Portofino evolving between super-luxury hotels and democratic spritzes
Late summer days are ideal for discovering or returning to one of the jewels of the BelPaese and its rich territory
by Sara Magro
4' min read
4' min read
Portofino seems to stand still in time: the promontory with the millionaire villas, the piazzetta with the colourful little houses, the little harbour divided between the gozzi and the mega yachts. Even the habits seem the same: the usual spritz at Bar Ugo, seafood risotto at Trattoria Tripoli, VIPs dining at the Gemelli. Yet the Tigullio village has changed a great deal in recent years, and could be considered a model of the Italian high holiday resort in terms of conservation, authenticity and management of overtourism. Whether there is a Madonna or a Ferrari rally in the Piazzetta, Portofino does not fear invasion: its capacity is limited (the road ends there and there is only one public car park) and when it reaches it, it closes its doors. The only alternative is to arrive by sea or on foot. As far as conservation is concerned, the area has been protected since 1935 with the establishment of the Portofino Park, which includes the regional nature park and the protected marine area, in the expectation that it will soon become a true national park. Authenticity is also saved. Everyone expects boutiques, fabulous jewellery shops and VIP villas in Italy's most luxurious village, but without residents, a place loses its daily life, its rhythm and its soul. To avoid depopulation in quiet periods, the counterbalance to overcrowding in the high season, mayor Matteo Viacava launched a campaign last August to promote rents of 175 euro per month, with the intention of increasing the 355 inhabitants and keeping the village alive all year round.
Plans for a holiday in style
.In 2018, Lvmh arrived and, by acquiring the Belmond group, became the owner of the historic hotel Splendido, upstream, and the Splendido Mare in the Piazzetta, renovated in 2020. And with the new course it has raised the level of catering by bringing in the Cerea brothers, among the very first Italians to take the three Michelin stars. In 2021, Carlo Cracco also opened his restaurant on the quay, and this summer Italy's most famous flower designer - Vincenzo Dascanio - opened a bistro at the end of the calata, where he serves Pesto Champagne with gin, pine nuts and basil. The purchase in 2024 of the 'castle of Portofino' (Villa San Giorgio) by the Lebanese financier Nadim Nashi, partner of Four Seasons, also opens up new perspectives. What will he do with it: dream flats? Another ultra-luxury hotel?
The Grand Hotel and Castle
.The most eagerly awaited novelty this year is the completion of the Splendido after two years of work directed by architect Martin Brudnizki, who modernised the interior with wicker details, Murano glass lamps, bucolic trompe l'oeil. Everything is new and never exaggerated: the rooms reduced from 69 to 52 to give more space, the Baratta Sedici bar, the swimming pool with its orange parasols, the Grill with its tables set on a panoramic terrace and the Ligurian menu from the oven, grill and vegetable garden of the local eco farm La Portofinese.
And the Dior spa, the first in Italy, with cutting-edge treatments, a make-up and hair area and a pleasant relaxation area on the rooftop. All around, a Mediterranean forest overhanging the harbour in colours saturated with sun and light redesigned by landscape architect Marco Bay. In July, also by Belmond and again with interiors by Brudnizki, opened Villa Beatrice, an exclusively booked château (maximum 10 guests) with butler, private descent to the sea (and those who know the place know that this is a very rare privilege in these parts) and a Stendhal syndrome view.
Paraggi si fa chic
The designer revolution has gone as far as Paraggi, the tiny inlet with emerald green water, just before Portofino. Within a couple of years, its little beaches - for families at the Bagni Bosetti, for socialites at the Carillon and for 'sciuri' at the Bagni Fiore - have changed. No more luisone and shocking pink popsicles, famous Milanese and international brands have landed here too. The Vesta restaurant and Dolce & Gabbana fabrics on one side, Dior umbrellas and Langosteria's (delicious) dishes on the other: gazpacho with raw prawns, fritto misto asciutto, paccheri al pesce e pomodoro arrive at your table, while you look for a sea view among iron toys, art books and exotic shells. Langosteria is the Italian proof of a brand that knows how to be original wherever it arrives, from St Moritz to the Ligurian Riviera, from Porto Cervo to London and Miami, where it has announced new openings.
