Travel

Oulu, European Capital of Culture and Nature

The city is a true natural paradise and a treasure trove of Finnish and Sami culture. Its exceptionally varied offer can satisfy the many demands of visitors, who are 'enchanted' by unspoilt parks and jewel-like museums such as the Raahe

by Stefano Biolchini

Piazza del mercato estivo di Oulu, Crediti: Visit Oulu.

8' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

8' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Four 'Gs' are needed to describe it: young, joyful, tasty, green... very green Oulu. For those few who still don't know, the Finnish city, an hour's flight from the capital Helsinki, is together with Trenčín in Slovakia the European Capital of Culture 2026. Young because the capital of the province of the same name, which is mirrored on the mouth of the Oulujoki River on the shores of the Gulf of Bothnia, has an average age of less than forty for a population of just over 200,000 residents; joyful because, along with the whole of Finland, it boasts the record for being the happiest nation in the world, and the smiles, courtesy and hospitality of its inhabitants provide ample confirmation of this; tasty because its cuisine, sweetened with forest fruits and aromatic herbs from the tundra, is a true delight: and if, in the afternoon, you taste the 'Voisilmäpulla', literally small 'butter-eyed brioche', capable of melting and enchanting even the most demanding palates, or the black 'mallas leipa (malt bread)' embellished with seeds and likenes, you will be truly astonished at such Nordic refinements; green because the green of its forests is a true paradisiacal enchantment: and this is well known in the land of Father Christmas, who has his home further north, in Rovaniemi. But if all this is certainly not enough to describe its charm, colours and flavours, know that Oulu, the capital of culture, offers a year-round programme of events that is unbelievable.

Cartoline da Oulu, meravigliosa Capitale culturale europea 2026

Photogallery34 foto

Under the slogan with the three 'Cs', 'Cultural Climate Change' - which says a lot about how much attention is paid in Finland to the environment and its effects on the territory, which are particularly evident here, especially in Lapland - as many as 3,000 individual events, 520 cultural projects, 40 partnerships, 260 volunteers involved for as many as 40 cities involved in various capacities in the project with 16,000 square metres of works remaining. Staggering numbers in short, capable of increasing the quality of life day by day in the city, its district and province and beyond. And so we start with the aspect of the programme that rewards Nature and green lovers in more ways than one.

Loading...

Nature protagonist

A 320-kilometre-long route - passing through villages and towns with characteristic wooden houses coloured ochre, light blue or glowing rust-red - along the Baltic Sea (in Northern Ostrobothnia, to be precise, ed.) with the evocative name of the Flatland Route, forms the heart of the programme. It takes five to six days to cycle through the marvellous forests that stand out in compact green in this flat land, where birch trees dominate, outclassing even the many varieties of conifers that mark the territory with their pointed plumes. Among the trees, barbecue areas delight the patrons, who are also very young here, thanks to programmes that encourage survival courses in schools. And it is not so difficult in these woods, since the wood is supplied directly by the municipalities in all-weather storage cottages, and in the undergrowth, blue, red and black berries abound as never before, so much so that they fill the town markets with colour; and again, mushrooms of all kinds, for those who are able to recognise their goodness, are a superfine delicacy; but it is certainly not over yet: rivers and lagoons here are rich in freshwater fish. And if the bucolic picture still doesn't seem enough to you, you should know that in the huts, which are fully equipped with gigantic barbecue-braziers, where tasty salmon are grilled, musical accompaniment is also provided, with violinists, cellists and guitars playing the old folk scores, many of them expressly recovered recently. Which, in a fairy-tale setting, with water flowing everywhere and the coolness of the most reassuring greenery, is an irresistible invitation to dance and feast: the best and also romantic déjeneur sur l'herbe, here is, in short, a more than guaranteed certainty. Like kayaking or romantic walks along the banks of the rivers, and backpacking, adventure is guaranteed even for the most demanding hikers, since the smooth rocks that surround the rivers form a forest of rocks in the forest, while the rapids accompany the flow of the waters between the stone massifs with their noise. And with the sun, even sunbathing, unbelievable but true, lying on the rocks, will have its turn, with breathtaking panoramas all around that are lost in the sea. Dreamscape or idyll? I don't know, you do it!

Sami culture and beyond

However, if you want to take a break after the nature immersion, know that Oulu 2026, in addition to the wonderful and celebrated Lumo Light Festival Oulu, which is truly unmissable (with dates in November), will brighten up the darkest days, casting and reflecting glow on snow, bridges and houses. Because when the sun doesn't shine at these latitudes, we don't get discouraged and relaunch with a festival that is an enchantment for all ages, that is, when technology makes up for the nighttime darkness... (Let's not forget that Oulu is the headquarters and home town of Nokia, which has its futuristic yet traditional headquarters here: it is no coincidence that on top of its building there is an immense open-air sauna!).

Oulu then borders the land of the Sami, Europe's oldest indigenous population. A cultural unicum, made up of kindness and colours, of love for nature, celebrated in all its forms, and millenary traditions, for a population of non-settlers, mostly reindeer herders and fishermen, who branch out into the territories of Fennoscandia, known to most as Lapland, which stretches from central Norway to Russia, passing through Sweden and Finland. An immense and difficult territory, for a census population of 60 thousand people, who with their bright red traditional costumes, studded with white and blue embroidered squiggles, inhabit uncontaminated landscapes that include areas from Russia to Norway. Sensitive borders (the one with Russia in particular), which not for nothing are at the centre, with all their historical-evocative weight, of a special section of events dedicated by Oulu 2026 to the theme of peace, with artistic installations created for the occasion). But to return to the Sami, it will be their stories, at the centre of the events "Northern sounds, The sound of north", made up of folk music, myths, legends and tales ("Tales of a far route") that will make this fascinating and unmissable culture known, which unfortunately, numbers in hand, would otherwise risk disappearing. And precisely to the Sami and their language and culture is also dedicated the first opera, entitled Ovvllà, which will make its debut next January.

Brutalism and Alvaar Aaalto

Walking around Oulu, two buildings are striking for their architectural spectacularity: one is the theatre, built on the artificial island of Vanmann, and the other facing it is the library. Both buildings, of late Brutalist architecture, are in an advanced state of restoration, and by 2026 they will be a full part of the festival scene. But for fans of the genre, the visit certainly doesn't end there: it is in the polar district of Meri-Toppila, in the process of being reclaimed from industrial structures, that one finds a ruin of an old silo. The building significantly bears the signature of the most important architect of the North, the Finnish Alvar Aalto, and is also his first concrete creation of industrial architecture. Abandoned for a long time, this fascinating structure has a unique ambience, rising majestically to a height of 28 metres and with a rectangular base, almost as if it were an imperial-era basilica! The structure was built at the limit of the engineering capabilities of the time, in 1931, and until a few years ago was in danger of being torn down, only to be acquired and saved in 2020 by the Factum Foundation and Skene Catling de la Peña. What the purchasers describe as a "concrete cathedral" is now undergoing renovation (and although the restoration work poses obvious structural limitations), it will host the next edition of the Mies Van Der Rohe Award, as well as a site-specific exhibition dedicated to Marina Abramoviclo and multiple multimedia initiatives, with film screenings such as Metropolis. The evocative remnant of industrial architecture, which is not part of the buildings constructed by Aalto in the capital's surroundings (protected as part of the Unesco heritage), thus rightfully enters among the most relevant architectural testimonies of the past century, as well as of the rich Finnish architectural heritage, whose greatest exponent is Aalto.

Raahe, for a nostalgic dip into history

The distance between Oulu and the small town of Raahe is about 'an hour's drive. The typical wooden houses of the centre, perhaps the best-preserved in Filnlandia (a harmonious concentration that traces the grid of Claes Clesson's mid-1600s town plan, which went up in smoke with the devastating fire of 1810) line the straight streets to the harbour. Behind the palisades of these 'doll's houses' are manicured gardens with flowers of the most varied hues, making them playful artist's palettes, amidst the apple trees laden with apples and the piles of wood plumped up into protective half-buried hovels. In the windows of these houses, embroidered curtains and trinkets, small lamps and, above all, curious little ceramic dogs of a distinctly British kitsch make a fine display. Across the squares, at the corner of the major, the 'Tradehouse' restaurant has stopped time: waitresses in lace and 19th-century dresses wander among Victorian tables and old Edwardian china. For in Raahe, the watchword seems to be finding lost time, anchoring itself in the nostalgic vestiges of a past that made this town a rich and renowned trading port. When the straight streets, crossed by lovely public gardens with manicured flower beds, end at the sea, almost 'beached' and solitary, stands the Raahe Museum building. On the quay, a beautiful early 20th-century boat stands anchored with its shiny brasses and light wood mouldings freshly lacquered. On the ground floor of the small museum - which is a treasure trove of the most varied collections of 19th-century mirabilia from all over the place and assembled almost in bulk, the colourful carved wooden remnants of the old church's decorative ensemble, attributed to Michael Balt and saved by chance from the fury of the flames, narrate passages from the Gospel with naive yet suggestive interpretations of the life of Christ and some of the saints. One decoration in particular - misplaced among the remains of the baroque wall ornaments of the temple that went up in flames - immediately catches the eye: it is a curious sculpture of a saint with bare breasts gushing with milk; it is the mysterious attraction of the entire mosaic reconstruction. Could it be that it is St Agatha, patroness of women and their breasts, martyred for her devout faith? Or is it the heritage arrived at by sailors of a Latin Mater Matuta or of the crazed Greek Ino, sister of Semele and aunt and wet-nurse of Dionysus? This figurehead in a church attended by old sailors would deserve to be better studied and the whole, truly evocative and poetic, should be philologically better articulated.

But this is only the ground floor, where remnants of ancient sailing ships, maps, objects of everyday use, and so on and so forth are counterbalanced by religious images found by chance, portraits of sailors and officers, coins from everywhere and old photographs. On the upper floor taxidermy and animals preserved in glass and formaldehyde jars are mirrored on display cases with old souvenirs from Europe's most remote colonies inside. A varied pot-pourri, juxtaposing old sewing machines, the trousseau of great-grandmothers, colourful beaded handbags, hats and evening gowns mounted on mannequins at the spinet, musical scores, jewellery, toiletries, rifles and knives, and there is even a reconstruction of a soldier lying in his white robe with a complex system for camouflaging his rifle, placed on a sort of light sled, which allowed him to move while lying in the snow. How and especially from where and when this endless cornucopia of objects was collected and assembled is unknown. What is certain is that this is an extraordinary collection in terms of number and provenance, pervaded by the nostalgic charm of Gozzani's memory: good things, often in very bad taste, capable of recounting a lost world, certainly more human, and which makes this museum a must-see and Oulu and its surroundings a truly fairy-tale destination!

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...

Brand connect

Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti