The beauty industry is rediscovering authenticity and imperfection

Fashion is once again speaking to people, rather than to an abstract ideal of perfection. On the catwalks of the Spring/Summer 2027 Milan Fashion Week, which has just come to a close, women and men of different ages took to the catwalk, alongside older models, non-binary people, faces marked by the passage of time, and a diverse range of bodies and identities. From Gucci to Prada, from Taller Marmo to Vivetta, the presence of people in their 50s and 60s did not seem merely a casting choice, but a sign of a deeper shift: beauty no longer necessarily equates with youth, smooth skin or the absence of imperfections; it is part of an identity waiting to be told. ‘The central theme is authenticity: the risk of extreme perfectionism is that it produces artificial faces, all looking the same,’ says Michele Magnani, Senior Global Make-up Artist for MAC Cosmetics. ‘A flaw can also be a distinctive feature of a person and can become an asset. The face is like a sort of map of our experience: a face carries with it what we have lived through – the pain, the joy, the experiences accumulated over the years.’ And this is where Anna Magnani’s thoughts on wrinkles earned over time come back into play: not necessarily something to be erased, but a part of oneself to be cherished. “And this is also reflected in this season’s beauty trends: increasingly natural-looking skin, less-manicured eyebrows, and hair left free to express its own texture. Make-up alternates between a near-absence of make-up and highly individual touches – an expressive look featuring graphic eyeliner, glitter and coral-red lipsticks.”

The leather: minimalist, refined, yet almost invisible

The complexion looks even more natural than in previous seasons. The base is there, but it must almost disappear: no heavy coverage, no obvious layers. The aim is a perfected yet translucent complexion, through which the skin’s texture and the face’s individual features remain visible. This is a trend embraced by Alberta Ferretti, where the make-up is practically invisible. The skin is moisturised, with a healthy bronzed effect and a blush that mimics a sun-kissed glow. At Prada, the complexion is natural and soft-matt, with subtle blush and barely-there brick-pink lips. A very clean-cut look from Ferragamo, with an even complexion, natural eyebrows and very few graphic elements. At Etro, the make-up remains delicate but plays on the golden tones of sunset, so it isn’t completely ‘nude’: it introduces light and colour without becoming heavy-handed. The natural look takes on a more sensual edge at Roberto Cavalli, where make-up artist Yadim Carranza for Kiko Milano has created a luminous, dewy complexion, with strategic highlights and a pink blush, for a fresh, radiant and sophisticated effect. The complexion is very clean at Dolce&Gabbana, whilst at Dhruv Kapoor it takes on a glowing, super-natural and hydrated look, achieved using minimal amounts of MAC Cosmetics’ Studio Radiance Tint Stick.

Blush or no blush? Between rosy cheeks and visible freckles

Blush seems to be moving in two opposite directions. On the one hand, it is becoming lighter until it almost disappears, making way for more subtle contouring techniques that create a lifting effect; on the other, it is making a comeback as a natural flush – ‘boyfriend blush’ – applied to mimic the effect of the sun and movement. Max Mara, whose make-up was created by Lisa Butler and Maurizio Calabrò for NARS, brought the 1950s back to the catwalk, but without any nostalgia. The complexion is fresh and clean, yet the face is enhanced by ‘boyfriend blush’. A very pronounced blush was spotted at THE ATTICO, a nod to nightlife, the 1980s and the club kids of the 1990s. Make-up artist Inge Grognard, working for Missoni, applied a very realistic burgundy blush to the cheeks and the bridge of the nose, as if it were a sun-kissed flush. Backstage, the models’ natural freckles were not covered up; on the contrary, they were highlighted and, in some cases, even recreated to accentuate the effect of authentic, minimally made-up skin. The same happened at New York Fashion Week SS 2027: at Cult Gaia, some models walked the catwalk with artificially recreated freckles to accentuate the effect of natural skin.