Power and lightness for the skin: new face serums under the microscope

Forty years after the launch of Capture Totale, which introduced the use of liposomes as carriers of active ingredients, comes a new breakthrough with Dior Capture Le Sérum, which uses pro-penetrating exo-liposomes to prolong the duration of diffusion and increase the degree of penetration by 33 per cent. Inspired by regenerative medicine, which recognises the importance of oxygen transport to improve the quality of the skin and its reconstruction processes, and starting with a plant biopolymer, Dior Laboratories have developed OX-C Treatment technology, which optimises oxygen transport. Not least, the presence of revitalising lily extract and a dipeptide with redensifying properties (30 ml, €145).

RELIEVING AND DEFINING THE OVAL

Another example of how luxury skincare is sensitive to the environment comes with Sensai Lift Focus Essence, which employs Perilla leaf extract from sustainably cultivated aromatic plants (i.e. producers do not use chemical products and fertilisers). The formula is completed with a moisturising agent capable of adhering perfectly to the skin and elastic polymers for a remodelling action that follows facial expressions (40 ml, €185).

FOCUS ON MATURE SKIN

È stato riscontrato che nelle pelli mature i tre sistemi che ne regolano salute e bellezza (cutaneo, vascolare, immunitario) non siano solo indeboliti, ma anche penalizzati da una scarsa comunicazione. Sisley Paris propone così Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-âge Sérum Essentiel Longévité, un unico prodotto per affrontare più problematiche. Unisce, infatti, una frazione di ß-glucani di origine biotecnologica per stimolare la produzione dei fattori rigenerativi indispensabili per la loro connessione; incrementa la resistenza della pelle e l’uniformità del colorito con l’alga rossa e un duo di fitoattivi lenitivi e antiossidanti; frena l’invecchiamento sfruttando un nuovo estratto di ginkgo che rafforza il sistema immunitario, e infine restituisce freschezza e luminosità grazie alla vite rossa (30 ml, 498 €).

PURE GOLD FOR HORMONAL BALANCE

Also new for La Prairie's Pure Gold line: designed to counteract the effects of hormonal changes during the menopause, it becomes more effective with the introduction of the Advanced Pure Gold Diffusion System. The formula of Pure Gold Radiance Concentrate thus includes sustained-release glabridin (anti-inflammatory), Exclusive Cellular Complex™ that promotes cell turnover and collagen production, Meno Complex with gold and peptides that boosts hyaluronic acid and ceramides (30 ml, €900).

To counteract stress

To increase resistance to both internal and external stressors, Prada's Augmented Skin The Serum combines Adapto.gn Smart Technology™ (inspired by the innate qualities of adaptogens) with powerful dermo-actives such as low molecular weight hyaluronic acid with plumping action, peptides to promote the production of collagen and elastin, and squalene as an antioxidant. Result: a revitalising effect that refines the skin's texture, enhances radiance and improves firmness (30 ml, €385).

A 24K ANTIOXIDANT INFUSION

Against the signs of ageing caused by stress and exposure to environmental factors, Clé de Peau Beauté Precious Gold Vitality Serum is formulated with a complex infused with pure 24K gold, known for its antioxidant properties. It is complemented by a vitamin A derivative (retinol ACE) which, thanks to its lipid-based encapsulation technology and synergy with an enzyme present in the skin, is converted into pure retinol upon application (40 ml, €299).

The SECRET OF LONGEVITY COMES FROM THE STORION

I laboratori Valmont hanno evidenziato la straordinarietà degli storioni, pesci incredibilmente longevi (alcuni vivono fino a 100 anni e più). Il loro segreto è nel Dna: un potente concentrato di giovinezza incorporato ne L’Elixir des Glaciers Sérum Merveilleux. Si stratta di storioni provenienti da un blasonato allevamento francese, La Ferme de Neuvic, scelto per l’altissima qualità e l’approccio etico. In formula si trova Dna di storione a basso e alto peso molecolare e tre minerali essenziali alla vitalità cellulare: magnesio per la produzione di energia, manganese per l’assimilazione di vitamine e nutrienti, selenio antiossidante. Il mix forma un siero rigenerante antiage e antifatica per risvegliare la naturale luminosità della pelle. La texture peso piuma è frutto della particolare emulsione lamellare a due strati che replica la naturale barriera idrolipidica superficiale, rinforzandola come una seconda pelle (40 ml, 946 €).

REDUCE THE SIGNS OF FATIGUE BY EARLY MORNING

A bottle with eco-design packaging - once the product is sold out, just buy the refill to save 95 per cent of the plastic - and a 96 per cent natural, green-oriented formula that is no less effective against the signs of a hectic life. Pure Shots Night Reboot Serum by YSL Beauty is applied before going to bed and the skin looks fresher when you wake up. With two-phase technology, it combines 3.4 per cent exfoliating glycolic acid with the energising and protective Moroccan night queen. The presence of a third emollient oil makes it gentle and well-tolerated (50 ml, €125).

PROTECTING AND MULTIPLIFYING COLLAGEN

To support all parameters of skin youthfulness, Sublimage Le Sérum by Chanel focuses on a specific target: stimulating collagen regeneration thanks to a lipopeptide that promotes its synthesis, as well as Solidago extract for its protective action on collagen fibres and Vanilla planifolia extract that, by virtue of a rigorous extraction process, triples cell regeneration, repairing the collagen structure by 49 per cent (30 ml, €490).

The PROPERTIES OF A JAPANESE SACRED HERB

The common denominator for new-generation serums is a major investment in research prior to formulation: for example, Shiseido has identified the C.C.N.2 gene, responsible for skin self-regeneration. To boost it, the LonGenevity Complex has been formulated to harness the efficacy of the Japanese sacred herb Enmei, known for its regenerative properties and ability to strengthen the skin's defences. In Future Solution LX Intensive Firming Brillance Serum its benefits complement the firming action of this rich yet fresh serum, which restores a radiant and plumped-up appearance (50 ml, €405).

MINIMALIST AND UNISEX FORMULA

The texture of Dress Cosmeetics' Fundamental Serum is liquid and light like a lotion, for a unisex product suitable for sensitive skin. The concept is minimalist, but functional: few active ingredients, but excellent ones, such as biomimetic peptides that stimulate collagen production, 5 per cent brightening and anti-dark spot vitamin C, niacinamide to reduce redness and strengthen the skin barrier (30 ml, €215, on dresscosmeetics.co.uk).

ThREE REACTIVES IN ONE PRODUCT

The power and safety of a serum also lie in the design of an ad hoc bottle: the Lancôme Rénergie C.R.x. Triple Serum Retinol bottle has a triple dispenser with as many chambers that keep the three active ingredients separate and protected from light and impurities: serum-emulsion with pure retinol for correcting signs of ageing, serum-gel with pure illuminating vitamin C and creamy serum with soothing X-Peptide. As with all retinol treatments, experts advise integrating it into one's skincare routine little by little and using a product with SPF (50 ml, €170).

NATURAL AND VEGAN

Super Serum [10] by Nuxe has a vegan, 100 per cent natural and silicone-free formula. The special feature of the serum is its two-phase consistency that preserves the active ingredients until the moment of application. Specifically, we are talking about botanical oils encapsulated in the form of microspheres, infused with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide for multi-correction on the signs of skin ageing. In a single gesture, it smoothes wrinkles, plumps, refines the grain, nourishes and repairs (30 ml, €87).

UNIFORMING CUTaneous Texture

Augustinus Bader's The Vitamin C Serum has a formula capable of precisely conveying a pool of antioxidants (including a highly stable form of vitamin C and ergothioneine), maximising both the absorption of the serum and its efficacy. It not only reawakens the skin's radiance and strengthens its defences against oxidative stress, but also acts as a skin texture uniformiser, counteracting the appearance of blemishes and preventing redness thanks to the presence of an algae and niacinamide complex (30 ml, €345).