Trend

Collagen, the invisible pillar of youth

by Monica Melotti

Visuel

4' min read

4' min read

In recent years, one word has taken centre stage in the world of beauty and aesthetic medicine: collagen. It is not a passing trend, but one of the biological keys to really understanding what happens to our skin with the passage of time. "Collagen is the protein that gives structure to the skin: it makes it elastic, toned, resistant," explains Maria Gabriella Di Russo, hydrologist and aesthetic doctor with offices in Milan and Formia. 'It works in synergy with elastin to ensure that the skin always returns to its shape, even after a smile, a grimace or a change in temperature. And it has another superpower: it retains water in the tissues, helping to keep the face hydrated and radiant'. The problem? That already around the age of 25-30, collagen production starts to slow down. Slowly, but steadily. And it is from there that wrinkles, loss of volume and sagging start to appear. Smoking, pollution, UV radiation and unhealthy lifestyles also make the situation worse. That is why supporting collagen is not just a beauty strategy, but a true investment in time..

Il collagene, il pilastro invisibile della giovinezza

Photogallery11 foto

Technologies that make the difference

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Aesthetic medicine has made great strides: there are now soft, non-invasive treatments that can stimulate collagen in depth and visibly improve the skin. "Among the most effective PRX-T33, for example, is an intelligent peeling that renews the skin in depth without exfoliating it on the surface," explains the expert. "Carboxytherapy, on the other hand, uses microinjections of carbon dioxide to reactivate microcirculation and restore tissue tone. Then there is skin redensification, based on light hyaluronic acid, which is perfect for strengthening the dermis and restoring structure to the skin. Microneedling works with micro-needles that stimulate natural regeneration: a real 'workout' for the fibroblasts. And then there are the more hi-tech technologies, such as fractional non-ablative lasers, which heat the dermis without affecting the surface, and focused ultrasounds (HIFU), which act in depth with a lifting and firming effect. They are ideal for those who dream of firmer, more elastic skin, who want to reduce wrinkles and keep the signs of ageing at bay. The advantage? They are customisable treatments, also suitable for young skins who want to play it by ear".

Drinking collagen: does it really work?

The success of oral collagen supplements is there for all to see. But the question remains: are they really effective? "Oral collagen supplements offer benefits for the skin, joints and healthy connective tissues, but not all supplements are equal and not all studies show the same efficacy,' Di Russo continues. 'A good product should contain hydrolysed collagen, which is easily absorbed, and preferably be combined with synergistic actives such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid and magnesium. The liquid form is also important: drinkable supplements are better absorbed than capsules and powders'. Origin is another key factor; it is best to choose marine or animal collagen from certified sources and always consult a doctor before starting a supplement.

Smart cosmetics for targeted skincare.

Stimulating collagen before the signs of ageing are visible is now a winning strategy. 'Production starts to decline long before we realise it,' concludes Di Russo. Starting early, with the right tools - nutrition, skincare, soft treatments - means prolonging skin youth in a natural way. And even for those who already notice the first signs of time, it is never too late to intervene. The skin has an amazing memory and capacity to respond, if stimulated in the right way'. Topical cosmetics also play an important role. New-generation skincare products focus on actives indicated to support collagen production. Among the most effective actives are: peptides, which give fibroblasts a boost to produce new collagen and elastin; vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress; hyaluronic acid, which retains moisture and makes the skin more elastic; and niacinamide, which strengthens the skin barrier and improves texture and evenness.

Integrators&Creams

The latest supplement launched on the market, in an even more enhanced liquid formula, is Gold Collagen Forte Ageless, based on hydrolysed marine collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and pro-retinol. Also in a liquid formula comes Biogena Aesthetics Collagen+ Superior, a powder supplement to be dissolved in water with the natural taste of cherry and thyme. The formula, developed according to the highest standards of Austrian nutraceuticals, combines hydrolysed collagen with targeted active ingredients to support radiance, elasticity and skin firmness. UPSA x Nourished - Collagen Skin Lift gummies have just arrived, based on 7 key active ingredients for skin wellbeing: collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid, clinically tested Ovoderm complex, zinc, selenium and vitamin C. On the cosmetic front, Vichy Liftactiv Collagen Specialist 16 - Bonding Serum inspired by aesthetic medicine has just been presented. It contains bio-identical collagen, designed to mimic the structure of the skin's natural collagen and boost its synthesis. From America comes Artistry Skin Nutrition - Defying Serum & Correcting Serum, two high-tech facial serums, both contain marine collagen and are enriched with plant ingredients from sustainable cultivation, for an effective and responsible skincare approach. On the Italian front, Essence Neoxoma by Rejuve, a treatment combining advanced biotechnology and active extracts, enriched with high percentages of plant exosomes to stimulate collagen production and regenerate the skin in depth.

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