Ultra fast fashion

Shein suspended in France. Protests under the new shop in Paris

by Marta Casadei

FILE PHOTO: Shein logo and their web shop are seen in this illustration taken, May 16, 2024. REUTERS/Dado Ruvic/Illustration/File Photo

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

4' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

The French government has temporarily suspended the platform Shein, following complaints about the sale of child sex dolls and weapons on its platform. A report to the public prosecutor's office, in fact, allegedly revealed that weapons (machetes and knuckle-draggers) and inflatable dolls with the likeness of little girls were being sold on the platform.

The Singapore-based company, founded by Chris Xu in 2012, has taken note of the Lecornu government's decision to temporarily halt third-party sales on its platform - which has increasingly developed as a marketplace in recent years - and said it would quickly initiate a dialogue with the authorities: 'We take note of the announcement made today by the government. The safety of our customers and the integrity of our marketplace (a virtual sales site where products are offered for sale by third parties, ed.) are top priorities,' Shein France spokesman Quentin Ruffat said in a statement.

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Paris protests against Shein's entry into the historic Bhv department store

The inflatable dolls and weapons scandal is only the latest in chronological order to hit the ultra fast fashion giant in France. Shein's recent decision to land across the Alps with a series of stores (in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers and Limoges) under the prestigious Bvh and Galeries Lafayette banners (in department stores that, however, have been sold by Lafayette to Societé des Grand Magasins) has created a number of ill-feelings in the home of haute couture and led to the breaking of the affiliation contract between Galeries Lafayette and the SGM group, in place since 2021: the seven shops held and managed by Sgm, in which Shein shops are planned, will change their names.

Today, 5 November, at the opening of Shein's first non-temporary physical shop, 1,000 square metres in the Marais, on the top floor of the Bhv department stores', a crowd of demonstrators gathered in front of the shop to protest against the opening. And some brands - including Disney, which cancelled its presence at Bvh with a Christmas pop-up - reportedly withdrew from the Parisian multi-brand in protest against the ultra fast fashion brand's arrival.

France one step closer to anti ultra fast fashion law

France - the first European nation to adopt extended producer responsibility in textiles - has always been at the forefront of the fight against ultra fast fashion: despite the complicated political situation, a law against ultra low-cost fashion has been passed in the Senate at first reading. The bill introduces an eco-score system that will assess the environmental impact of products sold by fast fashion companies, including emissions, resource use and recyclability, and will establish a possible tax to be levied on products and prohibit, among other things, advertising for these platforms.

The issue of socio-environmental impact is one of the great weaknesses of Shein, which sells very low-cost products, mainly made in China, and ships them all over the world (the key markets are Europe and the USA). The Chinese giant - which in the same sustainability report certifies that it has, in fact, increased its own emissions and has only a limited portion of virtuous suppliers - was recently fined (with a penalty of one million euro) also by the Italian Antitrust Authority for having used misleading/omissive environmental messages and assertions (green claims) in the promotion and sale of Shein-branded clothing products.

Low-cost fashion in the crosshairs of the Italian government. But anti-shein regulations are on standby

Ultra fast fashion is currently the focus of attention also for the Italian government: Mimit had included among the amendments to the Ddl Concorrenza a package of regulations to extend the EPR and bind large non-European platforms such as Shein and Temu to the regulations on large digital companies. Tight deadlines and the need to approve it before the start of the budget session, however, brought the text of the Ddl Concorrenza to the Chamber without amendments, leaving the anti ultra fast fashion regulations (for now) without a regulatory vehicle. Companies in the sector urged the government to act on the issue with all speed. Meanwhile, today, 5 November, the Council of Ministers approved, at the proposal of MIME head Adolfo Urso, a legislative decree transposing the EU directive on consumer empowerment for the green transition. The measure aims to strengthen protections and tools against unfair commercial practices related to the environmental and social sustainability of products, so-called misleading green claims, and introduces new ways of providing clear and verifiable information for the benefit of consumers.

An appeal to the EU for customs reform to abolish de minimis

The appeal of the companies - European and not just Italian - had also been addressed to Brussels: in September, associations including Confindustria Moda had signed a joint document asking the European institutions to intervene on the issue, with a particular focus on the elimination of the de minimis rule for parcels with a value of less than €150 arriving from non-European countries. The European Commission had already sent a recommendation to their co-legislators on the topic in February, pointing out that in 2024, 4.6 billion low-value items were imported into the European Union, almost twice as many as in 2023 (2.4 billion) and more than three times as many as in 2022 (1.4 billion). Every day, on average, 12 million low-cost items are imported into Europe. President Donald Trump, last August, eliminated de minimis in the USA: parcels worth EUR 800 arriving from China are now subject to tariffs.

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