Stories and Hourglasses in Ernst Jünger’s Castle
On a minibus to Wiflingen Castle in Upper Swabia, where I was to meet the venerable writer. The garden, the drawing room, his winter routines: a man who lived through a dramatic century
Thirty years have passed since the day I went to interview Ernst Jünger (1895–1998). At the time, I hadn’t realised what it was that had made that meeting so unforgettable. I was thinking only of how extraordinarily fortunate I was to be able to meet a writer whom, despite certain reservations, I admired, and to hear him speak of figures who had long since passed away.
It was very cold; there were a lot of us on the minibus taking us to Wilflingen, a village in Upper Swabia, to mark his 100th birthday. I remember a television technician wondering why we were wasting so much time going to interview that old man.
I had been struck by the sombre austerity of the von Stauffenbergs’ castle, the only ornamentation on which being their coat of arms: blue arrows on a white background. It was there that the Gestapo had kept under surveillance the family of the heroic general who had attempted to blow up Hitler. Junger, without mentioning his own involvement in the plot that had cost his son his life, recounted with a touch of humour how the castle’s inhabitants had made use of the secret passages to eavesdrop on the investigators’ preparations for the following day’s interrogation, thereby avoiding the death penalty.
In contrast to the castle’s military austerity, the softness of the faded, yellow Theresian-style plasterwork on the 18th-century guest quarters where Junger lived stood out. Speaking of the drawbacks of old age – ‘One shouldn’t live this long!’ – he had confessed that the greatest suffering was seeing his loved ones pass away one after the other. But whilst he spoke to other interviewers about the great questions of history, his wife, Liselotte, had recounted that every winter, when the house was surrounded by a wall of snow, the writer would walk round the house in the snow every day, half-naked, before taking an ice-cold shower.
In addition to the famous beetle room and a perfect Biedermeier sitting room, there was a lounge dominated by a low bookcase filled mainly with the classics, in austere bindings, which stood in contrast to the aged modernity of the large, upholstered chairs in the Novecento style. Next to the portrait of the First World War flying ace, the ‘Red Baron’, Wenzel von Richthofen, stood his collection of hourglasses. Pointing to one, he remarked: ‘This must have belonged to a courtesan, because the time is very short!’

