Prada doubles its knitwear factory in Umbria to support 'extraordinary growth'
3' min read
3' min read
The intense green of the trees testifies to the proximity of the Tiber, which flows a short distance from the entrance to the Prada knitwear factory in Torgiano, about 8 km south of Perugia, a 9 thousand square metre facility surrounded by 15 thousand square metres of parkland. An area almost tripled, with two interventions, since 2001, the year the Milanese group took over the premises of the knitwear factory Mas. Vil., to support the growth of a category that Managing Director Andrea Guerra, on the occasion of the inauguration of the factory expansion, defined as 'extraordinary'.
From 39 employees almost 25 years ago, today there are 214 people in the Prada knitwear factory producing garments, such as elements that will enrich footwear and accessories, 72% of whom are women and 16% under 35. Between 2019 and 2022, the group has invested 210 million euro to expand and make its factories more efficient, now 26 worldwide, 23 of which are in Italy, employing more than 3,500 people out of its almost 15,000 total: 'For industrial development in 2024 we have earmarked another 60 million euro, excluding acquisitions, which remain an important element,' noted Guerra. 'Italy is our centre of reference and we think that being able to give generational stability to many of these SMEs is part of our entrepreneurial role and also our responsibility. We do not exclude other acquisitions here in Umbria'. In the last three years, in fact, the Prada group has strengthened its supply chain by taking over shares of manufacturing companies of excellence such as Filati Biagioli Modesto (together with the Zegna group), Superior Spa and, again with the Zegna group, of Luigi Fedeli e Figlio, specialised precisely in the production of knitwear.
The historic Umbrian knitwear district therefore continues to prosper, even though the luxury industry is faced with the issue of attracting talent. In the three areas of the factory, hands and machines work together: some, although dating back to the 1950s, are still needed to carry out those processes that embellish the majority of the 1,500 garments produced daily in Torgiano, where 65 people were hired in 2023, with another 30 arriving this year. It can take up to five years to learn how to carry out production steps such as linking to perfection. "We need to work on communication to make people perceive the attractiveness of these professions," emphasised Lorenzo Bertelli, head of marketing and corporate social responsibility for the group founded by his parents. "With the Prada Group Academy (an in-house training project set up in the early 2000s, nda) we want to bring the generations together and encourage the transfer of knowledge. Asked whether the demographic decline could have a negative impact on the availability of talent, CEO Guerra replied: 'I am not worried, talent will always be there. And the contribution of migrants is crucial'.
In the industrial strategy of 2024 includes, among other things, the opening of a new site for tailoring in Senigallia (also in this case recovering a disused industrial building, that of the former Ciare loudspeaker factory) and one in Piancastagnaio (Siena) dedicated to leather goods, a sector which, however, according to Confindustria Moda (the Confederation of Italian Fashion Industry), saw a significant increase in requests for redundancy payments in the first quarter of the year: 'We are not worried, on the contrary, perhaps we will accelerate,' explained Guerra, 'not only because of the increase in demand for our products, but also because of the greater availability of human resources resulting from this economic situation. Leather goods in general is experiencing a new normal after the boom of the past few years'.
After a 2023 with net revenues of 4.7 billion (+17% compared to 2022), the Prada group closed the first quarter 2024 with net revenues of 1.187 billion, +16% compared to the same period last year, thanks in part to the success of Miu Miu (+89%) and double-digit growth in almost all markets (the Americas recorded +5%) and with peaks of +46% in Japan.
