Outerwear

Peuterey defies climate change. Revenues at 69 million and profitability on the rise

by Silvia Pieraccini

3' min read

3' min read

Caught between the market slowdown and the climate change that makes heavy garments less desirable, companies specialising in down jackets and coats are questioning their stylistic choices and changes to their collections in order to meet new consumers and hold on to old ones.

The Tuscan company Peuterey, which belongs to the Lusini family and is positioned in the premium segment, is preparing to confirm last year's results (the balance sheet will close on 31 March 2025) and to launch the Première line on the market next spring-summer, with its formal and sartorial taste, which will then be expanded in autumn-winter.

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'This is a collection that looks less at sportswear and more at clothing,' explains President Francesca Lusini, 'and which meets the current climate change. The spring-summer sales have given good feedback, and now we are continuing with the autumn-winter collection, which focuses on woolen fabrics, from jackets to coats'. Alongside this new line, the main collection has also been enriched with transeasonal garments, suitable for seasons that are not too cold or very hot, thanks to garments that are lighter than the 'traditional' ones and often made of innovative, high-performance technical materials.

For Peuterey, which has always been accustomed to being identified with down jackets and parkas, this is a 'gentle' transition towards the total look: no intention of abandoning the segment that has made it grow and prosper, but a slow evolution towards new horizons, including the younger ones that will be declined in the existing Plurals line, a creative laboratory that makes use of collaborations with designers and show business personalities.

The Peuterey Group ended 2024 (as of 31 March) with 69 million in sales and a gross operating margin (ebitda) of €9.4 million, up from 10 to 14 per cent. 'We are satisfied with the resilience recorded in an environment that still shows many signs of uncertainty, from high interest rates to wars and environmental disasters,' says Lusini, 'and above all we are pleased with the improvement in margins. The increase in margins is linked, explains ceo and cfo Tiziano Bonacchi, to the improvement in efficiency: 'The management of the supply chain has been optimised in terms of pricing and quantity,' he says, 'and we have been able to count on the fall in the cost of transport, with the price of international containers falling considerably. On garment prices, however, Peutery has acted little, with increases that the company describes as 'minimal'.

'At a time when the luxury segment is in crisis and generation Z is no longer as dynamic as before,' Francesca Lusini emphasises, 'we are positioned in a segment that rewards us, with a value-for-money product. The work we are doing in terms of quality and price positioning has proved successful'. Hence the resilience also in the next budget, which foresees stable revenues at 69 million, 40% of which are realised abroad. Germany is suffering and is no longer the leading market, overtaken by Korea where the brand is distributed in 700 shops. There are no retail projects on the horizon (a single-brand store in Milan remains) and production is carried out in the company's own factory in Bulgaria, which employs 300 people, as well as in China and Italy, where part of the clothing and small outerwear production is made.

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