The beautiful atmospheres of Taormina in the rooms of the Four Seasons

We returned to the Four Seasons in Taormina after two years. Because the first impression of a hotel is important, but the second is a fundamental test. It is true that newly opened hotels have the charm of novelty and enjoy the surprise effect, but it is over the long term that one assesses the evolution of a structure, the atmosphere they have been able to create. More and more so-called super-luxury hotels have bars, restaurants, spas open to the public, but at the same time they are the temporary home of their guests. They must be frequented, but too much, and constantly check the guest list. They must be inclusive, without sacrificing guest privacy. Nothing is taken for granted or easy to manage.

For the Four Seasons, the task is easier, because it is the rebirth of a historic hotel - the San Domenico Palace - that has made Taormina's history, and this new chapter continues its commitment to enhancing the architectural, cultural and tourist heritage it represents. Originally a Dominican convent, the noble order of the church, with courtyards, cells and gardens that demand a guided tour by a historian (ask Margaret, who tells it like the monument it is). 15th-century core onto which are grafted the Art Nouveau elements of the early 20th century. Windows framing an enchanting landscape, from Etna to Messina, glimpses of blue sea and sky, the Roman theatre in the background. Generous spaces, sumptuous floral installations (with the flair of Italy's most famous flower designer Vincenzo Dascanio), a cheerful bustle at mealtimes, the calm of the Sicilian siesta, the elegant evening vibe. The absolute silence, as in the days of the monks, can be found in the rooms. Restful colours, precious materials, light and the same wonderful view guaranteed by the location high up on a cliff.

Inherited from the previous management is chef Massimo Mantarro, unmistakably Sicilian. A correct choice, because traditional cuisine is a guarantee of conquest and recall. Who doesn't fall in love with sweet and sour caponatina or parmigiana. Without distorting the recipes, Chef Mantarro has lightened them, embellished them, enriched them with details. The challenge begins in the morning, with an inviting banquet that confounds the mind with the goodness it displays (it takes up an entire room). Homemade cakes (cassata is never missing), breads from ancient grains, fresh ricotta, hot dishes and a cart serving classic granitas - lemon, almond and coffee - and a basket of cannoli to be filled at the moment. The menu at Bistrò Rosso is an alternation of classics and salads, with tomatoes that taste like tomatoes. Spaghetti with squid ink and marinated anchovies with citrus fruits are ordered at the Anciovi restaurant by the pool, while the gourmet Principe Cerami, with a Michelin star confirmed since 2008, is for the evening. And again, even in the rigour of haute cuisine, the chef does not betray his Sicily evoked in every dish, as in the cheese and oil trolley, of which the region is now a champion. Special mention: the spa is an oasis in itself, with a gym and indoor pool. But the miracle happens in the cabin, when Paolo takes care of his guest.