Viewpoint

The style choices and secret addresses of an aesthete, Mary Katrantzou

For the creative director of Bulgari accessories, there are many ways to nourish the artistic soul: from the Baths of Caracalla to the V&A Museum, from a Coldplay live show to a stop in Portofino.

by Roberta Sarugia

Mary Katrantzou, prima direttrice creativa di accessor e pelletteria per Bulgari. ©Matteo Carassale

5' min read

5' min read

DISTINCTIVE SIGNS OF MY STYLE

Anyone who knows me knows that I have a real passion for little black dresses: I wear one almost every day. It is not so much a choice dictated by practical reasons, although there is no doubt that dressing like this is easier and faster. The fact that they help to make me feel comfortable, confident and elegant in a discreet way also has something to do with it. For me, the black dress is a uniform that defines me and, above all, allows my colour sensibility to express itself to the full. Working a lot with colours, I need to wear something minimal and neutral, which helps me to maintain a clean, balanced look.

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Abito in viscosa con stampa ispirata all’arte topiaria, della collezione Cruise della designer (1.190 €, mary katrantzou.com).

MY STYLE ICON

Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Vreeland and Monica Vitti, all women endowed with great charisma and an innate ability to develop very personal and playful looks that perfectly reflected their nature (A Day with Monica Vitti is the new book that collects previously unpublished photographs of the actress taken by Sergio Strizzi, 30 euros, postcart.com).

“Una giornata con Monica Vitti”, di Sergio Strizzi (30 €).

THE VIEW THAT INSPIRES ME

My style has been shaped by different places in Athens, the city where I was born and grew up. Perhaps the sight I consider most powerful at the moment, however, is enjoyed by visiting the Baths of Caracalla, in Rome. They strike me for the grandeur and energy they emanate: for the Calla collection, my debut as creative director of Bulgari accessories and leather goods, I was inspired by the majesty of the mosaics of that place - the restoration of which the maison financed in 2015 (until 12/1 the Baths of Caracalla are hosting the exhibition Narciso. La fotografia allo Specchio, with shots by 35 masters of the lens, from Robert Capa to Helmut Newton, soprintendenzaspecialeroma.it).

Scorcio delle Terme di Caracalla: fino al 12/1 ospitano la mostra fotografica “Narciso. La fotografia allo Specchio”. ©F.Caricchia per SSABAP

AN OBJECT I WOULD NEVER SEPARATE FROM.

Photographs of my family, especially my son Michael. Like everyone else, I have a mobile phone full of pictures, but looking at the old-fashioned printed ones gives me much more satisfaction.

An UNFORGETTABLE PLACE WHERE I HAVE TRAVELED RECENTLY.

I have visited India several times and have always been fascinated by it. From Mumbai to Jaipur, it is a land with a strong spiritual connotation, it helps to purify the soul and, at the same time, with its extraordinary variety of colours and textures, is a strong inspiration for those, like me, who do creative work (Rambagh Palace in Jaipur, rooms from 500 euros per night, lartisien.com).

Il palazzo Hawa Mahal, a Jaipur.

LAST RESTAURANT THAT IMPRESSED ME

I discovered it last summer, it is called Puny and it is located in the little square in Portofino: the location is enchanting and they prepare spectacular pasta dishes. Eating there was the last moment of my holiday before returning to everyday reality (ristorantepunyportofino.com).

LAST OBJECT I PURCHASED AND LOVED .

I can only think of purchases made for my son, from the small inflatable pool to the steamer. The last item I have loved is actually a gift from Bulgari, a Tubogas Serpents watch, which was given to me on the occasion of Michael's birth two years ago. Also speaking of gifts, my husband recently gave me a very special one: tickets to the Coldplay concert in Athens; we went with a group of friends and had an unforgettable evening (Serpenti Tubogas watch with 18ct rose gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, opaline silver dial and 18ct rose gold double spiral bracelet, €51,900, bulgari.com; coldplay.com).

Orologio Serpenti Tubogas con cassa in oro rosa 18 ct con diamanti taglio brillante e bracciale a doppia spirale in oro rosa 18 ct, BULGARI (51.900 €).

And THE NEXT ONE I'M TAKING

I dream of hosting in my home a piece designed by Claude Lalanne who, together with her husband François-Xavier, formed a brilliant pair of sculptors and designers. Among the many creations that I find impressive, I fell in love with the Trône de Pauline and the Ginkgo Chairs, with their pleasantly surreal appearance, characterised by a perfect balance between the artistic element and the functional component (Ginkgo Chair, auctioned at Sotheby's last December, sold for $88,900, kasmingallery.com/artists/330-les-lalanne).

Ginkgo Chair (1996/2018), di Claude Lalanne. © Artist Rights Society (ARS), New York, NY / ADAGP, Paris, France. Courtesy of Kasmin, New York.

LAST MUSIC I DOWNLOADED.

The Rise and Fall of a Midwest Princess, an album by young American singer-songwriter Chappell Roan. I also find Adele and Céline Dion fantastic: the Canadian singer's performance at the opening ceremony of the Olympics in Paris will go down in history (open.spotify.com; on 23 November at the Colosseum of Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, the last concert of the residency show Weekends with Adele is staged, caesars.com/caesars-palace/shows).

The book on my bedside table .

These days, accompanying me on my way to rest, there is not a book, but a podcast that I am passionate about, it is called Firsts by Deena, and it is hosted by my dear friend Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz - entrepreneur, former editor-in-chief of Vogue Arabia and co-founder of the D'NA concept store. In each episode, Deena leads conversations on fashion, art and culture with contributions from special guests, from photographer Albert Watson to Beka Gvishiani (open.spotify.com; deenathe1st.com/podcast).

my favourite beauty products .

Tinted sunscreens: since I moved back to Athens I have got into the habit of always protecting my face from UV rays, even in winter. Among the brands I love are Caudalíe, SkinCeuticals, Obagi and Jordan Samuel Skin (Vinocrush tinted cream by Caudelíe, 30 ml, 31,90 euro, it.caudalie.com; skinceuticals.it; obagi.com; jordansamuel skin.com).

Crema colorata Vinocrush, CAUDALÍE (30 ml, 31,90 €);

LAST ADDED TO THE GUARDAROBE .

A vintage jacket in pink wool by Chanel from the 1990s: a garment that will never go out of fashion, refined and versatile (chanel.co.uk).

If I HAD TO LIMIT MY SHOPPING TO A CITY AREA, I WOULD CHOOSE

In the last period, I mostly shopped online. I lived in London for twenty years, and when I was there, I liked to shop for new, small boutiques, but I didn't have a single reference area. In Rome, on the other hand, one in all is Via Condotti, at the foot of the Spanish Steps, overlooking the wonderful Piazza di Spagna.

The ARTIST I WOULD COLLECT IF I COULD .

A portrait of Andy Warhol would be wonderful! I also greatly admire sculptors, Constantin Brâncuși above all. His Muse endormie in bronze literally leaves me speechless for the absolute level of modernity, abstraction and purity (at the Gallerie d'Italia in Naples, until 16/2, the exhibition Andy Warhol. Triple Elvis, gallerieditalia.com; a version of La Muse endormie is on display in Paris, in the Atelier Brancusi, adjacent to the Centre Pompidou, centrepompidou.fr).

MUSEUM I FIND MOST INTERESTING

For those who love the world of fashion, I believe that the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London remain unrivalled. When I was a student, I went to visit their archives and got endless inspiration. Who could have imagined, then, that some of my work would become part of the permanent collections of the Met and the V&A: it is an indescribable feeling of pride (from 17/11, the Met hosts the exhibition Flight into Egypt: Black Artists and Ancient Egypt, 1876-Now, metmuseum.org; until 5/5, at the V&A Museum you can visit the exhibition The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence, vam.ac.uk).

Acquerello del 1621 esposto alla mostra “The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence”, al V&A Museum di Londra fino al 5/5. ©Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The ARTISTIC PROJECT NOT TO BE MISSED

It is an experience I have not yet had: I deeply desire to attend a performance by Marina Abramović (Marina Abramović, between breath and fire is the exhibition at gres art 671 in Bergamo until 16/2, gresart671.org).

“Dozing Consciousness” (1997/2002), di Marina Abramović. ©Marina Abramovic, Courtesy of Lisson Gallery and the Marina Abramovic Archives

If I DID NOT DO WHAT I DO I WOULD LIKE TO BE .

Before devoting myself to fashion, I studied architecture: if life had not changed the direction of my path, I would be an architect today. Moreover, there are close similarities between that profession and mine, especially with regard to the need to master measurements and proportions.

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