Salmon, falling prices drive Christmas purchases
90 per cent are Norwegian and Italians are among the largest European consumers in the packaged goods sector: prices down 2.3 per cent and a jump in sales in discounters bring turnover above 600 million
For 87 families out of a hundred, the end-of-year festive menu is all about fish, reveals a survey conducted by Niq on behalf of Msc-Marine Stewardship Council. And in 41% of cases the choice falls on salmon, of which we have for years become one of the biggest consumers in Europe, with 2.5 kg per capita per year (90% from Norway). A product that goes against the tide, given that while the shopping trolley suffers and inflation is being felt, fresh and smoked salmon continues to grow in volume (+2.5% in 12 months), thanks in part to a 2.3% drop in the average price, down to EUR 34.95 per kilo.
A trend that, in the year ending October 2025, took the market over 17 million kg for a value of EUR 601 million. "Supporting the market were two other crucial factors," emphasises Federico Bracaglia of Niq, "the increase in in-store promotions, which reached 34% of the total, and the expansion of the average shelf offer to 6.3 references.
More choice and more convenience are therefore stimulating salmon purchases, especially in supermarkets, where sales grew by 3.6% in volume and consolidated their leadership in value with over 40% share. In terms of volume, however, discounters (37.3%) led the way, also thanks to an average price 31.4% lower than in supermarkets.
"This pricing policy is the result of a careful calibration of the offer and a precise planning of the purchases of these fresh products in order to avoid waste and losses," explains Paolo Jaros, director national buying of Aldi Italia, which in this Christmas campaign is focusing on top of the range smoked salmon, such as Icelandic and Scottish salmon, to preside over this dynamic market segment.
"This December we expect to sell more than 2.25 million products with theCami-Consorzio Affumicatori Maestri Italiani stamp, i.e. 125% more than last October," says Gianpaolo Ghilardotti, founder of Foodlab and president of Cami, a consortium established in 2023 to which four companies that cover 30% of the market turnover belong. The Cami label is reserved for products processed in Italy according to precise quality standards from the selection of the raw material to the hand application of sea salt to the fillet, which gives the salmon an intense colour and firm texture. But which also results in a weight loss of about 20 per cent.
"Instead, much of the low-end salmon is marinated by injecting a saline solution into the meat, which gives flavour even to a lower quality product, halves the ripening time and does not lose liquid," explains Claudio Cerati, owner of Upstream and author of the book 'The Truth, Please, About Salmon', published a few months ago by Maretti editore. Neither Cerati nor Cami resort to stiffening, the freezing used to facilitate slicing. A widespread practice that, after the recent EU pronouncement, should no longer be indicated on labels, so the products thus obtained are considered fresh. A novelty that does not please everyone.
