Austria

Advent brings magic to the villages of Tyrol

Travelling along the Länder mountain road to the Vorarlberg border (also by train), stops in Kitzbühel, Seefeld, Innsbruck and Lech Zürs

Innsbruck. (Innsbruck Tourism)

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

7' min read

Translated by AI
Versione italiana

Pine branch garlands on houses take the place occupied in fine weather by red geraniums; squares are lit up by beautiful Christmas trees and shops compete to display straw stars, wood-carved angels, golden pine cones and flower arrangements in their windows. Telling us that we are in the season of Advent is the scent of cinnamon and cloves that flood the narrow streets of the small towns of the Austrian Tyrol, an area that is worth a visit all year round but becomes magical in the run-up to Christmas. When the fairy-tale wooden stalls of the markets open their doors, the scent of mulled wine and kiachl wafts through the air and the contemplative sounds of brass ensembles echo through the alleyways. During the four weeks leading up to Christmas, the Austrians remain faithful to their old traditions: from the candles that light up the houses to the children who in amazement open a window in their Advent calendar every day to the Krampus races that invade the streets on St Nicholas Day.

The itinerary

Having reached little Kufstain from Italy (also by train), you can embark on an itinerary of about 3 hours to visit some of Austria's most beautiful markets, passing through Kiztbuel, Seefeld, arriving in the far west of the Tyrol in the beautiful Lech Zurs to return towards Innsbbruck and Italy, along the mountain road of the Tyrolean Länder and up to the border with Vorarlberg through valleys and green pastures, where even in summer it is a spectacle to see the lakes mirroring the peaks of some of Austria's most beautiful peaks, which are over 3.000 metres. Thus, between one market and another, one discovers castles and fortresses, iconic ski slopes, the world of Swarovski crystal and Austrian handicrafts.

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Kufstein

From Kufstein to Kiztbuel

Imposing and majestic, the Kufstein Fortress turns into a festive place during the Advent season, where the Christmas atmosphere can be experienced in an ancient and fascinating place. To enter the fortress is to enter history and culture: Europe's largest open-air organ is also located here, which plays its 4,948 pipes daily at noon. This mighty fortress has watched over the city from a rocky outcrop since the 13th century: its past is a kaleidoscope of battles and wars, reprisals and events that fill the books. The fortress can be accessed by a modern panoramic glass funicular railway that takes you directly to the fortified complex, or you can walk up the impressive staircase partially carved into the rock and covered by a wooden roof.

Kiztbuel.

And so the magic begins: decorations and lights shroud the majestic building in joy, the scent of Christmas spreads everywhere, and, between courtyards, stairways and (once secret) passages, bells and Christmas melodies ring out.The Kufstein Fortress Market differs from other classic markets in the place where the stalls are located: the casemates, i.e. the part of the fortress perimeter where cannons and heavy artillery were once housed. During Advent, they are dotted with dozens of colourful, illuminated stalls displaying precious handmade objects by skilled craftsmen. Decorations and lights envelop the majestic building, the scents of Christmas waft through courtyards, stairways and (once secret) passages where Christmas melodies resound.

Kiztbuel. (©Medialounge)

From Kitzbühel to Seefeld

The old houses and farmsteads bathed in the glistening whiteness of the high snow as if it were a silent, heavy mass under which the roofs seem to give way, around slopes framed by deep blue skies and in the background the 'Wilder Kaiser'. Young people in old-fashioned clothes and equipment watching the athlete fly down the legendary 'Streif' slope remind us what skiing was like in the early 1900s. There is no more evocative portrait of Kitzbuel and its mountains than that which appears in the works of Alfons Walde (the beautiful museum in the town centre is dedicated to him). Long considered only as the painter of the mountains, actually influenced by the Viennese Secession, Klimt and Expressionism, with a very personal style he forged the image of holidays in Kitzbühel with his brush.

Lech.

The pearl of the Austrian Tyrol, known, now as then, for its social life, glamour, and wooden chalets which, although renovated, retain that unparalleled charm of Alpine houses made of natural materials. In January (19/25) during the World Cup races, stars and VIPs from all over the world attend the Hahnenkamm races, the biggest winter social event in Austria, second only to the Vienna Opera Ball. It is races like the one on the Streif (a slope known to be one of the most difficult in the world, with gradients of up to 85%), that have helped to create the myth of Kitzbühel since 1931. The town has a rich history and cultural traditions worth discovering. The old town centre surrounded by ancient walls, characterised by cobbled streets, medieval houses with colourful walls and Gothic churches, hosts the Advent market during these weeks. In the centre, strolling and climbing a beautiful flight of steps, one arrives at the Liebfrauenkirche, a church surrounded by an infinity of tombstones, like a garden, and one more beautiful than the other. There is no shortage of luxury hotels (from the historic Relais & Chateau Hotel Tennerhof in typical Tyrolean style, with historic furniture and precious antiques from the family collection, to the Kizhof, a design hotel that combines skiing and fashionable atmospheres) and restaurants that recover ancient traditions such as Das Mocking, where Martin Huber and his sister have focused on their grandmother's recipes, on the art of their father, the well-known butcher Huber, and on the old methods of preserving delicious meat, all strictly zero km, like the vegetables that come from the vegetable garden near the structure. Not to be missed in summer with the beautiful garden and in winter in the typical wooden premises, the Zum Rehkitz (with local delicacies and craft beer, just outside the town) and right in the centre the Das Reisch (excellent fish dishes, including succulent trout). The local mini-market can be discovered at Frauenschuh, a brand founded in 1950 as a leather goods company and now synonymous with elegance and luxury worldwide.

Lech.

Arriving in Seefeld, from the Kurpark, a path of 100,000 lights leads to the centre, the heart of the market, in a fairy-tale atmosphere with stars twinkling in the trees and the casino tower twinkling festively. A special treat for children is the 'Engerlpostamt' angel post office, while the lucky ones can witness the arrival of the Krampus on 6 December, devilish, hirsute figures who, with noise and chains, then give way to the benevolent figure of St Nicholas accompanied by angels and musicians.

The mountains of Lech Zürs

Advent in Lech Zürs brings back the Walser customs, the ancient people who gave life to this beautiful Alpine village in the 14th century before it became Austria's largest ski resort and one of the five best in the world. The techniques of Hannes Schneider, the father of modern skiing, contributed to its fame as early as the 1920s. The famous Arlberg Ski Club was founded in 1901 in St. Christoph, and the first alpine ski course in 1905 in Zürs, until the opening of Austria's first ski school in 1921 in St. Anton. Its founder and director, Hannes Schneider, revolutionised this increasingly popular sport with the 'Arlberg technique' he developed. Famous personalities increased its popularity, such as Diana, Princess of Wales, who was its most famous patron. The pioneering and innovative spirit of the Arlberg was closely linked to sustainability from the very beginning, long before the term was on everyone's lips. The concept, then unique in Europe, of car-free Oberlech caused a sensation in 1997. In recent years, St. Anton, as part of the model region KLAR! Arlberg Stanzertal, has steadily implemented ecology-oriented projects to adapt to climate change, to name but two. The awareness that nature is the greatest treasure and the very foundation of forward-looking, high-quality tourism is deeply rooted in the Arlberg. Among the gifts of nature from which the resort benefits are the abundant snowfalls. With an average of nine metres of fresh snow per year, the region is among the safest in the Alps. This is a fundamental guarantee of pure winter fun on over 300 kilometres of perfectly groomed pistes and over 200 kilometres of magnificent off-piste routes in the Ski Arlberg hinterland. Off the slopes, there is no lack of starred restaurants, luxury boutique hotels, cultural highlights such as the Arlberg Weinberg and the legendary White Ring Race. Lech, with the romantic Zugertal and the sunny mountaintop terrace of Oberlech, has been crowned the 'World Gourmet Village': no fewer than 20 restaurants have received a total of 56 hats, placing Lech Zürs at the absolute top of Austria's Gault&Millau 2025 and no shortage of Michelin stars,

Lech. (Daniel Zangerl)

The Lights of Innsbruck

In the heart of Innsbruck, near the Golden Roof, the traditional market is the realm of craftsmen, while the nearby Kiebachgasse is transformed into a fairytale alley, where giant characters stand out against the backdrop of historic buildings. And then the timeless horse carousel attracts for a heart-stopping ride, and the Jaufenthal Mechanical Crib is not to be missed. Innsbruck is a perfect starting point for various resorts and ski resorts in Tyrol (including the Stubai and Schlik 2000 ski areas, which can also be reached from the city by public transport).

Innsbruck. (Innsbruck Tourism)

The futuristic Nordkette funicular railway designed by Iranian archistar Zaha Hadid, for example, is an experience worth considering: from the valley station near the old town, it takes eight minutes to reach Hungerburg, one of Innsbruck's most popular vantage points. Here you can experience the Advent atmosphere at the Christmas market until 6 January, and from here you can climb further (with a double cable car ride) to the approximately 2,000-metre Seegrube (every first Friday of the month the service runs until 11.30 p.m.) and reach the Hafelekar peak at 2,300 metres, from where you can enjoy a 360-degree view of the entire valley and the Alpine chain. Another experience just outside the city to put on the agenda, using the J line of city buses, is Patscherkofel, the peak at over 2,200 metres on which the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympic Games were held. It is considered the 'home mountain' for the people of Innsbruck and, in addition to the ski resort, it is also home to Austria's highest botanical garden with over 400 plants. We are already on the train home, but in our eyes remains the glow of the light sculptures that immerse the Imperial Gardens in a fairy tale and the feeling of celebration and peace that only certain atmospheres can leave.

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