The new generation and the career prospects of craft work
A high value-added job, highly sought after in the luxury sector: by 2028 the market will need 75,000 figures. But the supply today does not reach 50 per cent.
by Silvia Paoli
Scandicci, Prada factory in Via Pisana. Interior day. 'You mustn't be in a hurry in luxury, if not you do other things, taps...'. Andrea Guerra is seated on the illuminated stage, behind him an image of working hands, real, pixelated orange-on-blue hands, and the reason for the meeting: 25 years of the Prada Group Academy, the Trade School that trains the younger generations in manufacturing in the leather goods, clothing and footwear sectors. Seventy per cent of the students who complete it successfully are hired by the company.
We talk about the weather, not the weather. The ability to transport the past into the present, and at the same time plan for the future, revolves around a crucial issue: companies, all of them, are struggling in the turnover of people working in manufacturing, because manual jobs have been abandoned to follow immaterial ones. This is a flight of hands, as well as brains, of hands that need to find their satisfaction in fulfilling and inspirational work.
For there to be a desire to learn a trade, a slow trade, it must be made clear to everyone that it is not a mere assembly of parts, but an attractive path to growth, in an environment that cares about its craftsmen.
The concept of the Prada Group CEO and executive director Andrea Guerra can be summed up in a syllogism: if training is the keystone of industrial craftsmanship, then industrial craftsmanship is the keystone of Made In Italy. Ergo: training is the keystone of made in Italy. "By 2028, more than 270,000 specialised figures will be needed in manufacturing, 75,000 of which in luxury alone, and it is estimated that today there is only 50% supply compared to demand. How do we bridge this gap? I see in young people a desire for a different life, for a better lifestyle, with less alienation. It is up to us to create the conditions for this, to make them understand that manual work is not just assembly, but teamwork, in which different aptitudes are tried out, in which ingenuity, what is human in doing a job, is valued. It is up to us to give content to our work'.
The view of Lorenzo Bertelli, chief marketing officer & head of corporate social responsibility Prada Group, is lateral and starts from personal experience. "When I chose the faculty to enrol in, my peers, from the most to the least, all wanted to do Bocconi" - for the record, he did Philosophy, and his favourite philosophers are Plato, Kant, Nietzsche. "Many ended up doing a completely different job from what they imagined. The myth was The Wolf of Wall Street. But today we are in a world where technology is replacing processes, which are easier to automate. In contrast, craftsmanship cannot be replaced. Technical and specialised trades are high value-added trades and will not disappear; on the contrary, they will be sought after and remunerated. Already last year in the US, the average wage of a blue collar worker was higher than that of a white collar worker. In ten and twenty years the paradigm will be reversed, manual labour will be more sought after and paid than white-collar work. That is why we are implementing an internal marketing path with human resources'. The people strategy is to put people at the centre, to work on their emotions, to involve them ('If they get excited about what they do, people will stay in the company,' says Rosa Santamaria Maurizio, who in the Prada Group deals precisely with people. And then internal talent must be cultivated and enhanced. A project desired by Lorenzo Bertelli is called Be Drivers of Change: it is a kind of competition inviting employees to propose ideas for solving practical or technological problems, or for improving working conditions. With unexpected positive results: Manuel, who attended the Academy in 2018, proposed 7 innovative ideas in 2025, placing second with a stunt that solved a security problem (top secret, of course).

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