The sculpted elegance between past and modern by Serena Uziyel

A thread links the millennial history of Mesopotamia and Persia to the current creations of Turkish designer Serena Uziyel. The thread runs from ancient civilisations to the modern world, between New York, Florence and Istanbul. Serena Uziyel reinterprets, in fact, a millenary craftsmanship by bringing it up to date with the brand, founded in 2019, which focuses on accessories and rediscovers what was created in the past by skilled artisans.

"Each of my pieces interweaves techniques such as loom, crochet and filigree, making the connection between past and present tangible," the designer, who studied at the Parsons School of Design in New York and then collaborated with maisons such as Moschino, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, explains to Il Sole 24 Ore. After two years in Spain with Zara International, she chose a different path, aiming for a more authentic and sustainable model. Each of her creations is made by hand, in Italy, and it was in Florence that Serena learned the art of shoemaking from master Giuseppe Joseph Amolo, one of the last representatives of the great Tuscan artisan school. Hence the birth of a first collection of shoes and bags, called Sanayi 313, the prelude to the current brand.

The designer with her studies and experience thus combines Turkish roots, American training and Italian craftsmanship, choosing to position herself in the premium-luxury accessories segment. To keep the quality high, the choice of materials and production falls on Italy.

In 2024, the brand achieved double-digit growth over 2023 in terms of both turnover and expansion. "This year we have also significantly increased our investment in marketing and expanded our retail presence with the opening of three new physical shops," he says. "Annual production is divided between shoes (around 40 per cent), bags (35 per cent), small leather goods (20 per cent) and jewellery, a new and expanding category that accounts for the remaining 5-10 per cent.

The hallmark of the collections is the chain: a symbol of connection and strength, it is handmade by artisans in Turkey using traditional goldsmithing techniques combined with innovative processing applied to the world of leather goods. "At the heart of our brand is the delicate art of transforming metal wires into intricate chains," she explains. "Through a combination of metal wires, raffia, beaten copper, twisting, braiding and winding, our artisans breathe life into each design, making each chain a story of craftsmanship and modern elegance.