European Funds in Sardinia

Slow tourism in the Suclis-Iglesiente on the old miners' paths

In south-western Sardinia, the wound of the mines that has been slow to heal is becoming, also thanks to European structural funds, an opportunity for rebirth for the area

by Davide Madeddu

Turismo lento nel Sulcis-Iglesiente sui vecchi sentieri dei minatori

4' min read

4' min read

Tunnels are no longer being dug, but a new course made of technology and tourism is being pursued. The legacy left behind by the mining companies that stopped mining in Sardinia is a heavy one and has to reckon with a compromised environment that has to be recovered, with buildings collapsing, abandoned compounds and landfills to be reclaimed.

It is a wound that is slow to heal and with which Sulcis Iglesiente still has to reckon. Yet in the last twenty years something has been done and a new course has been set, starting with the birth of the Geominerary Park established after a year-long underground protest in the Monteponi mine. The two capital cities, Iglesias and Carbonia, are at the centre of this change that is travelling intermittently, in which important phases of non-stop work alternate with periods of stalemate and silence. And EU resources, especially the European Regional Development Fund (ERDF), have been decisive in this first phase.

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European Resources Fundamental

'European funds have been crucial for solving basic issues in the city. For example, in order to completely rebuild the water network, we invested more than 20 million euros,' emphasises Salvatore Cherchi, mayor of Carbonia from 2001 to 2010 and then president of the Province of Carbonia Iglesias until 2014. Or to reconvert abandoned mining sites, such as the large Serbariu mine where, thanks to European funds, we have been able to build a large museum, a cinema factory, and a laboratory with thirty people for clean energy technologies. We presented the projects, won the tenders and, from my experience, I can say that we can meet the deadlines: in fact, we have not returned a single euro'.

La miniera abbandonata di Masua e sullo sfondo il Pan di Zucchero

The stumbling blocks: the case of public land reclamation

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Not everything, however, has gone well over the years and the effects can still be seen today. "In the area I find the case of land reclamation particularly critical,' Cherchi adds, 'I am thinking of mining sites in public hands. I have to note that the public system under the Region has lost about EUR 160 million from the Development and Cohesion Fund because the regional system has not been able to commit these resources. On the other hand, some interventions in private hands, such as that of Alcoa, have spent over 25 million euro to secure the abandoned site'.

Il sentiero verso Porto Flavia, sorprendente opera di ingegneria mineraria a Masua

A new life after mining

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The city of Iglesias, which has been at the centre of a real change since 2004, has also exploited the leverage of European funds. The ERDF funds enabled the redevelopment of an important part of the Monteponi mining compendium, now a destination for tourists and visitors. Pierluigi Carta, mayor of the mining town in those years, experienced these changes at first hand. "The structural funds were certainly important," he says, "in this area they were very important because we were coming out of a crisis dictated first by the closure of the mines and then by the factories in Portovesme. Hence the planning and interventions that, as Carta points out, 'have grounded projects and interventions worth over 70 million euro. Today, Pierluigi Carta is the guide of 'Villaggio Normann', the voluntary organisation that has revived the mining village of Normann, in the nearby municipality of Gonnesa, where an 80-kilometre-long network of footpaths has been created.

Turismo lento nel Sulcis-Iglesiente sui vecchi sentieri dei minatori

The Village, the Way and Development

It is a piece of a larger mosaic in which the Santa Barbara Mining Trail occupies the most important space. It is a 500-kilometre-long mining archaeology trail divided into thirty stages that stretches across south-western Sardinia, amidst territories literally torn apart by old abandoned mines and breathtaking views of sheer cliffs. It was Giampiero Pinna, a mining geologist who passed away in 2022 and founder in the late 1990s of the Parco Geominerario, the institution set up with the aim of protecting and enhancing Sardinia's mining heritage, who devised the project and gave it legs. The Foundation, benefiting from ERDF funds of over three million euro, has reconstructed the routes followed by miners in the early 20th century to reach their place of work on foot, a heavy, poorly paid job with no protection. But still preferable to the countryside, which was particularly stingy in that area.

Il Pan di Zucchero visto da un punto del Cammino di Santa Barbara

The Path is dotted with churches and icons dedicated to St. Barbara, patron saint of miners, and attracts pilgrims and trekking enthusiasts from all over the world, eager to explore the history of mining, with an influx of visitors that really contributes to development, especially in centres that are marginal compared to mass tourist resorts, proposing a slow and responsible tourism, respecting the environment. Job opportunities have arisen and continue to arise thanks to the growth of local activities, in tourist services and hospitality. In 2023, the number of pilgrims registered at the Foundation was 1815, 51% more than in 2022, which in turn had seen a similar growth over the previous year. To these must be added all those who walk the route or parts of it without registering. Today, the Foundation has over two million euro worth of projects underway.

"I'm going home to become an environmental guide"

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In this scenario that opens a new course for the mining legacy, there are also those who have decided to leave a stable and important occupation abroad or in the peninsula to build a new job, in a sort of leap into the void, precisely by taking advantage of the opportunity of the Santa Barbara mining route. Loredana Lai and Francesca Mocco, the former a degree in languages and the latter in political science, left everything to return to Sardinia and reinvent a profession by becoming environmental guides and founding the Janas escursioni brand. "It is a business born from a passion for hiking,' they say, 'and after a course we created the brand to make this area known.

The brakes of bureaucracy

In Fluminimaggiore, despite the renovation work carried out in the early 2000s thanks to the resources of the ERDF, the Su Zurfuru Mining museum, built in the old lead, zinc and fluorite mine located along State Road 126 and close to a stream, is struggling to take off. 'The potential is very high,' emphasises the manager Salvatore Corriga, 'but for the grounding of the projects and thus the relaunch of the site in a second life we still have to wait, and we have to deal with bureaucratic delays.

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