Economics and Finance

Textile-fashion, Smi confirms slowdown. In 9 months expected -6.2%

According to the economic survey in Q1, the majority of operators (70%) believe that a recovery in the sector will not take place before early 2025

AI INDUSTRIA TESSILE FILATI  TESSUTI FILO FILI COTONE TESSUTO OPERAIA OPERAIE MANUFATTURIERA MANUFATTURIERE

3' min read

3' min read

The made-in-Italy fashion textile industry - which employs about 300 thousand people - closed the first half of 2024 with a decided slowdown: 3 out of 4 companies recorded a drop in turnover compared to the same period last year, with a significant share (24%) of companies recording -20% and more. This is confirmed by the economic survey conducted by the Economic and Statistical Studies Office of Sistema Moda Italia on textile-clothing companies.

Recourse to shock absorbers is growing

The survey - conducted at the beginning of July on a sample of mainly small companies - paints a critical picture of the sector's performance in the first half of 2024. With employment levels substantially stable (54%) and in some cases even increasing (26%), one in four entrepreneurs admitted to having resorted to social shock absorbers in the second quarter, in order to buffer the situation. Access to shock absorbers in more than half of the cases was massive: in 22% of the cases over 80% of the workers were affected and in a further 26% between 60% and 80%. The percentage will rise again in Q3 when 33% of enterprises, one in three, will apply for shock absorbers.

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One in 3 entrepreneurs expect a worsening in the second half of the year

Entrepreneurs in the sector approach the second half of the year with great caution: 33%, i.e. one in three, expect a further deterioration in market conditions. Looking at the July-September period in particular, 20% ri􀆟ene expect sales to remain at the same level as in 2023, while 61% fear a drop in their turnover compared to then (for 11% of ques􀆟 the expected drop is more than -20%).

According to Smi's estimate, therefore, the first nine months of 2024 will end with a decline in total industry turnover of around -6.2 per cent.

Entrepreneurs' expectations for the whole of 2024 remain less than optimistic. 64% expect the year to end below 2023 levels, while only 11% expect an improvement. The majority of operators (70%) believe that a recovery in the sector will not take place until early 2025.

The need for ad hoc measures to stimulate recovery

To cope with this scenario, according to Smi, urgent measures will be needed to support companies and encourage a recovery of the sector.

"The historical period we are going through places the Textile & Fashion industry in front of growing challenges: it is necessary to give a new impulse to the entire production chain through ad hoc measures, strengthening strategic relations with Europe and reference markets,' explained Sergio Tamborini, president of Sistema Moda Italia, in a note. 'The centrality of the fashion system and its being the emblem of Made in Italy make it urgent to adopt a strategic plan to protect creative capital, human capital, and industrial technological capabilities. This must also take place through the acceleration of regulations that are fundamental for the creation of a new production and sustainable model for the industry'.

These will most likely include the decree of the Ministry of the Environment that should concretely regulate the extended producer responsibility on which Italy would have wanted to and could have been at the forefront, but which the absence of an 'operational' regulation has blocked for almost two years. 1 January 2025, the date on which the EPR will be in force throughout Europe as a result of Directive (EU) 2018/851, is approaching.

These and other topics will be on the table on 6 August at the summer meeting of the Fashion Table at Mimit.

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