Between industrial design and luxury goods

Putting the movement of the wave and the colours of the ocean on your wrist

Meet artist and designer Samuel Ross, the versatile director of the upcoming London Design Biennial, which opens at Somerset House on 5 June.

by Paco Guarnaccia

Il designer inglese Samuel Ross, brand ambassador di Hublot.

4' min read

4' min read

The multifaceted British designer Samuel Ross, artistic director of the forthcoming London Design Biennale, boasts a prestigious CV between industrial design and luxury. He has worked with major companies such as Nike and Dr. Martens, founded his first clothing brand (A-COLD-WALL), and a few years ago started a new adventure with his design studio and fashion atelier SR_A. In 2020, a year after receiving the Hublot Design Prize, he also became brand ambassador for the watchmaker, with whom he has so far created three watches. The latest is the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross, launched at Art Basel Miami.

The Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross is your third watch in collaboration with Hublot: what was your starting idea?

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The concept for this model was based on a system of incremental innovation through the materials that inspired it. In this case, it was the observation of wild nature, carbon and the shaping of the materials by nature itself that led me to use a main structure for the black and satin-finished carbon fibre case.

Il Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross è in edizione limitata a 50 esemplari. L’orologio monta un movimento di manifattura a carica automatica, il calibro HUB6035, con microrotore visibile a ore 12 e tourbillon scheletrato a ore 6. Lancette e indici sono decorati con due tonalità di blu, una scura e una chiara (quest’ultima è quella che evidenzia anche la corona). Il cinturino è in caucciù blu scuro. Costa 149 mila euro.

After orange and green, seen in previous models, this time you chose blue as the main colour: why?

Because it recalls the reflections of the ocean waters through different shades of light. Since in the series of watches I have made with Hublot, the inspiration always comes from nature, here it was water shaping stone and earth.

One of the most striking features of your models is the honeycomb pattern that appears on the case, movement and strap: what inspired you?

It is a visual anchor that creates continuity with the tourbillon. A type of exposed beauty that reflects nature and the way metals are often used in engineering and design. The combination of these two observations led me to this solution.

In general, what is the greatest difficulty in designing a watch?

It is an object that must be approached with discretion, control and foresight. All changes must, however, be made in such a way as to consolidate the evergreen nature of the watchmaking tradition.

Il Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A by Samuel Ross

At the beginning of your career, did you ever think you would be working on this type of product?

Yes, without a doubt. The fusion and partial mixing of industrial design and luxury have been an interest of mine for some time. Like most people of the millennial generation, our skills are partly hybrid and interdisciplinary. The encounter between industrial design and menswear has an ideal bridge in the watch that is a 'wearable machine'.

A machine that marks time. What does time represent for you?

Time carries with it an air of aspiration and infinite, unlimited events to be determined. It is the most precious commodity of all: to be used, respected and learned from.

Luxury and haute horology are complementary. What is your idea of luxury?

When I think of luxury, I think of crafts that are pure and take years to perfect. Crafts that encapsulate an inherited language that is gradually forged.

La struttura della cassa di 44 mm di diametro è realizzata in titanio micropallinato lucido e in carbonio grigio satinato.

You have created the brand SR_A which presents itself as a sartorial research atelier: what are your plans in this regard?

We focus on two levels. The first is the artisan atelier, made up of meticulously crafted garments and wearable objects such as bags, shoes and accessories. In this case, the Big Bang Tourbillon SR_A would fit right in. The second, on the other hand, concerns uniforms, rough and accessible garments to be worn in everyday life. Our aim is to facilitate humanity's needs by offering functional solutions that are as much an expression of luxury as of equality.

Given the speed these days, is it difficult to create and plan a fashion collection today?

We do not see any problems, because we are an agile and completely independent entity, which can achieve without affecting its own stability but reflecting market dynamics and the needs of our communities.

Sul retro dell’orologio si vede il caratteristico reticolo a nido d’ape del movimento, soluzione che si ripete anche sulla cassa.

As a creative, how do you feel about the arrival of artificial intelligence in our society?

Well, I would not classify myself as a traditional product designer. But without a doubt, I am an artist and a fashion designer who started with product. Having said that, I am not very keen on following trends or developing realities. What I look for is novelty and risk in arriving at an idea that can be transformed into a tangible version of development through product. It sounds quite poetic, but what I seek is the construction of an additional design language: a visual language.

What do you think is the most iconic design product in history?

There are two: Jony Ive's iMac and Steve Jobs' iPhone.

Samuel Ross sarà il direttore artistico della London Design Biennale che si svolgerà dal 5 al 29 giugno.

You are the artistic director of the London Design Biennale which will take place from 5 to 29 June 2025: what ideas do you have for the event and what would you like it to express?

It is an honour and a great opportunity to unveil and make known unseen and unheard voices of global design. This is one of the aspects I am focusing on. Another is to establish colourful, innovative, accessible and optimistic visual and physical forms of design that can change the way the industry is often perceived.

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