Peter Hawkings leaves Tom Ford

Peter Hawkings' unexpected farewell to the Tom Ford brand, which he had been heading for less than a year. This was announced by the Estée Lauder group, to which Tom Ford in 2022 had sold 'his creature', the brand founded in 2006 after his departure from Gucci, for $2.8 billion. The released note speaks of a replacement to be announced in the near future and the presentation of the spring summer 2025 collection to be presented in Milan in September, presumably during fashion week.

It was at Milan Fashion Week, just under a year ago, that Peter Hawkings made his debut as creative director of Tom Ford, bringing to the catwalk a celebration of sexiness that the creative man (he is a designer, but also a director) had already been able to interpret in his time at Gucci. In fact, Peter Hawkings was and still is an admirer of Tom Ford - he even did his thesis on him at Central St Martins in London - and a long-time collaborator: he worked alongside him for 25 years. When his name was mentioned for the leadership of Tom Ford's new course, it seemed a natural choice. Even to him: 'It's as if I had prepared my whole life for this moment (...) it's a natural evolution, both for the brand and for me,' he said in an interview with Vogue. The clothing and accessories line is part of the Zegna group, which already produced Tom Ford menswear under the creative direction of Hawkings in 2006. In the first quarter of 2024 (last available data: the first half year will also be released in September) the business unit dedicated to Tom Ford generated revenues of 65 million and the group plans to double the number of Tom Ford branded stores.

"I want to thank Peter for his cooperation since Tom Ford fashion became part of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group," said Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford fashion since July 2023. Together with his team, Peter has contributed to this important initial phase of development. I wish him all the best for his next chapter'.

The farewell has not been explained, but it is contextualised in a moment of general slowdown in the luxury world, which, in 2024, according to the most optimistic estimates could reach +4% in revenues (source: Bain&Co.) and thus far from the growth rates to which brands - and shareholders - were accustomed.