Wine PIlls

More and more wine in cocktails: is it a good choice or just a waste?

Forbidden snobbery towards the art of mixology: from Vermouth for the Negroni to Prosecco in the Spritz, it is OK to use wine as long as you don't use too much of it

Vino nella mixology? Una storia lunga e nobile, ma occhio agli sprechi

3' min read

3' min read

The world of mixology enjoys excellent health, while that of wine has seen better times. That said, wine remains, in different guises, an essential ingredient in the preparation of excellent drinks.

The cocktail industry is becoming part of mass culture and everywhere we go we can find cocktail bars that are also pizzerias, or gastronomic restaurants where drinks (even high-end, conceptual) are served in combination with great dishes. So this is no longer avant-garde, but an established, usual and frequent reality.

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The scenario is a relevant one, since in the preparation of a cocktail there is creativity, dexterity, colour, energy, while drinking a glass of quality wine has become a ritual that requires too much attention. To a large number of communicators I leave it up to them whether they should put their hand on their conscience for trying to elevate wine to an intellectual product while legitimising charges in the restaurant industry that are, in my opinion, totally unjustifiable.

In the light of this, the question is: can the use of wine in cocktail preparation be a good choice or is it wasted wine? I say that it is a good and right choice that should be encouraged provided, of course, that you do not use overpriced and very fine wines (or wines with many years of ageing behind them). For the rest, many of our wines can be used for blending and with excellent results, which I have already experienced thanks to the creativity of young, well-trained barmen.

Now, let us divide the world of mixology involving wine as an ingredient into three types: Vermouth, sparkling wine and red wine.

Let's start with the Vermouth that was officially born in Turin in 1786 (but history traces it back to a similar recipe already favoured by Hippocrates, imagine that) and is based on white or red with the addition of aromatic botanicals. Simple but well 'concocted' wines according to the unquestionable skills of the Piedmontese, great alchemists and gourmets to whom we can only bow as a gesture of thanks. Vermouth and 'mixed drinks' make broom; so says the Negroni, just to mention one of the most popular cocktails in the world and born here in Florence. But we can talk about Americano, Boulevardier or even more historic cocktails such as Bamboo and all those of American origin such as Manhattan, Brooklyn and so on. Without Vermouth, we would not be talking about this beautiful history of wine as an ingredient in mixed drinks. In short, the impact that Vermouth has had on the 'Cocktail Industry' has been disruptive and irrepressible.

But there are also cooler drinks based on sparkling wines such as Champagne Cocktail or the Moon Walk, as well as the current and very popular Spritz (it was actually made with white wine and water) prepared with Prosecco, which, except for my home, is popular in all squares and at all hours.

Cocktails involving red wines go back historically to the late 19th century, but let's not forget that even Barolo Chinato lends itself very well to a Manhattan or a Negroni. In short, using wine for cocktail preparation - and here I must repeat myself - seems right and proper, clearly with the shrewd wisdom of not sacrificing wines of great value or long ageing.

To conclude, to underline what has already been said, but not only, an illustrious quote: 'Without wine - which is the basis of Vermouth - the history of the cocktail industry would not be what it is. I am talking about a fundamental ingredient in the preparation of the aperitifs that make us recognisable throughout the world. Like the Negroni, for example'. Tommaso Cecca, Global Head of Camparino..

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