Villages of Italy

Molise in ten stages along sheep tracks with sea views

From the bells of Agnone to the handicrafts of Frosolone, from the Morge Park in Pietracupa to Sepino where there is little Pompeii

by Laura Dominici

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

5' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

It was inhabited by the Samnites and the Romans, and walking along sheep-tracks, paths and alleys it is easy to trace the signs of the ancient civilisations that marked its past. Molise is a middle land of arcane beauty, with its mountains, hills and valleys, but also its many villages to discover. The region is cut by two rivers, the Trigno and the Biferno, which, as if drawn by a landscape architect, run parallel straight towards the sea, touching both provinces, Campobasso and Isernia. Amidst archaeological sites, excellent craftsmanship, musical traditions and villages overlooking the sea, here is a ten-stage itinerary to discover the essence of the region.

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In Scapoli in the home of the bagpipe

A small village at the foot of the Mainarde Mountains, Scapoli is known throughout the world as the home of the reed-pipe, the shepherds' symbolic instrument. The International Bagpipe Museum houses a rich collection of instruments from different countries around the world and tells the history and evolution of an ancient art that still lives on today thanks to local master craftsmen. Every year, at the end of July, Scapoli comes alive with the famous International Bagpipe Festival, which attracts musicians and visitors from all over Europe. But Scapoli is not just music: here you can also savour the genuine taste of tradition with the raviolo scapolese, stuffed with meat and cheese, a dish that is a symbol of Molise's mountain cuisine.

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From gastronomy to bells, the treasures of Agnone

Agnone is one of the most fascinating towns in Molise, famous for the Marinelli Bell Foundry, one of the oldest in the world, and for the Bell Museum, which recounts eight centuries of history and craftsmanship. The bells of Agnone resound in squares all over the world, from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to churches in South-East Asia, bearing witness to Molise's excellence. Alongside the art of bronze, Agnone also preserves an outstanding gastronomic heritage: its caciocavalli and dairy products are renowned for their quality and authentic flavour. Visiting Agnone means immersing oneself in a village where time seems to stand still, amid historic shops, ancient churches such as San Francesco and Sant'Emidio, and breathtaking views of Alto Molise. Not to be missed is the Ndocciata, one of the oldest and most evocative traditions of Molise. It is a spectacular parade of giant torches, a symbol of millenary faith and culture, that illuminates the main street of the town at Christmas time.

The neo-Gothic sanctuary of Castelpetroso and the cave of San Michele

A few kilometres from Isernia rises Castelpetroso, a village that guards one of the architectural wonders of Molise: the Basilica Minore dell'Addolorata, an imposing neo-Gothic sanctuary set in the mountains, a pilgrimage destination and place of deep spirituality. The story of the first apparitions dates back to 1888. The basilica often hosts special religious events and Christmas celebrations, including concerts of sacred music. Also nearby is Sant'Angelo in Grotte, a hamlet of Santa Maria del Molise with the impressive Grotto of St Michael Archangel, where frescoes from the school of Giotto can be found. A short distance away, nature lovers should visit the Cascate di Carpinone waterfalls, an unspoilt oasis where water and rock merge in a landscape of extraordinary beauty.

Frosolone, in the realm of scissors and knives

At an altitude of around 900 metres, Frosolone offers breathtaking scenery with centuries-old trees, crystal-clear ponds and white rocks rising majestically. But it is not only the scenic beauty that makes Frosolone a unique place: its renowned production of high-quality cheeses and dairy products, combined with the culinary tradition of white and black truffles, delights the most demanding palates. Strolling through the alleys of the historical centre, which still preserve the intricate medieval urban layout, one can see the architecture of the Baronial Palace, with its Renaissance loggia and the beautiful Baroque church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Since the earliest times, Frosolone has also been famous for its artisanal and artistic steel working with the production of scissors and knives, a tradition preserved and valorised in the Museum of Cutting Irons, as well as in the small family workshops where the traditional practice of forging has been handed down for centuries.

Oratino among the most beautiful villages in Italy

Situated on a rocky spur overlooking the Biferno valley, Oratino is listed among the most beautiful villages in Italy. Its cobbled streets, craft workshops and stone buildings tell of centuries of sculpture and painting. It is a place where art is still alive. Archaeological finds dating back to the Bronze Age have been discovered here, including a necropolis from the 6th century B.C. and megalithic walls on the hills surrounding the town and at the Rocca. In the town, on the other hand, the different neighbourhoods hark back to different eras. Among the attractions worth visiting, the Church of Santa Maria di Loreto stands out. From the church winds a tangle of streets and dwellings that were once home to stonemasons. Another must-see is the Ducal Palace, which impresses with its door decorated with acanthus leaf motifs and which overlooks the medieval part of the town.

To the Morge Park, Molise's little Matera

From Oratino, a visit to the Parco Regionale delle Morge (25 minutes by car), a uniquely beautiful area involving no less than 11 neighbouring villages, is well worthwhile. It is formed by enormous rocky conformations rising from the ground; it is a naturalistic and geological itinerary that contains fossil evidence of considerable interest. Of particular note are the villages of Pietracupa and Salcito, 10 km apart. The former is a particularly suggestive village carved into the rock, where the rock church is set in a limestone morgia creating a mystical and timeless atmosphere. The Morgia Pietravalle, also known as the 'morgia dei briganti' and located in Salcito, is called the 'little Matera' of Molise.

Civitacampomarano, capital of street art

Called the capital of street art, Civitacampomarano is a village that has been able to reinvent itself through contemporary art. Thanks to the work of street artist Alice Pasquini, a native of the place and now one of the most famous in the world, the ancient walls of the village have become an open-air gallery.

Every year, the CVTà Street Fest attracts artists and visitors from all over the world, transforming the village into a creative workshop. It is a demonstration of how art can restore life and beauty to inland places.

Venafro between Roman and Medieval History

With its rich history, Venafro is a town where the Middle Ages are still present in the urban architecture, flanked by significant Roman remains. The town is dominated by the Pandone Castle, an imposing manor that houses the Venafro Archaeological Museum, with exhibits ranging from prehistoric to Roman times. Strolling through the historical centre, one comes across the cathedral and numerous churches, guardians of works of art. Don't forget a visit to the Roman amphitheatre and the Roman aqueduct.

In Sepino to discover the 'little Pompeii'

In the heart of the Matese, in Sepino, the archaeological site of Altilia Saepinum is a true 'little Pompeii' built on the former Samnite settlement. Here, baths, forum, shops, insulae and a water mill narrate the daily life of Rome at its apogee. It is a magical place where the imagination can easily bring to life the hubbub of a Roman market or the relaxation of the baths. In addition to the site, you can visit the medieval village of Sepino, with its ancient churches and discreet charm.

The Pearl of the Coast: Termoli and the Swabian Castle

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Termoli is considered the coastal pearl of Molise. Its old town, enclosed by medieval walls, houses the Swabian Castle, the Cathedral of San Basso and the narrowest alley in Italy, a curiosity that attracts thousands of visitors every year. A city of sea, culture and good food, Termoli also boasts a special bond with the cartoonist Benito Jacovitti, born here in 1923, a brilliant and ironic author who left an indelible mark on the history of Italian comics. Fish lovers should try the brodetto alla termolese, a fish soup that fishermen still prepare with the unsold daily catch, a dish much loved by Lucio Dalla who used to stop to taste it before reaching the Tremiti Islands.

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