Island tales

Mother of silences and passionate conversations

by Antonio Calabrò

5' min read

5' min read

The island is woman. And mother. Fertile and welcoming. Open to the movement of the waves and the winds but also proud of its roots and memories. It has earthy colours and flavours, among the green of the vineyards and pines and the dry-stone walls covered in caper leaves. And it offers safe harbours, where you can take shelter depending on whether the sirocco or the mistral blows. It has a name that smacks of sea water, Salina, because of the ancient custom of harvesting salt in a basin that closes off a tongue of land looking eastwards. And its two mountains, seen from a distance, make one think of large, generous breasts. Motherly suggestion, indeed.

He watched it, on the horizon, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, during his summer holidays in the hills of Capo d'Orlando, as a guest in the aristocratic villa of the bizarre cousins Piccolo di Calanovella (Lucio, an elegant poet, appreciated by Eugenio Montale, was his favourite interlocutor in literary conversations in the shade of a large pine tree). And perhaps it was precisely from that panorama, so familiar and yet so distant, that it occurred to him to give Don Fabrizio, the protagonist of his still gestating 'Gattopardo', the title of Prince of Salina, thus disguising the arid land of Lampedusa of the family title in the most fascinating and green Aeolian island.

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A place of the soul, in short. Not least because the island, like almost everything that has to do with Sicily, is a metaphor for something else and somewhere else, according to Leonardo Sciascia's acute intuition. Capable, therefore, of giving space to a polyphony of voices and gazes.

Gazes like those of Massimo Troisi, who chose it as the main set for the film Neruda's Postman and in a house overlooking the bay of Pollara set the dialogues between the poet and the young man who, stimulated precisely by the poetic words, discovers the creative and painful force of a love story. A film of reckoning with life, shot while illness devours energy and time. A film of artistic and personal legacy, rich as it is in evocations and feelings that settle in a shared memory.

Anyone walking along the Santa Marina promenade passes, never without emotion, by a bicycle stuck in a film poster, as if it were a Mimmo Rotella decollage. And the voices of memories of that shy and generous artist still chase each other frequently, around the tables of the elegant aperitifs at 'Signum' and Capofaro and on the terraces of the island's houses, where the ancient ritual of slow, calm, relaxed conversations is repeated. And of silences.

The brothers Paolo and Vittorio Taviani were masters of this, in their house halfway up the coast above the sea at Lingua or as welcome guests on many other terraces, such as that of Lella Artesi, in Leni, a young director and wife of the island's district doctor, when in the mid-1970s, passionate words about politics and culture were exchanged, people fell in love and played at hoping for a better adulthood. Drinking amber and sweet Malvasia. The name of the town, after all, comes from 'lenoi', the Greek word for grape press, now a symbol in the town's coat of arms. Everything holds together, in a circuit of melancholy and emotion.

Behold, Salina is an island of conversations. And of intense silences, while watching the shooting stars, as we approach the August night of San Lorenzo and find ourselves together, eyes to eyes, savouring the subtle pleasure of unspoken words.

The mother island can be told by scrolling through a 'little book' of female names, Clara and Martina, Marina and Lucia, Sonia and Annunziata, Valeria and Maria.

The women who, over the course of more than a century, have held together families deprived of the energy of the men who emigrated to the Americas or even further afield, to Australia, to seek work and fortune after the crisis triggered, at the end of the 19th century, by the phylloxera that destroyed the vines. The women entrepreneurs, who over time have gone back to cultivating vineyards and expanses of capers, organising handicrafts, running businesses and opening hotels, bookshops and fashion and jewellery stores, governing a country as mayors and councillors, welcoming and educating other women who have arrived on the island from the Arab countries of the Mediterranean, thus revitalising districts otherwise destined for abandonment. Women who rediscover ancient recipes and make them ultra-modern, reworking the flavours of tomato extract, vegetable soups, golden wheat bread, freshly caught squid cooked in stews and sweet and sour rabbits, and intoxicating wine, as if returning to the hospitable banquets of the Odyssey.

What, then, is this sea that moves between islands? "The Mediterranean is a thousand things at once. Not a landscape, but countless landscapes. Not one sea, but a succession of seas. Not one civilisation but several civilisations piled on top of each other', as the luminous historian Fernand Braudel taught us. And Predrag Matvejevic, who could write about history as if it were poetry: 'The Mediterranean is a crossroads. For millennia, everything has been complicated, disrupting its own history'. Quintessence of diversity.

The liquid light heralding the sunset colours the sea pink in the eyes. From the terrace on the half coast of Malfa, the neighbouring islands are suspended over the water. And from the heights of Val di Chiesa, on clear evenings, on the horizon, beyond the blue mountains of Sicily, the silhouette of Mount Etna is silhouetted, sometimes illuminated by the glow of eruptions. A breeze lifts the white linen curtains, stirs the leaves of ripe lemons and the peach, white or carmine branches of bougainvilleas. One stands there, in the silence laden with memories, contemplating the waves chasing each other, pushed by a gentle mistral. Then, at the table, the tasty food reconciles with life and makes the night lighter. Sailing in dreams.

'Give me a boat,' said the dreamer man from José Saramago's 'Tale of the Unknown Island' to the king. And, having obtained his caravel, he climbed aboard, accompanied by a woman fascinated by adventure, and set sail. Because 'you have to get away from the island, to see the island'. And also because, in a metaphorical sense, 'we cannot see ourselves if we do not get away from ourselves'.

There is also this, of beauty, in going by sea, between Salina and the other Aeolian 'islands of the island'. The game of gazing at a distance between lands. And the discovery of similarities and differences. That moving away to find oneself again. Thinking of new landings. And returning. Every sailor has his Ithaca.

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