Nicoletta Spagnoli: ‘Solidity and creativity: the formula that allows us to remain true to ourselves’

The latest source of inspiration, for the A-W 26-27 collection, was the energy of 1990s New York, which Nicoletta Spagnoli experienced and got to know first-hand: ‘In the upcoming collection too – the S/S 2027 collection that we will be presenting on Friday 25th – the focus will remain on a free, contemporary, feminine woman who uses fashion to express her personality, without being tied to a single style or a single code,’ explains the creative director and CEO of the Perugia-based company. “The link between femininity and tailoring will be emphasised, with bolder elements, such as suits, and softer ones, which are part of our brand’s DNA, featuring an even more contemporary fit. Colour is also part of our formula, and this season it will play an even more important role.”

In 2026, Nicoletta Spagnoli celebrated 40 years since, at the age of thirty, she took over the administrative and creative reins of the company founded by her great-grandmother Luisa and inherited from her grandfather Mario and her father Lino – a company which, in 2025, exceeded €120 million in turnover. Working alongside her is her son Nicola Barbarani, who has been executive vice-president since 2024: “For us, it is essential to remain true to who we are, whilst at the same time finding ways to evolve season after season,” he emphasises. For example, we place particular emphasis on the quality of materials and attention to detail, whilst always striving to offer a fair price. It is not easy to strike a balance, especially at a time as challenging as this for consumer spending: raw material costs have risen, and the price-cutting policies implemented throughout the year certainly do not help. They ought to be better regulated. It is precisely at times like these, however, that it becomes even more important to work carefully to ensure business continuity and safeguard our results, focusing on flexibility – in terms of the product, the brand’s identity and, above all, our relationship with customers.”

One element that has always characterised Luisa Spagnoli is precisely this closeness and dialogue with customers, built up over time thanks in part to an extensive network of shops, not only in major cities but also in smaller towns: ‘The climate of uncertainty we are currently experiencing certainly does not encourage shopping,’ she adds. “Furthermore, it must be said that by now everyone has everything in their wardrobes, and I believe that even the constant stream of new products from brands does not help people to understand what they really want. That is why I find it crucial to listen to our customers and show that we are there for them. And for us, our shops are the preferred channels for doing just that.”

Today, Luisa Spagnoli has 127 shops in Italia, 8 company-owned outlets abroad, as well as 49 franchised outlets and a presence in 100 multi-brand stores. Retail accounts for 64.5 per cent of turnover. “Italia remains a key market for us,” she adds, “and it is a top priority for us to ensure the quality of our retail network. I personally oversee the shop windows, deciding what to display and how, based on the weather, the time of year and the type of customer. But we are also focusing on international markets, where we have significant potential for expansion. We have a presence in Germany, the United Kingdom, Russia and Poland; the Middle East is a strategic area, although our shop in Dubai (which opened in the Dubai Mall in 2023, ed.) has experienced an inevitable slowdown due to local tensions.”

Meanwhile, online sales are also on the rise: “We don’t view retail and e-commerce as two separate worlds; quite the contrary,” continues Nicoletta Spagnoli. “Online sales are growing rapidly; they currently account for 5 per cent of turnover, and there is significant scope for growth here too. We’re focusing on our presence on marketplaces; for example, our partnership with Zalando is going very well, and we’ll have others in the future.”