Luxury

Richemont slips on the stock market after disappointing half year

The Swiss luxury group reported a 1% drop in revenue and a 17% drop in operating profit as a result of the slowdown in Chinese demand

 REUTERS/Denis Balibouse/File Photo

4' min read

4' min read

Richemont shares slid on the stock market following a disappointing half-yearly report. On the Zurich stock exchange, the share price dropped more than 5% in the early hours of the trading session following the release of figures for the period ending at the end of September. In the first six months of 2024, the Swiss group posted a net profit of EUR457m, down sharply from EUR1.505bn in the same period last year. The slowdown in Chinese demand in the watch segment weighed on the results. On the revenue side, the trend resulted in a slight decline of 1% to EUR 10.077 billion (EUR 10.221 billion in the same period of 2023), while profitability was more affected, with group operating profit down 17% to EUR 2.206 billion and the operating margin down to 21.9% from 26% in the same period last year. Gross profit for the period decreased by 3% to EUR 6.771 billion.

'In the first half of this fiscal year,' commented Group President Johann Rupert, 'we continued to benefit from sustained resilience in a world where uncertainty has become the norm. We saw solid sales growth in most of our regions, offsetting the continued weakness in Chinese demand, which will take longer to recover and is affecting our watch business in particular."

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The Weight of China

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Richemont, which counts brands such as Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels in its portfolio, is suffering from the cautiousness of Chinese consumers, following the trend already seen by other luxury groups such as LVMH and Kering. Indeed, demand for high-end watches has subsided after a boom during the pandemic. According to Bernstein analyst Luca Solca, Richemont's jewellery segment held up well, while the watch segment 'weighed' on overall results.

Sales growth in the US, Europe and Japan was offset by an 18% drop in the Asia-Pacific region, including China, where sales fell 27%. President Johann Rupert said that the recovery of Chinese demand for luxury goods will take longer, particularly affecting the watch segment.

Sales of luxury watches contracted 16% during the period, a decline that exceeded analysts' forecasts. Jewellery sales, on the other hand, met estimates, growing by 4% at constant exchange rates. The company also pointed out that limited price increases were not enough to offset the rising costs of raw materials such as gold.

CEO Nicolas Bos told reporters that 'there is definitely a confidence factor' weighing on China. Richemont, however, is cautious and cannot say whether the drop in demand in China has bottomed out or when it might recover. 'Confidence in China is not at an all-time low, but it is quite low at the moment and has been for some time,' Bos added.

Capacity Reduction

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The CEO of the Swiss group reported that some brands in the watch segment had reduced production capacity to align with demand, but had not used Switzerland's short-time working programme to temporarily lay off employees, unlike other companies that had taken this measure to preserve the skills of skilled workers. 'We have already used short-time working in the past and will see how we can use it in the future,' Bos said.

A new unknown, after the outcome of the US elections, weighs on future prospects. However, Richemont's management did not want to comment on the possibility that the new US president, Donald Trump, might impose duties on certain luxury goods.

The reorganisation with the sale of Ynap

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The Swiss group, controlled by South African billionaire Johann Rupert, appointed Bos, known for leading the growth of the Van Cleef brand, as CEO in May with the aim of turning around and relaunching the group's strategies. In the reorganisation, the former CEO of Vacheron Constantin, Louis Ferla, was appointed to head Cartier, Richemont's best-selling jewellery brand.

There was also a reorganisation of holdings starting with Yoox Net-A-Porter. Last October, Richemont announced that it had sold its e-commerce division (YNAP) to German online retailer Mytheresa in exchange for a 33% stake in the acquiring company. The agreement to sell Ynap, a loss-making business, comes almost a year after an attempted sale to Farfetch failed.

At the time of the sale Ynap has a cash position of EUR 555 million and no financial debt. In addition, Richemont will provide a six-year EUR 100 million revolving credit line to finance Ynap's general business needs, including working capital.

The Analysts

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Richemont's watch business and the company's performance in China neutralised the resilience of jewellery and results in other markets, Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet noted in a note. The Swiss luxury group disappointed market expectations. "Against a backdrop of uncertain demand recovery, we see Richemont as a fundamentally stronger company than previous downturns in the sector," says the analyst, who added however that the shares could react negatively to today's results.

"Organic growth in the third quarter of the calendar year was +4%, lower than analysts' consensus expectations of +4.8%, with an operating margin of 32.9% for the half-year, leading to a 4.5% lower-than-expected operating profit," writes Bernstein's Luca Solca, continuing, "The jewellery segment's Ebit margin declined (-260 basis points) as price increases did not fully offset the higher cost of gold. The Specialist Watchmakers segment's Ebit margin declined (-1000 basis points) due to negative operating leverage'. Bernstein remains positive on the stock with an 'outperform' recommendation and a target price of CHF 155, against current prices of around CHF 122.


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