Innovation

Recycling, Radici patents technology to separate mixed textile fibres

The innovative process allows the recovery of both nylon and lycra. In Novara a first pilot plant for the waste chain

by Cristiana Gamba

Ecocompatibile. Il processo chimico non utilizza solventi tossici, neppure infiammabili piuttosto ecocompatibili ed è applicabile alle principali tipologie del nylon

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

3' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Four years of hard work and a historic milestone. Radici Innova, the research and innovation division of the Bergamo-based Radici Group, pulled the rabbit out of the hat and solved the age-old puzzle of separating nylon from lycra once and for all.

An astonishing result since the elastomer fibre, precisely because of its characteristics of softness and comfort, wraps itself around the polyamide in an inextricable manner and is difficult to separate from it. But this did not stop the obstinacy of the researchers who succeeded.

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Outside of technical jargon, this means that from now on, the company will be able to recover nylon and lycra from a garment made of different types of fibres and make them available for the creation and manufacture of new fabrics. In other words, from an old swimming costume can be born tights, which in turn will give life to tights or sportswear in an endless cycle.

'Eighty per cent of discarded garments,' explains Stefano Alini, managing director of Radici Innova, 'end up in landfills. According to a Boston Consulting study, this accumulation corresponds to $150 billion in wasted raw materials. Needless to say, an extraordinary opportunity for the environment and for the fight against pollution is the opportunity to recycle waste and second-hand goods".

Of the recycling technique - internationally patented and therefore covered by industrial secrecy - we know that it is based on selective dissolution capable of treating mixed textile waste by recovering the different fibres (nylon and Lycra) from it, making them available for new garments. The process also does not use toxic solvents, not even flammable rather environmentally friendly ones, and is applicable to the main types of nylon, Pa 6 and Pa 66; it is also economically viable because it allows both nylon and Lycra to be recovered, regardless of their percentage composition, as well as the solvent. The recovery of both fibres for the production of new yarns allows a reduction in carbon dioxide emissions of more than 50% compared to the use of virgin material.

Radici Innova did not travel this stretch of innovation road alone, but was accompanied by two big names in the industry, working in partnership with The Lycra Company and Triumph.

After the initial fine-tuning of the chemical process, subsequent tests resulted in the recovery of Lycra fibre samples from fabrics containing more than one material, samples which were then sent to the Lycra Company which verified their recyclability. We then moved on to a concrete case to demonstrate the feasibility: Triuph provided its production surplus, i.e. a fabric containing 16% Lycra. And it is precisely from this material that the Bergamo group was able to recover both Lycra and nylon: the former was in turn trimmed by The Lycra, the latter processed directly by Radici, which transformed it into a new polyamide yarn. The result? A 60-metre black fabric that Triumph's experience has transformed into a coordinated underwear.

It is thus demonstrated that it is possible to close the recovery loop (the so-called close loop): i.e. from textile waste it is possible to make a new garment. Now, the result achieved by the three companies is to be considered a prototype, designed to demonstrate the technical feasibility of recycling mixed fabrics and able to lay the foundations for its subsequent industrialisation.

'We are working to ground the industrialisation project with a pilot plant in our Novara chemical plant,' Alini continues.

The company's intention is to start building a real textile waste chain: in an area of twenty metres by ten, a pilot micro-plant will be set up that will start with the processing of 30-50 tonnes per year, which later, with the extension of space and then the creation of a new plant, could reach 2,000-3,000 per year. As with every scientific discovery, the gaze is turned to the future but the feet are firmly planted on the ground: Radici's next challenge is to make available by 2026 sufficient fabric, created from the reuse of fibres, to make an entire capsule collection.

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