Wine Pills

Rosé wines, here's why Italy has much to learn from France (for a change)

Production growing but fragmented and without strategy, but now something is changing

by Cristiana Lauro

“Color petalo di rosa in Francia e buccia di cipolla in Italia: sui rosé abbiamo tanto da imparare”

2' min read

2' min read

The consumption of rosé wines is growing strongly, but less dramatically in Italy than in the rest of the world. The reason for this may lie primarily in a problem of precise classification and zoning. But let us take a look at the matter through the most relevant element which, once again, places France ahead of us.

In fact, the French started off by centring their rosé discourse on theCôte de Provence, an area in which I miss the exciting works when it comes to white and red wines (with the exception of Bandol). As a matter of fact, it is from there that the rise of ingenuity started to create a trend that conquered first the domestic market and then by direct consequence the international one, with a decidedly high average price;

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In Italy, on the other hand, as soon as it was realised that the rosé trend was a commercial success, most wineries started to produce rosé, creating a clear commercial confusion. The result is that the consumption pie has certainly expanded a lot, but the parcelling out of production has made the domestic market saturated: it is not for nothing that the best results come from exports.

If we add that we are a country of peasant origin where no wise producer in the past would ever have sacrificed a red to produce any rosé, the conclusions are drawn by themselves and without much thought.

The average quality of rosé wines produced in Italy has risen considerably; however, we lack tradition, if we exclude a few areas such as the Veronese and Brescian shores of Lake Garda, Abruzzo with its Cerasuolo and Salento (which has always produced rosé wines with an attractive Campari colour).

But the trend started in France with the consequent impetus in producing rosés with a soft colour that we call 'onion skin', while they call it 'rose petal'. Then we are still here wondering why the French are better at marketing than us. Let's ask ourselves some questions and get some answers about that.

If one analyses the figures, the production market is led by France, followed by us and (hear, hear!) the USA, which is the third largest producer of rosé wines in the world, since the fashion for pink in North America has broken out in a big way and they themselves have started to produce some (and some good ones too, actually).

I understand that a sort of rosé connection is being created between the Valtènesi (province of Brescia and the western area of Lake Garda),the Côte de Provence and Long Island, so as to elevate the production areas of quality rosés. From a commercial point of view, all this could help the repositioning and qualification of Italian rosé in the world.

To conclude: I would like to clarify, for the use of those less knowledgeable on the subject, that rosé wine is not made by mixing white with red, but was a widespread 'trick' in Italian restaurants in the past. Perhaps it is also because of this cultural heritage that rosé wine is talked about a lot but perceived not so much.

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