Peace, relaxation and nature: where the sea offers wonders in winter
From Portofino to Romagna, from Puglia to Pantelleria: a guide to hotels and experiences to enjoy even as the first chill of winter sets in
Key points
The misty reflections on the water, the cool sand free of parasols and sun loungers, a hot cup of tea replacing cocktails at sunset. The silence broken only by the sound of the wind, the tranquillity of the seasons as the year draws to a close. In autumn and winter, the sea offers a different experience, yet one that is increasingly cherished, especially by those seeking moments dedicated to their own wellbeing. And even though most accommodation providers close their doors whilst awaiting spring, there are those who choose to continue welcoming this different clientele and to focus wholeheartedly on the deseasonalisation of tourism – one of the key ways to tackle the issue of overtourism. All this whilst off-season rates make even luxury accommodation more affordable.
Along the beaches of the Tyrrhenian Sea
In Portofino, for example, the 14 suites at the Belmond Splendido Mare are available throughout the winter, providing a comfortable base from which to explore the surrounding area, including hikes along the Via dei Mulini, a circular route between Paraggi and Gassetta dotted with industrial relics from the ancient Republic of Genoa, or the more challenging Via dei Tubi, which follows the aqueduct built in the late 19th century to carry water from the Caselle spring to Camogli. Nearby Rapallo also offers interesting, more urban walks amongst its famous Art Nouveau villas: in keeping with the style (and open all year round) is the Excelsior Palace Portofino Coast hotel, a meeting place for celebrities since 1901 and home to Italia’s first casino, whose licence was transferred to San Remo in 1924.
Much more recent are the Principe (built in 2010) and Principessa (which opened last April) – similar in name and address, but under different ownership – in Forte dei Marmi. They are the only five-star hotels to remain open even after the summer season has ended, offering a distinctly contemporary experience, complete with spacious spas and fine-dining restaurants: the Lux Lucis at the Principe, led by chef Valentino Cassanelli, boasts a Michelin star. The two hotels are situated in the Roma Imperiale district, which is full of historic villas to explore, best viewed from the little bridges that span the Fiumetto.
From the Venetian Lagoon to Riccione
Crossing over to the other side, along the Adriatic coast, the more introspective amongst you will find autumn in the Venetian lagoon simply marvellous, whilst Venice itself finally becomes more accessible during the colder months. The tranquillity becomes almost palpable at Venissa, a wine resort on the island of Mazzorbo, at the northernmost tip of the lagoon, and another experience not to be missed is waking up on the water aboard Aqua Venice, a private floating water loft (which can also be taken out on the water on request) that can accommodate up to six people. Back on dry land, however, you’ll find yourself amongst the tree-lined avenues of Camping Fusina, at the mouth of the Naviglio Brenta in Marghera – a site designed by Carlo Scarpa in 1956 – from where you can reach Venice via a dedicated speedboat service.
As you travel down the coast, the first chill in the air lends even more charm to two iconic buildings on the Romagna Riviera: the Grand Hotel in Rimini, a favourite of Federico Fellini, forms part of the city’s open-air museum dedicated to the director (every Tuesday at 4 pm, one of his films is screened at the Cinemino in the Palazzo del Fulgor), to whom the hotel has dedicated the ‘A tavola con Federico!’ menu, featuring red mullet, risotto, salt cod and zuppa inglese; in Riccione, the historic Grand Hotel Des Bains offers special treatments at its spa, which features a shallow pool of hypersaline water where you can listen to music underwater.
