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Rome as you've never seen it: an anthropological atlas by Albert Watson

The greatest photographer of stars and personalities turns his lens to the city. Eternal marbles and anonymous heroes, faces and monuments. Between Sorrentino, Zingaretti, the fans of the curva and the Colosseum.

by Angelica Moschin

Il fotografo Albert Watson alla sua personale “Roma Codex”, fino al 3/8 al Palazzo delle Esposizioni di Roma. Alle sue spalle, alcuni degli scatti. In alto, a sinistra, “Piazza Trilussa – Trastevere” e, a fianco, “La Pietà di Michelangelo, San Pietro, Vaticano”. In basso, a sinistra, “Roma World -Raven” e “Fireworks at Castel Sant’Angelo”. Al centro, “The Diver - Ostia”: Watson ha scattato questa foto al famoso Kursaal Resort, aperto nel 1950. In alto, a destra, “PaoloSorrentino” e in basso, da sinistra, “Colosseum” e“Imperial Royal Circus. ©Claudio Moschin

6' min read

6' min read

I have been called the photographer who has portrayed almost all the stars of our time. Actually, the stars who come to my studio are often my friends. I have photographed many of them many times, we work quietly, we have lunch together, we chat'. So Albert Watson tells me, as we walk among dozens and dozens of his monumental photographs hanging on the walls. We are in the rooms of the Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome, where the images make up the Roma Codex exhibition, open to the public until 3 August. Rome was like another planet for him: empty streets, marble luminescent under artificial light, fountains suspended in time. A transfigured city, because it was between three and five in the morning that Albert Watson, for months, captured the secret soul of the Eternal City. "The steps of Trinità dei Monti were completely empty. Everything seemed slightly surreal. Rome at night is a place that only reveals itself if you have the patience and the right light to look at it,' he tells me. After a career spanning more than half a century, with countless covers for Vogue, advertising campaigns for Chanel, Prada, Levi's and posters for films such as Kill Bill and Memoirs of a Geisha, Albert Watson has also signed some images that have gone down in history: Alfred Hitchcock with a goose under his arm, Steve Jobs in his iconic black turtleneck, Kate Moss on a rooftop in Marrakech. And yet, at the threshold of his 83rd birthday, he remains more than ever a great photographer and above all a man driven by an inexhaustible passion for life and all things creative. So much so, in fact, that he was even awarded the Order of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II, an official recognition that rewards his extraordinary contribution to photography and visual culture in over half a century of activity.

Scottish-born and naturalised American, Albert Watson chose Rome as the setting for his latest photo project: the result of seven months of shooting and five of post-production, spread over four intense trips between New York and the Italian capital. During this time, the InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace hotel became his second home. As a sign of gratitude, he donated some of his photographs to the hotel, two of which will be exhibited at the end of the show at the top of the grand staircase from the red carpet.

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Watson posa tra due sue fotografie, “Chiara Tognarini, School of Silvio D’Amico, National Academy of Dramatic Arts” e, a destra, “Young Boy Through Wine Glass”, scattata con iPhone al ristorante dell’hotel InterContinental Rome Ambasciatori Palace di Roma. ©Claudio Moschin

More than a visual diary, Watson's was a veritable anthropological atlas of a Rome not observed, but experienced: after the capital, the exhibition will travel to the United States, where it will land in Washington at the Kennedy Center, strongly desired by Paolo Zampolli, US Special Representative Ambassador for Global Partnerships. "I did not want to do a coffee table book on monuments. Sure, I photographed the Colosseum, but I was more interested in what goes on between the monuments. The bodies, the faces, the stories. I entered Rome through the back door, not the main hall'. A declaration of intent that becomes a key to reading: Watson seeks what escapes, what moves between one point and another, within the Rome of margins and contradictions. Among the most surprising stories is the woman of prey encountered in Cinecittà World. "All the Romans I told about her didn't even know she existed. Yet it was as important to me as the Colosseum. Maybe more: I have more photos of its birds than of the Flavian Amphitheatre'. The project is constructed in this way, by layers and contrasts. The young actors from the Academy and the 17-year-old dancers who grew up in the discipline. The drag queens from the Muccassassina nightclub and the AS Roma fans on the curve. "I was interested in showing the city suspended between history and hedonism. Between the eternal marble and the fleeting shadows of an underground disco'. Watson alternates between mass and solitude, the club crowd and the furtive kiss of a couple in the street, five thousand delirious fans and an anonymous face in the rain. "I wanted to work on multiplicity and singularity. Two people, eight, twenty, a hundred, a thousand. But also one. A child, a passer-by, then Paolo Sorrentino and Toni Servillo'.

Albert Watson creates a continuous dialogue between opposites: highly detailed, lenticular images, reminiscent of the obsessive precision of Flemish paintings, juxtaposed with more grainy, blurred photographs, like faded memories. This alternation is not random: it is a play of counterpoints, a visual music made up of themes that intertwine and separate. The confrontation of these two universes gives rise to suspended worlds, semantic drifts and musical escapes that involve the spectator in an open narrative without precise boundaries. Watson himself reflects on his personal history: "My father was a boxer, who later became a PE teacher. My mother was a hairdresser. There was already a dialectic between strength and grace in the family. I think this duality has entered my way of seeing and photographing the world'. But what distinguishes Roma Codex is not only the content. It is the form. Watson has a hybrid background, combining film and graphic design: he studied film directing and design at the Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art & Design in Dundee, Scotland, and then at the Royal College of Art. A dual visual matrix that is reflected in every shot. "For me everything always ends up inside a rectangle. Whether it's a poster, a magazine page or a photograph: everything is a rectangle. Inside, there is always a graphic composition. And also a direction. The subject is only the beginning'. In the exhibition, a head of Constantine dialogues with a packet of cigarettes crushed in the mud. A coin from 200 BC is juxtaposed with a contemporary Roman face. "I am interested in the combination of high and low levels. An iconic statue next to a banal, ruined object. Everything has value. Like in a language: you can say Shakespeare or you can say hello. It is the same grammar'. Spontaneity, for Watson, is a cultivated art. "At the beginning of my career I was trying to please. I once distorted an entire photograph to please an art director. It seemed like the right thing to do. But I soon regretted it. I never made that mistake again. Today, if I see something on the street, I shout "stop the car!". Because maybe two hours later, it will no longer be there'.

Instinct and rigour mix in his shots. "It's like going to the gym. At the beginning you hold ten minutes. After six months, an hour. That's how photography is. Instinct trains, like a muscle. But even after fifty years, you can still make mistakes. And sometimes, the mistake is a blessing. I remember one day, in Nevada, I accidentally took a back road. I found a billboard that said God Bless America. I came back at sunset, with the red sky blazing behind. Only the word God remained. That shot would never have existed without the mistake. Chance always plays a role'.

Watson sfoglia il libro “Roma Codex”, che raccoglie tutte le fotografie presentate in mostra al Palazzo delle Esposizioni a Roma; sullo sfondo, il ritratto dell’attore Luca Zingaretti. ©Claudio Moschin

The exhibition, produced and organised by Studio F.P. and curated by Clara Tosi Pamphili, extends over three main rooms of the Palazzo delle Esposizioni and presents 200 photographs, in black and white and colour, many in large format. Celebrities and passers-by, solemn architecture and decadent interiors coexist in a visual flow without hierarchies. It is an open code, a visual grammar of the city in three states - physical, emotional, symbolic. "We live in an age where people scroll through images all the time. Instagrams, screens, advertisements: the gaze jumps, changes channels in a second. My work anticipated all this. In Cyclops I was already mixing seemingly irreconcilable genres and subjects. Never before has the audience been ready for this. It can go from Roberto Bolle to an anonymous face, from the Colosseum to a wet cigarette. Effortlessly'. Among the most striking works is a photograph of a giraffe, an image Watson considers one of his favourites, because of the lightness and compositional balance it embodies. "It's exactly the picture I would like to hang in my house," he says, smiling. Another highly refined element is the study of a phosphorescent green bird's wing, reminiscent of Albrecht Dürer's studies of birds. The fundamental difference is that while Dürer worked on dead specimens, Watson made a study from life, on live birds. A still life that is not so still, but is in perpetual motion, capturing the vitality and tension of life itself. At the end of our conversation, Watson's memory goes back to that 20-year-old who received his first camera as a gift. "From the first moment I had it in my hands, I knew that that was my path. And I have never left it. At a time when the image is consumed in a few seconds of scrolling, Roma Codex returns photography to its oldest and most precious function: that of stopping time.

STRATIFICATIONS Albert Watson, albertwatson.net. 'Roma Codex', until 3/8 at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni in Rome, palazzoesposizioniroma.it. Then at The Kennedy Center, kennedy-center.org.

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