola in Rome, and with a Grand Tasting bringing together one hundred sommeliers. On the 19th, the spotlight will be on the Stati Generali della Sala Italiana, organised in partnership with Alma and Fipe and dedicated to training, careers and mentoring, as well as the sixth edition of the MWW Awards, which recognise over 100 wine lists from restaurants and retailers.