Well-being

Sensitive skin: causes, symptoms and effective treatments

26 June 2025

Uriage Siero Levigante Correttore Anti-rossori della linea Roséliane, un nuovo siero quotidiano anti-inflammaging che agisce sui segni visibili dell’invecchiamento prematuro tipico delle pelli sensibili soggette a couperose e rosacea. La formula contiene 3 molecole farmacologiche dall’azione lenitiva: esperidina, enoxolone e niacinamide che proteggono le cellule dall’infiammazione cronica. Lo squalano, un attivo anti-secchezza, idrata e rinforza la barriera cutanea

4' min read

stretched, reddened, prone to tingling and burning: what many people refer to as simply 'wayward skin' is actually a very specific dermatological condition, known as Sensitive Skin Syndrome (SSS). It is an exaggerated skin response to normally harmless factors - such as wind, sun exposure or a common cleanser - that triggers a cascade of annoying and persistent symptoms. It is a growing condition that reflects an increasing vulnerability of the skin barrier and makes skin care a real obstacle course, where even the most mundane gestures of the beauty routine can turn into a challenge..

Dalla medicina estetica alla beauty routine, i rimedi per la pelle sensibile
Photogallery11 foto

The crucial role of the specialist

How to distinguish real sensitive skin from other dermatological conditions, and especially how to take care of it without worsening its reactivity? The answer is not easy. "About 60 per cent of people believe they have sensitive skin, but this subjective perception can easily mislead them," explains Eleana Ferrari, an aesthetic doctor, biochemist and nutritionist in Padua and London. "One of the most common mistakes is to confuse sensitive skin with skin that is momentarily irritated or reactive due to external causes, such as aggressive treatments or environmental conditions. Some patients attribute any redness or tingling to 'sensitive skin', when in fact it is often a matter of skin barriers altered by incorrect skincare, overuse of exfoliants or overlapping of incompatible actives. In addition, many underestimate the impact of lifestyle - stress, diet, sleep - which can accentuate skin reactivity'.

The most common causes

The causes of sensitive skin are still not entirely clear, but the most widely accepted hypotheses point to a combination of physiological alterations and environmental factors. "Among the main mechanisms are a dysfunction of the skin barrier, increased permeability of the stratum corneum and an overactive neurosensory response to stimuli," explains the expert. "Both external factors - such as climatic changes, air pollution and exposure to UV rays - and internal factors, including hormonal imbalances, the menstrual cycle, psychophysical stress and daily habits, contribute to modulating skin reactivity. Cosmetic routines can also have an impact, especially if you use products that are too aggressive or unsuitable for your skin type. Nutrition plays a not insignificant role; it is best to reduce consumption of alcohol, spicy foods, simple sugars, refined carbohydrates and excess caffeine, all of which can contribute to skin sensitivity'.

Rosacea or rosacea?

Rosacea and couperose are often confused with each other and with sensitive skin, but they have distinct clinical features. "Couperose is a vascular condition characterised by the visible presence of dilated capillaries (telangiectasias), especially on the cheeks and nose, while rosacea is a chronic inflammatory condition that can include persistent redness, papules, pustules and, in more advanced cases, skin thickening," Dr Ferrari continues. "Both are recognisable by objective signs visible to the naked eye. Sensitive skin, on the other hand, is a subjective condition that manifests itself with burning, tingling or itching sensations in the absence of clinically detectable lesions. For an aesthetic doctor, distinguishing between these conditions is essential to set up a correct and customised treatment. Diagnosis is based on a detailed medical history, careful clinical observation and, if necessary, the involvement of a dermatologist. Diagnostic tools such as skin barrier function analysis or reactivity tests can provide additional elements to differentiate between true sensitive skin and pathological conditions with visible manifestations, such as rosacea, couperose or dermatitis'.

Aesthetic Medical Treatments

There are also effective aesthetic treatments for hyper-reactive skin, provided they are carefully selected. "Non-invasive technologies such as microcurrents, low-intensity fractional pulsed light and topical oxygen therapy are safe and well-tolerated options," the specialist continues. "They act gently, stimulating skin regeneration and improving microcirculation without causing thermal or mechanical stress. They are often recommended in synergy with soothing and antioxidant cosmetics to enhance the calming and protective effect. Are chemical peelings and lasers aggressive? When the skin barrier is intact and well balanced, customised and progressive protocols can be evaluated. Gentle peelings, such as those based on mandelic or lactic acid at low concentrations, offer good tolerability. Non-ablative low-intensity lasers can also find a place, provided they are preceded by a targeted preparatory phase (pre-conditioning) and a gradual approach is adopted: 'start low and go slow' is the golden rule to avoid adverse reactions and achieve effective results in total safety.

A proper beauty routine

For sensitive or hyper-reactive skin, the key word is simplification. An effective skincare routine must avoid unnecessary overlapping of exfoliating or potentially irritating actives, favouring instead essential and well-balanced formulas. The aim is to strengthen the skin barrier, maintain constant hydration and protect the skin from external agents. "Fundamental is the daily use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen, even during autumn and winter, to shield the skin from the cumulative damage of UV rays," Ferrari continues. 'Equally important is limiting temperature changes and counteracting oxidative stress, both factors that can exacerbate skin reactivity. The most effective active ingredients? Niacinamide (vitamin B3) which helps strengthen the skin barrier, reduces inflammation and improves skin tolerability; Allantoin, known for its soothing and repairing properties, is ideal in the case of skin prone to redness or irritation; low molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid which provides deep hydration without weighing down or occluding; Centella asiatica to support skin regeneration and perform a beneficial action at the microvascular level; and Plant Stem Cells used for their antioxidant and protective potential, helping to improve skin resilience. Finally, an often overlooked but crucial aspect is the pH of skincare products. Healthy skin has a slightly acidic pH, around 5.5, which helps maintain the barrier function and prevent microbiotic imbalances. The use of cosmetics with a pH that is too alkaline or too acidic can compromise this balance and increase skin sensitivity. For this reason, it is essential to choose formulations with a controlled and dermocompatible pH, specifically developed for the needs of reactive skin'.