Milan Fashion Week

Cuts, volumes, materials: Matteo Tamburini's new vision of fashion

The creative director of the rubber brand talks about his sources of inspiration and his great passions, from electronic music to the art of Carla Accardi and Anish Kapoor.

by Massimiliano Sortino

Matteo Tamburini. ©Laura Fantacuzzi e Maxime Galati Fourcade

6' min read

6' min read

DISTINCTIVE SIGNS OF MY STYLE

I have a very simple, almost essential style. I like to play with cuts, volumes and materials. A blue double-breasted blazer, chino trousers in natural tones and a white T-shirt are a kind of uniform for me. I love to wear it with a pair of minimal design shoes such as the classic Tod's suede loafer, which I alternate with Off-White trainers or leather lace-ups, but only on the most formal occasions ( tods.com; off---white.com ).

Loading...

MY STYLE ICON

David Byrne, because he has an innate elegance and a very personal style: casual and classic at the same time.

THE VIEW THAT INSPIRES ME

The one from the window of my space inside Tod's Milanese style office. Sitting at my desk every morning and having Villa Necchi Campiglio, Piero Portaluppi's masterpiece that fuses Art Deco and Italian Rationalism, before my eyes, gives me calm and serenity ( fondoambiente.it/luoghi/villa-necchi-campiglio ).

THE OBJECT FROM WHICH I WOULD NEVER SEPARATE MYSELF.

A US Navy key fob that I bought many years ago in a small vintage shop during a holiday in New York. For me it is not only an essential item to avoid losing my house keys, but also a real good luck charm.

My favourite room in my home .

Over the years, the living room has become a place for meeting and sharing. I like to invite friends over for an aperitif and spend a carefree evening chatting and laughing.

The BEST SOUVENIR I HAVE TAKEN HOME FROM A TRIP

In a Tokyo bookshop I managed to find 5 x 7, a collection of photographs taken in the 1970s by William Eggleston. A work in which there are also black and white images, a rarity for this artist who is considered the father of colour photography (a copy of the book is available at Micamera bookshop and can be purchased online, 150 euros, micamera.it ).

Le pagine interne del libro fotografico “5 x 7”, di William Eggleston.

A RECENT DISCOVERY .

I really like science fiction films. When I have time I go to the cinema, but when I can't I love to watch them on streaming platforms (in Trieste, from 29/10 to 3/11 the Trieste Science+Fiction Festival is on, with meetings, screenings and readings on the subject, sciencefictionfestival.org ).

Locandina di “Dune: Part Two”. ©Warner Bros

THE LAST PIECE TO BE ADDED TO MY WARDROBE IS THE ONE TO BE TRANSMITTED

Two Tod's Di Folio shopping bags: one in soft dark brown nappa leather and one in canvas. They are a timeless classic that I would one day like to pass on (Di Folio shopping bag in nappa leather, €1,600, tods.com ).

Shopping bag Di Folio, in nappa (1.600 €), TOD’S

LAST MUSIC I DOWNLOADED.

I like listening to different genres, I am very curious. These days I love avant-garde electronic music. My favourite artist is Rival Consoles, who mixes contaminations and styles such as ambient, shoegaze and techno (the musician's upcoming concerts include 18/9 in London, 19/9 in Paris and 26/9 in Berlin, rivalconsoles.net ; spotify.com ).

Vinile dell’album “Now Is”, di Rival Consoles (26,99 €, su amazon.it).

LAST OBJECT I PURCHASED AND LOVED .

Venini's Bolle vases designed by Finnish artist Tapio Wirkkala in 1966. I am fascinated by their teardrop shape and unusual, almost jarring colour combination (from €1,690, venini.com ).

Vaso Bolle in vetro di Murano, disegnato dall’artista finlandese Tapio Wirkkala, VENINI (1.890 €).

And THE NEXT ONE I'M TAKING

A black and white portrait of David Wojnarowicz photographed by Peter Hujar, one of my favourite photographers. He managed through images to tell the rebellious and underground spirit of 1970s New York (the series Peter Hujar: Portraits in Life and Death is on display until 24/11 at the Istituto Santa Maria della Pietà, as a collateral event of the Biennale in Venice, labiennale.org ).

my favourite beauty products.

A soothing tonic by Laroche-Posay that I use at night before going to bed, a niacinamide and hyaluronic acid mask by Abib, and Santal 33 perfume by Le Labo ( larocheposay.co.uk; abib.com; lelabofragrances.com ).

Eau de parfum Santal 33, LE LABO (90 €).

LAST MEAL THAT REALLY IMPRESSED ME

The flavours of La Torre restaurant in Monselice, in the province of Padua, where I dined two evenings in a row. A place where time seems to stand still and where you can rediscover traditional Veneto dishes made with seasonal ingredients, such as bavette with cacioricotta and lemon and fried asparagus and artichokes ( ristorantelatorremonselice.it ).

IN MY Fridge NEVER LACKS .

A bottle of beer, Fuet, the typical Catalan salami, and a bottle of Acqua di Nepi (Fuet, 5 euro on Spanish products.com; Acqua di Nepi on sale online, 10 cases of 12 glass 0.75 litre bottles of natural effervescent, 132.27 euro, acquadinepi.it ).

AN UNFORGETTABLE PLACE WHERE I HAVE RECENTLY BEEN

In February, I spent a long weekend at the Tenne Lodges & Chalets in Racines, South Tyrol. As it was snowing, I spent a long time in the spa. A very relaxing experience that I look forward to repeating (rooms from 332 euro, tenne-suedtirol.com ).

La infinity pool della Spa del Tenne Lodges & Chalets a Racines, Alto Adige.

The BEST GIFT I HAVE GIVEN .

A few years ago, on returning from a trip to California, I gave my partner an engraving of the Golden Gate accompanied by a love letter.

And THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ONE I HAVE RECEIVED.

Pau, the dachshund my partner gave me when I turned forty.

If I HAD TO LIMIT MY SHOPPING TO ONE DISTRICT OF THE CITY I WOULD CHOOSE .

Without a doubt the Marais, in Paris. I love getting lost in its streets, shopping at Pretty Box and Thanx God I'm a V.I.P., two vintage shops off the tourist map, and stop for lunch at Anahi, where chef Mauro Colagreco revisits the great classics of Argentinian cuisine in an unexpected way ( prettybox.fr; thanxgod.com; anahi-paris.com ).

L’interno del ristorante Anahi, a Parigi. ©Francis Amiand / H&P

A PLEASURE I COULDN'T GIVE UP .

When I go to Pesaro, the town where I was born, I like to spend time with my sister, my parents and old friends (until 13/10, the Pescheria Visual Arts Centre in Pesaro hosts the site-specific exhibition project In the Rules of Beauty, pesaromusei.it ).

La “Sfera Grande” di Arnoldo Pomodoro, in piazzale della Libertà, a Pesaro. ©CC BY

The ARTIST I WOULD COLLECT IF I COULD .

Carla Accardi, one of the first Italian artists to devote herself to abstractionism and an activist in the fight for gender equality. I love all her paintings, especially I Segni, those oblong black or coloured shapes that stand out on the sheets of sicofoil and make the work three-dimensional ( galleriaminini.it ).

The BOOK I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO WRITE .

The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexandre Dumas, which I have reread at least three times and from which I learnt that patience is a virtue and revenge is a dish best served cold (EUR 14.50, ibs.it ).

The HOTEL I LOVE MOST

The Aman in Venice for its location on the Grand Canal, historic salons and frescoed rooms. And the Soho House in Istanbul, where the interiors bear the signature of Aaron David Clarke, a dear friend whose distinctive traits and attention to detail I recognise (Aman Venice, rooms from 2,530 euros per night, aman.com; Soho House, membership from 132 euros per month, sohohouse.com;

Matteo Tamburini. ©Laura Fantacuzzi e Maxime Galati Fourcade

 adcatelier.com ).

If I DID NOT LIVE IN MILAN I WOULD LIVE .

In Sicily, in Ortigia, the oldest and in my opinion most beautiful part of the city of Syracuse, or in Paris, where I lived for many years when I was younger and to which I always like to return ( visitsicily.info; parisjetaime.com ).

THE ACCESSORY I LOVE MOST

The New Era baseball cap I wear every day in both winter and summer ( neweracap.eu ).

SITES OR APPS THAT I USE MOST

I am a serial collector of 1950s and 1960s furniture and vintage clothes. The first thing I do every morning when I wake up is check Artsy, Ebay and Pamono for unmissable pieces to buy ( artsy.net; ebay.it; pamono.it ).

MUSEUM I FIND MOST INTERESTING AT THE MOMENT

The Madre di Napoli, where one can admire the mirrored sculptures of Anish Kapoor, one of my favourite artists (until 30/9 the museum is hosting the exhibition Vai, vai, Saudade, curated by Cristiano Raimondi; madrenapoli.it ).

If I DID NOT DO WHAT I DO I WOULD .

The pianist. My biggest regret is that I never had the time to learn to play a musical instrument.

Copyright reserved ©
Loading...
Loading...

Newsletter

Notizie e approfondimenti sugli avvenimenti politici, economici e finanziari.

Iscriviti